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Open Access
Development of Home Furnishing Textile Articles using Digital Embroidery
(CCSHAU, Hisar, 2019-12) Sarita Devi; Arya, Nisha
India has a rich heritage of traditional textiles. The Indian traditional embroidery plays an important role in creating new designs in the fashion world. The present study has been conducted to develop digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles using Indian traditional embroidery motifs. The Indian traditional embroideries which can be easily transformed into digital form were explored from secondary sources and five top ranked Indian traditional embroideries i.e. Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kasuti, Applique work and Kutch & Kathiawar were selected for further work. Top preferred three home furnishing textile articles, double bed sheet with pillow covers, roman blind and cushion cover were selected for product development. Top ten preferred motifs, were selected for development of designs as per preferences of experts. One hundred fifty designs (30 for each selected embroidery) were created, using selected motifs with the help of Corel DRAW X3 software. Top ranked three designs from each selected embroidery, design number 1, 8 and 19 from Kashidakari embroidery; design number 1, 4 and 19 from Phulkari embroidery; design number 4, 11 and 26 from Kasuti embroidery; design number 9, 16 and 24 from Appliqué work and design number 9, 16 and 24 from kutchand kathiawar embroidery were selected on the basis of experts’ preferences for preparation of design placements. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabric and base color of fabric for product development. On the basis of experts’ preference, top preferred placements and colour ways were selected for product development. A total of forty five home furnishing textile articles i.e. bed sheet with two pillow covers (3 numbers), roman blind (one number) and set of cushion cover (5 numbers) were developed in five selected embroideries employing selected designs, preferred design placement and color ways on selected golden tint fabric using digital embroidery. The cost of developed double bed sheet with pillow covers ranged from Rs. 4750 to 5000, roman blinds ranged from Rs. 4700 to 4800 and cushion cover (set of five) ranged from Rs. 4200 to 4500. Majority of the consumers rated cost as appropriate for developed double bed sheet with pillow covers and cushion covers whereas rated cost as high for roman blind. All the developed digital embroidered home furnishing textile articles were highly acceptable by consumers. Thus, adoption of developed designs from Indian traditional embroidery motifs on home furnishing textile articles using digital embroidery technique is beneficial in preservation of traditional heritage of Indian embroidery and also facilitate faster production in lesser time.
Open Access
Adaptation of Madhubani Motifs for Screen Printing and Hand Embroidery on Stoles
(CCSHAU, 2019) Pooja Rani; Yadav, Saroj
India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and folk art which are very ethnic and simple, and yet colorful and vibrant enough to speak volumes about the rich heritage. Folk art in India apparently has a great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and authenticity. The two most famous folk painting are Warli art of Maharashtra and Madhubani art of Mithila. The present study was conducted on adaptation of Madhubani motifs on stole through screen printing and hand embroidery. The 120 traditional Madhubani motifs were collected from secondary sources like books, journals, magazine and internet etc. and screened for their suitability to stole using screen printing and hand embroidery. The identified motifs were sketched manually and scanned from books, magazines etc. which were recreated and modified in CorelDRAW X5 and Adobe Photoshop to get the required complexity and elegance. The selected motifs were categorized in four categories viz. floral & foliage, geometrical, animal & bird and religious motifs and shown to the thirty experts to sought their preferences for selection of four top preferred motifs i.e. four from each category. Total thirty designs were prepared using selected sixteen motifs and got assessed from thirty experts for selection of five top preferred designs for preparation of design layout on stole. The base colour and fabric for stole were selected as per preferences of experts. Twenty five developed design placements were again shown to the experts and one best design placement of each selected five designs was selected for development of colour ways. Five colour ways for each selected five design placements were prepared and colour way that secured Ist rank was selected for development of stole through using screen printing and hand embroidery technique. The cost of each stole was determined by adding the cost of raw material, screen printing, hand embroidery and finishing charges. The screen printed and hand embroidered stoles were assessed for consumers’ acceptability on different parameters. Out of the one hundred twenty motifs, sixteen motifs selected for design development were motif number 8, 11, 29 and 30 in floral & foliage motifs, motif number 2, 8, 15 and 26 in geometrical motifs category, motif number 1, 18, 19 and 26 in animal & bird motifs category and motif number 2, 13, 28 and 30 in religious motifs category. The five top preferred designs were design number 14, 20, 22, 23 and 29. Preferences of experts for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design number 14 and 20, placement I of design number 22, placement II of design number 23 and placement V of design number 29. Most preferred colour ways for screen printing and hand embroidery as per experts’ choice were colour way I of design number 14 and 22, colour way II of design number 20 and 23 and colour way V of design number 29. Five stoles were developed through screen printing and hand embroidery as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs. All the screen printed and hand embroidered stoles were found very enthralling and accepted by consumers on different assessment parameters. The cost of the stoles was rated appropriate by all the consumers. Thus, traditional Madhubani motifs adapted for development of designs for stole has expanded the design base for textile products and cater to the urge of high-end clients through variety of designs and unique combination of screen printing and hand technique.
