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Open Access
Development of Home Furnishing Textile Articles using Digital Embroidery
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2019-12) Sarita Devi; Arya, Nisha
India has a rich heritage of traditional textiles. The Indian traditional embroidery plays an important role in creating new designs in the fashion world. The present study has been conducted to develop digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles using Indian traditional embroidery motifs. The Indian traditional embroideries which can be easily transformed into digital form were explored from secondary sources and five top ranked Indian traditional embroideries i.e. Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kasuti, Applique work and Kutch & Kathiawar were selected for further work. Top preferred three home furnishing textile articles, double bed sheet with pillow covers, roman blind and cushion cover were selected for product development. Top ten preferred motifs, were selected for development of designs as per preferences of experts. One hundred fifty designs (30 for each selected embroidery) were created, using selected motifs with the help of Corel DRAW X3 software. Top ranked three designs from each selected embroidery, design number 1, 8 and 19 from Kashidakari embroidery; design number 1, 4 and 19 from Phulkari embroidery; design number 4, 11 and 26 from Kasuti embroidery; design number 9, 16 and 24 from Appliqué work and design number 9, 16 and 24 from kutchand kathiawar embroidery were selected on the basis of experts’ preferences for preparation of design placements. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabric and base color of fabric for product development. On the basis of experts’ preference, top preferred placements and colour ways were selected for product development. A total of forty five home furnishing textile articles i.e. bed sheet with two pillow covers (3 numbers), roman blind (one number) and set of cushion cover (5 numbers) were developed in five selected embroideries employing selected designs, preferred design placement and color ways on selected golden tint fabric using digital embroidery. The cost of developed double bed sheet with pillow covers ranged from Rs. 4750 to 5000, roman blinds ranged from Rs. 4700 to 4800 and cushion cover (set of five) ranged from Rs. 4200 to 4500. Majority of the consumers rated cost as appropriate for developed double bed sheet with pillow covers and cushion covers whereas rated cost as high for roman blind. All the developed digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, adoption of developed designs from Indian traditional embroidery motifs on home furnishing textile articles using digital embroidery technique is beneficial in preservation of traditional heritage of Indian embroidery and also facilitate faster production in lesser time.
Open Access
Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn
(CCSHAU, 2018) Sharma, Bharti; Yadav, Nirmala
The present study entitled „Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn‟ was conducted. Information on existing status and usage pattern of ten selected shoddy industries located in Panipat, Haryana producing cotton blended shoddy yarn and products were collected using self structured interview schedule and supplemented through observations. Maximum no. of the owners were in the age group of above 50 years, graduate, married and had above 30 years of work experience. The selected shoddy industries were established from 1970 onwards and were registered. Majority of the industries were started with amount Rs. 30 to 50 lac as capital investment. Manpower employed were managers, supervisors and other skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers. Male were employed on managerial & supervisor post. There were more skilled male workers whereas more number of female workers were under the categories of unskilled workers. All of the owners faced the managerial problems like price inflation of raw materials, lack of govt. support and technical problem like electricity. The raw material was procured from the local market, other state of India & other countries in the form of rags. Quality of rags was considered while purchasing raw material as per the requirement of product preparation. Selected industries prepared the cotton blended shoddy yarn in different blends proportions i.e. cotton with acrylic, polyester, nylon and cotton with other fibre in 2.5s, 4s, 6s, 8 & 10s and 2 & 4 ply in available colur. The prepared shoddy yarn and fabric were tested for physical parameters. Numbers of defects were reported i.e. uneven yarn thickness slippage of yarn, use of uneven yarn & mismatch of colour in majority of the industries. The products prepared were rugs, foot mat, khes, stool mat, beach towel in different counts and decorated using frills, got/band. Manufacturing cost and utility of the product considered for calculating the cost in all the industries. The five samples of cotton blended shoddy yarns and their fabric samples of different ply, count and blend proportions procured from the selected shoddy industries to get the preferences for yarn count, ply and blend porportions for product development. The preference was done using preferential choice index by the experts. The selected yarn was cotton with polyester blended (70+30%) in 10s and 2 ply. The fabrics were got prepared in selected colour in one of the selected shoddy industry as per the selected specifications. The prepared fabric was tested for physical parameters. Top five ranked products i.e. curtain, table mat, cushion cover, mudha cover and ladies shirt were selected out of the prepared list of products that can be made using selected yarn. Top three constructional designs for each product were selected out of ten constructional designs for each product developed with the help of CorelDRAW-12 for product development. Top preferred one design for screen printing was selected for each product for placement, out of fifty screen printing developed designs. One best design placement for each selected product designs was selected, out of created forty five placements. Five products in three constructional designs were developed, enriched with selected screen printing designs and selected design placement enhanced by doing running stitch using hand embroidery threads in contrast colour selected colour of screen printing design and base colour of fabric. Hence, total fifteen products were developed. All the developed products were adjudged by the consumers very suitable in terms of texture, design, utility and appearance. On the basis of overall acceptance cushion cover, mudha cover and table mat were highly acceptable. Curtain was acceptable and the ladies shirt was least acceptable by the consumers. A design catalogue was prepared.
