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Open Access
Documentation of rural textile micro-enterprises of Punjab
(College of Agriculture Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University Hisar, 2003) Kaur, Harinder; Sindhu, S. P
Open Access
Revival of appliqué work through digital technology
(CCSHAU, 2016) Sharma, Anshul; Saroj S. Jeet Singh
The folk art and the traditional ideas that are the glitter of our culture, when applied on textile by a commercial aspect is gaining popularity. Appliqué work can be served as a great source of inspiration and ideas for creating new designs in the fashion world. Thus the present study was conducted to revive traditional craft of appliqué of India through stencil and digital printing embellished with hand, machine and digital embroidery. The base colour and fabric were selected as per preference of experts. The traditional Indian motifs were collected from primary and secondary sources and screened for their suitability to saris and appliqué work. The screened motifs were again created and refined in CorelDraw to get the required intricacy and fineness. Top twenty motifs were selected as per the expert’s choice and developed thirty seven designs by simulation using CorelDRAW software from the selected motifs. Developed designs got evaluated from a panel of thirty experts for selection of five top preferred designs for placement on saris. Thirty design placements were created and shown to the experts and one best design placement of each selected five design was selected for development of colour ways. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were prepared and colour way that secured Ist rank was selected for development of saris through appliqué work, stencil and digital printing designs embellished with hand, machine and digital embroidery. The cost and time of each sari was determined by adding the cost of fabric, patching/printing and embroidery material, labour involved in patching/printing, embroidery and finishing. The developed saris were assessed for consumers’ acceptability on different designing parameters. From the collected 1000 motifs, 110 motifs which were considered suitable for appliqué work on saris were screened. Organdie fabric in light yellow colour was most preferred for saris. Out of 110 motifs, twenty motifs were selected for simulation into design were motif number 97, 89, 66, 73, 70, 93, 65, 12, 95, 110, 91, 19, 94, 10, 88, 60, 100, 24, 44 and 7. The five top preferred designs were design number 5, 19, 22, 23 and 24. Preferences of experts for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design number 5, 19 and 23, placement I of design number 22 and placement IV of design number 24. Most preferred colour ways for appliqué on sais as per experts’ choice were colour way III of design number 5, 22 and 24, colour way II of design number 19 and colour way I of design number 23. Forty five saris i.e. nine saris of each selected design were developed through appliqué, stencil and digital printing and embellished with hand, machine and digital embroidery as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs. All the forty five developed saris were found very appealing and highly accepted by consumers on all the parameters of assessments as those successfully gave the simulated effect of appliqué work. The cost of the saris was rated appropriate by more than fifty percent consumers.
Open Access
Development of digital embroidery designs from traditional motifs of Haryana
(CCSHAU, 2016) Sunita; Rose, Neelam M.
The motifs and patterns of traditional art and craft provide significant elements for designing and are indicative of the rich cultural heritage of different states of India.Thus the present study was conducted to adapt and apply traditional motifs of Haryana on different products using digital embroidery technique. The 400 traditional motifs of Haryana were collected from primary and secondary sources and screened for their suitability to apparels, home textiles and utility articles as well as digital embroidery. The screened motifs were categorized in five categories viz. geometrical, floral and foliage, animal and bird, human and religious motifs and database was prepared. The motifs were shown to the thirty experts to seek their preferences for selection of one third top preferred motifs from each category of motifs. Two top preferred products of apparels, home textiles and utility articles/accessories were selected from listed products. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabrics and base colours of fabric for selected six products. A total of sixty designs, twenty for each category of products were developed using selected thirty four motifs and two top raked designs for each selected product were selected for placements. Created thirty six design placements were again shown to the experts and one best placement of each selected twelve designs was chosen. Three colour ways for each selected twelve design placements were simulated and colour way that secured I rank was selected for embroidery. Twelve products were developed through digital embroidery and cost of each product was calculated. The developed products were assessed on different parameters. Out of 102 motifs, thirty four motifs selected for design development were motif number 2, 5, 7, 12, 13, 19, 20 and 23 in geometrical category, motif number 4, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 12 in floral and foliage category, motif number 4, 5, 9, 12, 15, 20, 21 and 22 in animal and bird category, motif number 2, 3, 5, 6, 9 and 15 in human category and motif number 1, 3, 4, 8, 11 and 12 in religious category. Twelve designs of design number 10 and 13 for ladies’ kurta, 3 and 7 for stole, 2 and 6 for bed cover, 11 and 13 for cushion cover, 9 and 13 for tote bag and 4 and 5 for file folder were selected. Most preferred placements of selected twelve designs were placement III of design number 10 and placement I of design number 13 for ladies’ kurta, placement III of design number 3 and placement II of design number 7 for stole, placement II of design number 2 and placement III of design number 6 for bed cover, placement III for both the selected designs of cushion covers, placement I for both the selected designs of tote bag and placement III for both the selected designs of file folder. Most preferred colour ways for digital embroidery on selected products were colour way III for both the selected designs of ladies kurta, colour way III of design number 3 and colour way I of design number 7 for stole, colour way II for both the selected designs of bed cover, colour way III of design number 11 and colour way II of design number 13 for cushion cover, colour way I for both the selected designs of tote bag, colour way I of design number 4 and colour way III of design number 5 for file folder. Twelve products were developed through digital embroidery technique using most preferred placements and colour ways of selected designs. The cost of the digital embroidered products was rated appropriate by half of the consumers. All the developed products were found highly appreciated and well accepted by consumers for suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development for the apparels, home textiles and utility articles. Thus, traditional motifs of Haryana adapted for designing various products using digital embroidery has broadened the design base for apparel and textile products.