Open Access
Antibacterial Finish for Cotton Fabric using Herbal Extract
(CCSHAU, 2019) Yadav, Sharmila; Rose, Neelam M.
The present research was intended to prepare antibacterial herbal extracts for application on cotton fabric. To achieve the objectives projected in research plan, jatamansi rhizome extract was selected for antibacterial treatment to cotton fabric. Desizing and scouring were performed on selected cotton fabric for uniform application of finish.The concentrations and conditions for applying the herbal extracts on the fabrics were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy.The application of finish was performed with exhaust and pad-dry-cure methods using the optimized concentrations and conditions. The efficacy of herbal finish was assessed after 5 and 10 wash cycles in terms of percent reduction in bacterial count. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties. Aqueous extract of plant was selected for application on the cotton fabric on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the i.e. Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria. It was found that yield percentage with repeated maceration (triple percolation) of extract was 13.90 percent for jatamansi rhizome. The optimum variables for antibacterial treatment on the basis of bacterial resistance were9 percent concentration of jatamansi rhizome extract (for both the methods),5 percent concentration of cross linking agent (for both the methods),pH 6 (for both the methods), material to liquor ratio 1:40 for exhaust and 1:20 for pad-dry-cure methods, 60 min at 600Ctreatment time and temperature for exhaust and 30 min at 400C for pad-dry-cure method, 1000C for 5 min drying temperature and time for exhaust and 1200C for 5 min for pad-dry-cure and 1400C for 5 min curing temperature and time. The treated fabrics exhibited 91.31and89.41 percent reduction in the bacterial count of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli after the application of jatamansi herbal extract by exhaust method whereas after the application of jatamansi herbal extract by pad-dry-cure method 95.39and 95.14 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively was observed. After 5 washing cycles, the treated fabrics exhibited 77.45 and 74.86 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively whereas after 10 washing cycles, the reduction in bacterial count was 53.10 and 51.54 percent for S. aureus and E. coli respectively. For pad-dry-cure method, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli of the washed fabric after 5 washing cycles decreased by 79.76 and 76.29 percent respectively and after 10 washing cycles, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli was decreased by 57.34 and 54.67 percent respectively. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery angle and elongation of herbal treated fabric were increased. The herbal treated fabrics exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection i.e. 41.01 by exhaust and 47.10 by pad-dry-cure method. Thus, it is concluded that antibacterial treatment with jatamansi extract imparted multifunctionality to the cotton fabrics it provided very high bacterial resistance properties along with excellent ultraviolet protection and crease resistant properties. Hence, the jatamansi herbal extract is suitable natural antibacterial agent for replacement of synthetic antibacterial agents without harmful effect on the properties of cotton fabric.
Open Access
Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Dyeing of Woolen Fabric With Natural Dye
(CCSHAU, 2019) Sharma, Rubi; Rose, Neelam M.