Open Access
Diversified use of recycled woollen blended yarn’ submitted for the degree of doctor of philosophy, in the subject of ‘textile and apparel designing
(CCSHAU, 2018) Saini, Neelam; Yadav, Saroj
It is the fact that textile wastes are unavoidable bi-products of any manufacturing process and many textile processes produce it in high volume. Recycling is a key concept of modern waste management which includes pre- processing of waste material into new product in a manner that on the one hand some burden of solid waste on our ecosystem is lessened and on the other sustainability is achieved. To achieve the specific objectives of study, twenty shoddy units of Panipat, Haryana were selected to study the existing status of shoddy industry. Usage practices of recycled blended yarns with respect to manufacturing techniques, production process, procurement and consumption pattern, development of products were recorded. One recycled blended yarns of two different yarn counts was selected as per preferences of experts. An exhaustive list of products including apparel, home textile and utility articles was prepared and top ranked two products were selected. Graphical representations of basic weaves with their derivatives and fancy weaves were created using CorelDRAW-12 software and on the basis of experts preferences top ranked three weaves were selected for creation of possible weave combinations designs. Ten designs of each weave combination were created and out of thirty designs top preferred six designs, two of each weave combination designs were selected for fabric weaving. Twelve fabrics of recycled blended yarns and two of fresh yarns (control) were got woven. The selected recycled yarns and woven fabrics were tested for their physical properties. Twenty four shoddy products and four products of fabric woven using fresh yarns (control) were developed. The developed products were got assessed from consumers on different parameters. Results revealed that all the selected units were ISO 9000 and 14000 certified and had annual turnover of more than ` 25 lacs. Most of the units were on partnership pattern, established with the help of external financial support and running in their own premises. Shoddy yarn manufacturing units procured rags from local (15-30%), domestic (5-15%) and international (50-80%) markets to prepare recycled blended yarn of wool (40-70%), polyester, acrylic (5-40% each) and cotton (5-10%). All the ten shoddy product manufacturing units were preparing blankets, carpets, rugs. Manufactured shoddy yarns and products were mainly marketed in local, domestic and international markets though wholesalers (50-80%), market agents (10-50%) and retailers (10-30%). Recycled blended yarn composed of wool, acrylic and polyester fibres was most preferred (WMS 2.70). The selected blended yarn of 10s (WMS 2.76) and 8s (WMS 2.66) were used for fabric weaving. On the basis of experts‟ preferences gents‟ jacket (WMS 2.60) and ladies‟ kurti (WMS 2.50) were two top preferred products. Thirty weave combination designs were created using right hand twill (WMS 2.80), left hand twill (WMS 2.75) and zig zag twill (WMS 2.69) weave. The selected designs were design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 9 (WMS 2.66) of left hand twill and right hand twill weave combination and design number 3 (WMS 2.86) and 6 (WMS 2.90) of right hand twill and zig zag twill weave combination and design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 5 (WMS 2.83) of zig zag twill and left hand twill weave combination. The physical properties of shoddy fabrics were almost similar to the control fabrics as indicated by CD, F-value, CV and SE. Most preferred constructional designs were design number 7 (WMS 2.53) for gents‟ jacket and design number 10 (WMS 2.57) for ladies‟ kurti. All the developed twenty four shoddy products i.e. 12 gents‟ jacket and 12 ladies‟ kurti were found highly acceptable for all the assessment parameters as indicated by their WMS values above 2.33. The cost of developed gents‟ jacket ranged from `600 to 650 and ` 1117 to 1200 for ladies‟ kurti, which was rated as appropriate by most of the consumers. The products developed from recycled blended yarn were found highly acceptable by the consumers.