Environment and ecology occupy a prominent place among the key focal issues faced by the world today. Due to the awareness on environmental impact of polluting nature of textile effluent released by chemical processing of textiles, the pressure is increasing on the textile processing industries to use eco-friendly finishing processes to save environment. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study was planned to assess the effect of different enzyme treatments on dyeing efficiency of wool for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Comparative analysis was done alkali, enzyme and neutral scoured fabrics for selection of the best scouring method for preparation of woolen fabric. One natural dye was selected on the basis of higher percent dye uptake and fastness grades. Out of four enzymes, top ranked two enzymes were selected on the basis of better geomateric and surface properties exhibited by the treated fabrics. Standardization of enzymes treatments for selected two enzymes was done on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness rating for different enzyme concentrations and treatment conditions. The scoured fabric was pretreated with both the selected enzymes and dyed with selected natural dye. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of selected dye, scoured and dyed woolen samples was done. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the enzyme treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the enzyme treated and treated dyed fabrics were also tested. Results revealed that neutral scoured sample showed more increase in fabric count and less reduction in fabric weight and thickness as compared to alkali and enzyme scoured samples, thus neutral method of scouring was selected for preparation of woolen fabric. It was found that percent dye absorption and wash fastness of kachnar(Bauhinia variegata) dye was higher for all the four enzymes as compared to marigold dye, hence kachnar dye was selected for dyeing of woolen fabric. Among all the enzymes, lipase and protease exhibited reduced percent shrinkage and percent weight loss and enhanced gloss of woolen fabric,thus selected for pretreatment of woolen fabric. The optimized parameters for enzyme treatments of scoured woolen fabric were 0.50 percent enzyme concentration, 1:20M:L Ratio, 7.5 pH, 65°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for lipase enzyme. All these treatment variables were same for the protease enzyme except 0.25 percent enzyme concentration. FTIR analysis demonstrated the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to scouring and dyeing treatments. Both the enzyme treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results indicated that between both the enzyme treated dyed fabrics, lipase treated dyed fabric showed maximum decrease in bending length (3.25 cm) and crease recovery angle (132.09) whereas protease treated dyed sample showed maximum increase in tensile strength (23.98 kg)more increase in elongation (28.47%) and wickability (6.18 cm). The lipase treated and kachnardyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (127.79) indicating excellent protection category while in protease treated dyed fabric UPF value was (110.98). The lipase enzyme treated dyed fabrics exhibited bacterial resistance against S. aureus (94.53%) and E. coli (91.40%). Hence it is concluded that enzyme treatments enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the woolen fabric with better colour fastness properties. The enzyme pretreatment and kachnar dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of woolen fabric with excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Thus the enzymes are suitable replacement materials for woolen fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.
Open Access
Antibacterial finish on cotton using Giloy extract
(CCSHAU, 2019) Kumari Medha; Arya, Nisha
The present study was intended to apply antibacterial finish on cotton fabric by using Giloy stem extract. To achieve the objectives projected in the research design, Giloy stem extract was selected for giving finishing treatment to cotton fabric. Pretreatment was given to cotton fabric prior to the application of finish using standardized concentration of Giloy stem extract with exhaust and pad dry cure methods. Giloy stem were extracted by cold aqueous maceration and soxhlet evaporation. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 18.2 per cent after 36 hours for Giloy stems. Bacteria (Bacillus spp. and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) were selected for the present study. The antibacterial activity of the extract was tested using agar well diffusion method. It was observed that the extract possessed antibacterial activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, but had no resistance against Bacillus spp. Hence, Pseudomonas aeruginosa was selected for further research. To study the efficacy of Giloy stem extract on cotton fabric, finished samples were tested for microbial resistance quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing the samples (five wash cycles). The antibacterial finish applied with Giloy stem extract by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, was highly effective after 24 hours of inoculation against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. After 24 hours, antibacterial resistance gradually decreased and after 96 hours it reduced to 88.55 per cent and 89.33 per cent in cotton fabric sample finished by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. The cotton fabric sample finished with Giloy stem extract by exhaust and pad dry cure methods were analyzed for their bacterial resistance after five wash cycles. After 24 hours, the resistance gradually decreased and after 96 hours, it reduces to 87.44 per cent and 88.55 per cent by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. Thus, there was continuous decrease in antibacterial activity with increase in incubation period after washing but even then the finish was actively retained in washed samples after 96 hours. It was further concluded that after inoculation of Pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria, microbes did not alter the physical properties of the finished samples heavily. Finished fabric was analyzed for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bulk and elongation of fabric were increased while fabric count, tensile strength, bending length, flexural rigidity, air permeability and moisture regain were decreased. After washing, physical properties of finished fabric were again investigated and it was found that fabric count, weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity and tensile strength of Giloy stem extract finished sample decreased while elongation, air permeability and moisture regain increased. Conclusively, Giloy stem extract was observed as an efficient natural source for imparting antibacterial finish on textiles.