Open Access
Application of weed plants extracts on cotton and silk for microbial resistance
(CCSHAU, 2017) Nagpal, Aditi; Punia, Parveen
The present research was planned study to the effect of weed plant extracts and their different standardized combinations on cotton and silk fabrics. To achieve the objectives, in the research plan, two weed plants Achyranthes asper and Boerhaavia diffusa were selected for finish application on cotton and silk fabric. Pre-treatment was given to cotton and silk fabric and finish was applied on both the fabrics in different standardized concentrations of Achyranthes asper and Boerhaavia diffusa extracts with exhaust and pad-dry-cure method. Different standardized concentrations were, for Achyranthes asper extract 3.5 concentration by exhaust method and 3.0 concentration by pad-dry-cure method on cotton fabric whereas in case of silk fabric 3.0 concentration for exhaust method and 2.5 concentration for pad-dry-cure method. For Boerhaavia diffusa extract by exhaust method 3.5 concentration and by pad-dry-cure method 3.0 concentration on cotton fabric whereas results of silk fabric show that 3.0 concentration for exhaust method and 2.5 concentration for pad-dry-cure method. Standardization of concentrations and combinations was done on the basis of minimum bacterial count. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 6% for Achyranthes asper and 8% for Boerhaavia diffusa extract. Pseudomonas sp. bacteria were selected for the present study. To study the effect of weed plant extract and their combinations the finished samples were tested for microbial resistance activity quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing of samples. After assessment of microbial activity against Pseudomonas sp. bacteria percent reduction all finished were found effective against Pseudomonas sp. bacteria after inoculation. The antibacterial treatment with different standardized concentrations of weed plant extracts and their combinations with dilution factors was very effective after 24 hours of inoculation of Pseudomonas sp. bacteria After 24 hours percent bacterial reduction gradually decreased up to 21st days of inoculation. The weed plant extracts and their different combinations finished samples exhibited good wash durability after 24 hours of inoculation in washed samples (5 and 10 washes). After 24 hours it gradually decreased and reduced up to 21st days of inoculation. Thus, after washing there was continuous decrease in the antibacterial activity with an increase in incubation period. It was further concluded that after inoculation of Pseudomonas sp. bacteria microbes do not affect the physical properties of the finished samples heavily. Finished fabrics were tested for physical properties and found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length and elongation increased while tensile strength, moisture regain, wicking, airpermeability and air porosity decreased as compared to control samples. After washing physical properties of finished fabric were investigated and found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length and tensile strength decreased whereas there was increase in air-permeability, air porosity, moisture regain, wicking and elongation as compared to unwashed samples.