Open Access
Development of ready-to-use yokes through digital embroidery
(CCSHAU, 2018) Parmila; Yadav, Nirmal
Designing textiles and apparel is an ancient craft of India which is one of the most demanding fields as it is full of scope for creativity. Designing includes new and existing techniques for applications of designs on textile items depending upon their end uses. In the garments various patterns are added to enhance the beauty of garments. Patterns may be embroidery, painting, tie & dye, finishes, setting of seams and addition of yoke in garment. A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders. Thus the present study was conducted to develop ready-to-use yokes using digital embroidery technique. The 150 cutwork motifs were collected from secondary sources and screened for their suitability to ready-to-use yokes as well as digital embroidery. The screened motifs were categorized in two categories viz. geometrical and floral motifs. The motifs were shown to the thirty experts to seek their preferences for selection of one third top preferred motifs from each category. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabrics and base colour of fabric for ready-to-use yokes. A total of forty five designs were developed using combination of two to four motifs/ parts of motifs and a single motif from one category or combining both the categories with their compatibility and harmony of selected thirty motifs with the help of CorelDRAW software. Five top raked designs were selected for placements. Created fifteen design placements were again shown to the experts and one preferred placement of each selected five designs was selected for product development. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were simulated and colour way that secured first rank was selected for digital embroidery. The selected five designs were transformed into digital form in embroidery software by assigning design size, stitch type, stitch length and stitch density to different parts of the design. Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery and cost of each ready-to-use yokes was calculated. The developed ready-to-use yokes were assessed on different parameters. Out of 90 screened motifs, thirty motifs selected for design development were motif number 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29, 33, 35 and 37 in geometrical category and motif number 6, 12, 14, 17, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 32, 40, 41, 43 and 44 in floral category of motifs. The top preferred five designs i.e. design number 4, 8, 25, 29 and 43 were selected for creation of design placements. The most preferred placement of selected five designs were placement II of design number 4 and 8, placement III of design number 25 and 29 and placement I of design number 43. The most preferred colour ways for digital embroidery on ready-to-use yokes were analogus in design number 4, complementary in design number 8 and 25, complementary triad in design number 29 and rectangular tetrad in design number 43.Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery technique using the most preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs on white cotton fabric using embroidery threads. All the developed ready-to-use yokes were found very appealing and highly accepted by consumers on all the parameters of assessment regarding suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development for ready-to-use yokes using cutwork motifs. The cost of the digital embroidered ready-to-use yokes was rated appropriate by majority of the consumers. Thus cutwork motifs adapted for designing ready-to-use yokes with the help of CAD/CAM technology and using digital embroidery technique enhance the range of the designing and productivity.