Open Access
Microbial resistance of cotton and silk finished with plants extracts
(CCSHAU, 2017) Neeta Singh; Punia, Parveen
The study was planned to assess the efficacy of pomegranate and onion peel extracts on cotton and silk fabrics with respect to microbial resistance. Pomegranate and onion peel extract in two concentrations i.e. 3g/l and 5g/l were prepared. Desized and scoured cotton and degummed silk fabric were finished with these two pure extracts of pomegranate and onion peels and their three standardized combinations by two methods i.e. exhaust and pad dry cure method. SEM analysis was also done for visual analysis of extract absorbed by the fabrics. To study the efficacy of pure pomegranate and onion peel extracts and their combinations, the finished samples were tested for microbial resistance activity quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing. Physical properties were assessed before and after application of finish. Change in physical properties regarding fabric weight, thickness, air permeability, moisture regain, bending length, tensile strength, elongation and wicking property were assessed and effect of washing on all these properties was examined. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 17.27% for pomegranate peel and 7.46 % for onion peel. Three combinations i.e. 50:50, 25:75 and 75:25 were standardized and selected on the basis of their bacterial reduction from five different combinations of pomegranate and onion peel extracts i.e. 50:50, 25:75, 75:25, 35:65 and 65:35 for the research work. Bacterial reduction of cotton and silk finished fabric with pure pomegranate and onion peel extracts and their three combinations by exhaust method were found to be more effective bacterial reduction as compared to pad dry cure method. As the concentration of extracts increased, bacterial reduction of all finished samples also increased. Among all the treatments, cotton and silk fabric finished with combinations of 50:50 was found to be more effective against bacterial reduction as compared to other combinations i.e. 25:75 and 75:25 and pure pomegranate and onion peel extracts. It was 98.58% bacterial reduction in cotton fabric with 5g/l concentration of extract and 98.06 % bacterial reduction in silk fabric with 5g/l concentration. The efficacy of the finish was analyzed and found that cotton and silk fabrics finished with the 50:50 combination of extract of pomegranate and onion peels showed the maximum wash durability up to 5 washing cycle. Bacterial reduction was found to be more in both finished cotton and silk fabric with 50:50 combination of extract in 5g/l concentration after one washing cycle as compared to five wash cycles. The percent change in weight, thickness, bending length and elongation of all finished samples were increased after treatment. The increase in these physical properties of finished samples was found with increase in concentrations of extracts while air-permeability, moisture regain and tensile strength decreased. After washing, weight, thickness, bending length and tensile strength decreased whereas there was increase in air-permeability, moisture regain and elongation in all finished samples. Thus, 50:50 combinations of pomegranate and onion peel extracts with 5 g/l concentration applied by exhaust method exhibited excellent bacterial resistance.
Open Access
Effect of biopolymer treatment on dyeing efficiency of cotton fabric
(CCSHAU, 2017) Verma, Mona; Saroj S. Jeet Singh
Textile dyeing and printing industry is one of the most polluting sectors from an ecological point of view. There is need to approach new strategies, methods, material for dyeing treatment of cotton fabric with natural and synthetic dyes using environment benign route. To achieve the objectives of the study, different biopolymer, natural and synthetic dyes were tried and one of each was selected on the basis of colour properties of dyed fabrics. Standardization of chitosan treatment and dyeing process for onion skin and reactive dye was done on the basis of colour properties i.e. dye absorption colour strength and wash fastness for different concentrations and conditions. It was found that the chitosan treated onion skin dyed fabric showed higher dye absorption (66.17%), colour strength (16.52), wash fastness rating than alum treated dyed fabric (55.98%, 12.21 k/s, 4/5) respectively. Similarly the chitosan treated reactive red dyed fabric showed higher dye absorption (78.90%) colour strength (18.72) and wash fastness rating (4/5) than alkali treated dyed fabric ( 68.36 %, 13.03 k/s, 4) respectively. The less total dissolved solids (TDS) were in the liquor after dyeing chitosan treated fabrics with onion skin dye (618 ppm) and reactive red dye (1019 ppm) than in the dye liquor in which alum treated onion skin dyed fabric (1260 ppm) and alkali treated reactive red dyed fabric (1830 ppm) respectively. The chirosan treated dyed fabric showed higher crease recovery (103.2 degree for onion skin dye and 100 degree for reactive red dye) than alum treated (92.3 degree) and alkali treated dyed (87.90 degree) fabrics. The chitosan treated onion skin dyed fabrics showed increased bacterial resistance against E. coli (97.20 %) and S. aureus (98.03%) bacteria than alum treated dyed fabric (85.57% and 83.91 %) respectively. Likewise the chitosan treated reactive dyed fabric showed higher reduction against E. coli and S. aureus bacteria. The onion skin dye showed the higher UPF value for chitosan treated fabric (84.80) than with alum treated (66.70). The reactive red dye also showed higher UPF value with chitosan pretreatment (32.1) than alkali pretreatment (27.4). Chitosan treated onion skin and reactive red dyed fabrics demonstrated better retention of antibacterial and ultra-violet protection property than alum treated and alkali treated dyed fabrics after 20 washing cycles. Thus it is concluded that chitosan treatment enhanced colour properties without using any harsh chemicals and is capable enough to replace the use of salts and alkali in dyeing with natural and synthetic dye. The chitosan treatment along with onion skin dye imparted the multi-functionality to the cotton fabric in terms excellent protection against UV radiations, antibacterial and crease resistant properties effectively with environmental friendly manner, reduced the pollution load on environment and save resources.
Open Access
Development of mosquito repellent fabrics using plant extracts
(CCSHAU, 2016) Rana, Mamta; Saroj S Jeet Singh
Global warming is the main cause of distribution of mosquitoes and many dreadful diseases are associated with mosquitoes. In recent years, due to aggravation in health related issues, the collaboration between medical personnel and textile chemistry, technologies has led to the evolution of innovative medico-functional applications for textiles. Even after many decades of research and studies, the production of mosquito repellent fabrics is still a challenging subject. To achieve the objectives of the study, cotton and P/C blend fabrics, marigold and nirgundi plant materials having mosquito repellency efficacy, four application techniques i.e. direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination were selected. Extraction was done in methanol to get the extracts. For all techniques, padding bath components were optimized on the basis of bending length and crease recovery angle. Plant extracts were applied on fabrics by pad-dry-cure method. SEM analysis of treated fabrics was done. Efficacy and durability of treatment was assessed by using modified cage method. Preliminary, performance, comfort and other properties were also tested of fabrics. Results interpret that properties of treated fabrics were least affected by all application techniques using both plant extracts but are to acceptable level. Direct application technique has better efficacy after treatment of both plant extracts on both fabrics. Durability was found better with microencapsulation and combination techniques with both plant extracts on both fabrics as compared to treated fabrics.
Open Access
Theme based designing for home furnishings
(CCSHAU, 2014) Ruhil, Anita; Yadav, Nirmal
The present study was conducted on Theme based designing for home furnishings in the department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C college of Home Science, CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar and two cities of Haryana state that is Hisar and Gurgaon were purposively selected. To study the preferences for home furnishings, theme based design line and to get opinion regarding developed products, 100 consumers, 50 experts and 50 consumers as well as 30 experts and 60 consumers were selected to meet out the objectives of the study. Hundred per cent consumers used curtains, cushion covers, pillow covers, bed sheet and towel as home furnishing products. Study revealed that festival, marriage and renovation was the most preferred time for purchasing, friends and relatives home was most informative source regarding product selection, current trend cost and design parameters influenced the purchase of home furnishings as well as retailers followed by shopping malls were most preferred shopping resource by majority of the respondents who also look out for branded product quality. Regarding theme based home furnishings majority of the respondents had no idea. The preferred area for theme based home furnishings were drawing cum lounge area followed by lounge area and drawing room because family members generally relax, socialize in this area and use it for leisure and informal entertainment. Ten theme based design line were created for home furnishings by using different designing software’s in 2D and 3D rendering in virtual design drawing cum lounge area. Themes include Black & white (accented neutral color scheme), contemporary with polka dots, Floral, Natural botanical, Ocean, Silhouette, Sunrise, Traditional, Tribal and Zodiac. On the basis of visualization and to get the desired effect of the theme, different designing techniques like printing, painting, embroidery stitches, embellishment materials and constructional features, were worked out with the experts. Study revealed, the most preferred themes according to consumers and experts were Black & white (accented neutral color scheme) and Floral, which were found eye catching, suitable to home furnishings, have market potential as well as create ambience. The required set of selected home furnishing articles included door curtains (4 pieces), window curtains (3 pieces), window net curtains (2 pieces), cushion covers (10 pieces), carpet, partition curtains (2 pieces), partition net curtains (2 pieces), diwan sheet (1 piece), and bolster covers (2 pieces) . Total 26 numbers of samples were prepared from technical persons. The total cost of whole set of products was calculated which included cost of the fabrics used, dyes, stitching charges, embellishment materials used and screen printing charges. Rs. 5275 for Black and white (accented neutral color scheme) theme Rs. 5720 for floral theme was found appropriate cost by the respondents. Design catalogue was prepared. Fabrics used to prepare samples were found highly suitable. Designing techniques used were found to be as per the design line. Symbolic acceptability of the respondents regarding developed theme based products on various parameters was found acceptable. Appeal of the Black and white theme was perceived attractive and floral theme was perceived eye catchy by most of the respondents. Thus study revealed that theme based home furnishing products is one of the emerging field with huge market potential in the textile industry as most of the consumers were ready to buy the whole set of developed products.