Open Access
Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn
(CCSHAU, 2018) Sharma, Bharti; Yadav, Nirmala
The present study entitled „Diversified use of cotton blended shoddy yarn‟ was conducted. Information on existing status and usage pattern of ten selected shoddy industries located in Panipat, Haryana producing cotton blended shoddy yarn and products were collected using self structured interview schedule and supplemented through observations. Maximum no. of the owners were in the age group of above 50 years, graduate, married and had above 30 years of work experience. The selected shoddy industries were established from 1970 onwards and were registered. Majority of the industries were started with amount Rs. 30 to 50 lac as capital investment. Manpower employed were managers, supervisors and other skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled workers. Male were employed on managerial & supervisor post. There were more skilled male workers whereas more number of female workers were under the categories of unskilled workers. All of the owners faced the managerial problems like price inflation of raw materials, lack of govt. support and technical problem like electricity. The raw material was procured from the local market, other state of India & other countries in the form of rags. Quality of rags was considered while purchasing raw material as per the requirement of product preparation. Selected industries prepared the cotton blended shoddy yarn in different blends proportions i.e. cotton with acrylic, polyester, nylon and cotton with other fibre in 2.5s, 4s, 6s, 8 & 10s and 2 & 4 ply in available colur. The prepared shoddy yarn and fabric were tested for physical parameters. Numbers of defects were reported i.e. uneven yarn thickness slippage of yarn, use of uneven yarn & mismatch of colour in majority of the industries. The products prepared were rugs, foot mat, khes, stool mat, beach towel in different counts and decorated using frills, got/band. Manufacturing cost and utility of the product considered for calculating the cost in all the industries. The five samples of cotton blended shoddy yarns and their fabric samples of different ply, count and blend proportions procured from the selected shoddy industries to get the preferences for yarn count, ply and blend porportions for product development. The preference was done using preferential choice index by the experts. The selected yarn was cotton with polyester blended (70+30%) in 10s and 2 ply. The fabrics were got prepared in selected colour in one of the selected shoddy industry as per the selected specifications. The prepared fabric was tested for physical parameters. Top five ranked products i.e. curtain, table mat, cushion cover, mudha cover and ladies shirt were selected out of the prepared list of products that can be made using selected yarn. Top three constructional designs for each product were selected out of ten constructional designs for each product developed with the help of CorelDRAW-12 for product development. Top preferred one design for screen printing was selected for each product for placement, out of fifty screen printing developed designs. One best design placement for each selected product designs was selected, out of created forty five placements. Five products in three constructional designs were developed, enriched with selected screen printing designs and selected design placement enhanced by doing running stitch using hand embroidery threads in contrast colour selected colour of screen printing design and base colour of fabric. Hence, total fifteen products were developed. All the developed products were adjudged by the consumers very suitable in terms of texture, design, utility and appearance. On the basis of overall acceptance cushion cover, mudha cover and table mat were highly acceptable. Curtain was acceptable and the ladies shirt was least acceptable by the consumers. A design catalogue was prepared.
Open Access
Diversified use of recycled woollen blended yarn’ submitted for the degree of doctor of philosophy, in the subject of ‘textile and apparel designing
(CCSHAU, 2018) Saini, Neelam; Yadav, Saroj
It is the fact that textile wastes are unavoidable bi-products of any manufacturing process and many textile processes produce it in high volume. Recycling is a key concept of modern waste management which includes pre- processing of waste material into new product in a manner that on the one hand some burden of solid waste on our ecosystem is lessened and on the other sustainability is achieved. To achieve the specific objectives of study, twenty shoddy units of Panipat, Haryana were selected to study the existing status of shoddy industry. Usage practices of recycled blended yarns with respect to manufacturing techniques, production process, procurement and consumption pattern, development of products were recorded. One recycled blended yarns of two different yarn counts was selected as per preferences of experts. An exhaustive list of products including apparel, home textile and utility articles was prepared and top ranked two products were selected. Graphical representations of basic weaves with their derivatives and fancy weaves were created using CorelDRAW-12 software and on the basis of experts preferences top ranked three weaves were selected for creation of possible weave combinations designs. Ten designs of each weave combination were created and out of thirty designs top preferred six designs, two of each weave combination designs were selected for fabric weaving. Twelve fabrics of recycled blended yarns and two of fresh yarns (control) were got woven. The selected recycled yarns and woven fabrics were tested for their physical properties. Twenty four shoddy products and four products of fabric woven using fresh yarns (control) were developed. The developed products were got assessed from consumers on different parameters. Results revealed that all the selected units were ISO 9000 and 14000 certified and had annual turnover of more than ` 25 lacs. Most of the units were on partnership pattern, established with the help of external financial support and running in their own premises. Shoddy yarn manufacturing units procured rags from local (15-30%), domestic (5-15%) and international (50-80%) markets to prepare recycled blended yarn of wool (40-70%), polyester, acrylic (5-40% each) and cotton (5-10%). All the ten shoddy product manufacturing units were preparing blankets, carpets, rugs. Manufactured shoddy yarns and products were mainly marketed in local, domestic and international markets though wholesalers (50-80%), market agents (10-50%) and retailers (10-30%). Recycled blended yarn composed of wool, acrylic and polyester fibres was most preferred (WMS 2.70). The selected blended yarn of 10s (WMS 2.76) and 8s (WMS 2.66) were used for fabric weaving. On the basis of experts‟ preferences gents‟ jacket (WMS 2.60) and ladies‟ kurti (WMS 2.50) were two top preferred products. Thirty weave combination designs were created using right hand twill (WMS 2.80), left hand twill (WMS 2.75) and zig zag twill (WMS 2.69) weave. The selected designs were design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 9 (WMS 2.66) of left hand twill and right hand twill weave combination and design number 3 (WMS 2.86) and 6 (WMS 2.90) of right hand twill and zig zag twill weave combination and design number 1 (WMS 2.76) and 5 (WMS 2.83) of zig zag twill and left hand twill weave combination. The physical properties of shoddy fabrics were almost similar to the control fabrics as indicated by CD, F-value, CV and SE. Most preferred constructional designs were design number 7 (WMS 2.53) for gents‟ jacket and design number 10 (WMS 2.57) for ladies‟ kurti. All the developed twenty four shoddy products i.e. 12 gents‟ jacket and 12 ladies‟ kurti were found highly acceptable for all the assessment parameters as indicated by their WMS values above 2.33. The cost of developed gents‟ jacket ranged from `600 to 650 and ` 1117 to 1200 for ladies‟ kurti, which was rated as appropriate by most of the consumers. The products developed from recycled blended yarn were found highly acceptable by the consumers.
Open Access
Effect of enzymatic treatment on dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye
(CCSHAU, 2018) Samant, Lata; Rose, Neelam M.
Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of enzymes have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study has been planned to assess the effect of different enzyme treatments on dyeing efficiency of cotton for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of enzyme treatments for three enzymes i.e. acid cellulase, neutral cellulase and xylanase was done on the basis of dye absorption and wash fastness rating for different enzyme concentration and treatment conditions. The chemical and enzyme desized and scoured fabrics were pretreated with all the three enzymes and dyed with selected natural dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of enzyme treated fabrics and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of selected dye and enzyme treated samples were done. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the enzyme treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the enzyme treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between alkali and enzyme scoured fabrics treated with enzymes and dyed with natural dye. It was found that percent dye absorption and wash fastness of catechu (Acacia catechu) dye was higher for all the three enzymes as compared to manjistha dye on alkali and enzyme scoured samples, hence catechu dye was selected. The parameter optimized for enzyme treatment of alkali scoured fabric were 1 percent enzyme concentration, 1:25 M:L Ratio, 4, 7 and 7 pH, 55, 65 and 60°C treatment temperature and 30, 45 and 30 minutes treatment time for acid cellulase, neutral cellulase and xylanase respectively. All these treatment variables were same for the enzyme scoured fabric except 0.25 percent concentration for neutral cellulase and 60 minutes treatment time for all the enzymes. SEM analysis demonstrated smoother surface of enzyme treated sample and FTIR analysis revealed the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to enzyme treatment. All the three enzyme treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among all the enzyme treated dyed fabrics, neutral cellulase treated dyed fabric showed maximum decrease in bending length (2.87 cm) and friction (169.63 N) whereas xylanase treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (26.80%), crease recovery angle (94.39 degree), moisture regain (6.39%) and wickability (5.4 cm). The enzyme scoured xylanase treated and catechu dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (48.61) indicating excellent protection category while in alkali scoured xylanase treated dyed fabric UPF value was (37.22). The enzyme treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (96.81%) and S. aureus (98.42%). Thus it is concluded that enzyme treatments enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The enzyme pretreatment and catechu dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence the enzymes are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.

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