Open Access
Development of Aroma Textiles using Essential Oils
(CCSHAU, 2015) Poonam Kumari; Rose, Neelam M.
The research was planned to study the effect of four essential oils on cotton fabrics applied through four treatment methods i.e. direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination. To achieve the objectives proposed in research plan, out of thirteen, four essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palamarosa and peppermint were selected on the basis of preferences for aroma and therapeutic effects by 25 respondents for application on the selected woven and knitted cotton fabrics. Different treatment variables i.e. padding bath components, material to liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery. In microencapsulation and combination method, in addition to performance properties, presence of microcapsules and aroma durability to washing were also assessed. After application of essential oils using optimized conditions on both the fabrics, Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis and aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying was done. Effect of aroma treatment on change in fabric properties regarding fabric count/stitch density, thickness, weight, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery, bursting strength, air permeability, tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation were examined. Effect of aroma treatment on texture and whiteness was also investigated. Different variables of microencapsulation method for preparation of microcapsule gel i.e. ratio of oil: gum: gelatin 1:2:4 for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil, 1:4:4 for geranium oil, at 50°C temperature, initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0 for geranium, lime and plamarosa oil, 4.0 and 10.0 for peppermint oil were optimized. Proportion of padding bath components were optimized as 50:3:15 microcapsule gel: softener: binder for microencapsulation, 6 percent citric acid for direct method, resin cross-linking agent i.e. BTCA 12 to13 g/l for woven and knitted fabric with proportion of 2 to 4 g/l sodium hypophosphite for resin cross-linking method. At MLR 1:20 with 30 minutes of treatment time, both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils exhibited better performance properties. The drying temperature (80° and 90°C), duration (2, 3 and 4 minutes), curing temperature (110°C) and curing duration (30 and 60 seconds) were selected for treated fabric on the basis of improvement in the performance properties. Maximum aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity was observed in combination method followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct method after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying of aroma treated woven and knitted fabrics. Fabric count (woven), weight and thickness increased in both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils by all the treatment methods. Bending length and flexural rigidity were also found to be increased but at an acceptable level. Stitch density increased in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils by microencapsulation and combination method whereas decreased in direct and resin cross-linking method. Crease recovery of all the treated fabrics decreased when aroma treatment was given by microencapsulation and direct method and increased in resin cross-linking and combination method. Air permeability and tearing strength of the woven and knitted fabric decreased however, tensile strength and elongation decreased in woven and bursting strength decreased in knitted fabric with all the essential oils by all the treatment method but to an acceptable level. Texture of both the fabrics was not affected much. There was not much difference in whiteness of both the fabrics treated with geranium and peppermint oil but samples treated by lime and palmarosa oil give some difference in whiteness as indicated by whiteness index values. It was concluded that all the four essential oils can be effectively used without affecting the comfort and performance of the treated fabric to give aroma treatment by direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination method as per aroma durability requirement of end product.

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