Open Access
Effect of textile processing on ultraviolet protection of cotton fabric
(CCSHAU, 2012) Sati, Hema; Rose, Neelam M
The present research was planned to study the effect of textile processing on the ultraviolet protection of cotton fabric. To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, cotton fabric suitable for apparel use during summer season was selected, desized, chemically and enzymatically scoured and bleached, dyed with different concentrations of blue coloured direct, reactive and natural indigo dyes and tested for colorfastness properties and application of laundry additives was done. Change in physical properties regarding fabric count, fabric thickness, weight, thickness, shrinkage, tensile strength, elongation, abrasion resistance, moisture content and air permeability were examined and effect of all these properties along with wetting and abrasion on ultraviolet protection on cotton fabric was investigated. An awareness package about ultraviolet protection through textiles and clothing was developed and information was disseminated through lectures and interactive sessions and distribution of awareness package and the knowledge acquisition of respondents was assessed. It was found that on preparatory treatments the UPF value of the fabric reduced from 46.08 to 26.29 percent and mean UPF value ranging from 25.02 to 13.47 and UV protection from very good to good. 2, 5 and 8 percent dye concentrations were selected as light, medium and dark shades for further work on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and best colour fastness properties. The UPF of the fabric increased remarkably when dyed with direct, reactive and natural indigo dyes in selected concentrations. The UPF increased with increase in dye concentration for all the three dyes. For 2 and 5 percent dye concentrations, the highest mean UPF value was obtained with natural indigo dye i.e. 65.24 and 87.25 with 50+ rating and providing excellent protection and lowest UPF by direct dye i.e. 30.71 and 45.92. For 8 percent concentration, the highest mean UPF was obtained with reactive dye (99.59) followed by natural indigo dye (88.44) and the lowest mean UPF values were obtained with direct dye (67.88) all with 50+ rating. For improving ultraviolet protection of cotton fabric, natural indigo dye proved to best followed by reactive and direct dye. Natural indigo dyed fabrics exhibited excellent colour fastness, reactive dye showed very good colour fastness and direct dye with poor colour fastness. In case of undyed fabric, fabric count, percent shrinkage, percent elongation, moisture content and air permeability increased while weight, thickness, tensile strength, abrasion resistance and mean UPF value decreased with the introduction of preparatory treatments. For dyed fabrics, increase in dye concentration showed increase in fabric count, weight, thickness, percent shrinkage, tensile strength, percent elongation, moisture content and air permeability while abrasion resistance of the fabric decreased of all the dyed and treated samples. It was concluded that the increase in UPF cannot be attributed to change in one single property because change in each and every property along with the type of dye and dye concentration in totality effect the ultraviolet protection of the fabric. Both dyed and undyed fabrics showed a drastic reduction in ultraviolet protection after wetting and abrasion. Among various laundry additives available in market, most of the respondents were using 10 ml Revive liquid starch per l of water, 15 ml comfort fabric conditioner per 10 l of water, 5 g Ranipal OBA per 10 l ofwater and 3 ml Robin blue liquid per 4 l of water for application on coloured and white clothes. Maximum increase in UPF value from 39.45 to 42.16 was seen when the laundry additives were applied in combination on whiteclothes. With the application of OBA a remarkable difference in mean UPF value of all the dyed fabrics samples was observed whereas with the application of starch and fabric conditioner the mean UPF value increased indyed fabrics though the change was not remarkable. Leaflets, pamphlets and booklets in hindi and english languages were prepared and information on UV protection through textiles and clothing was disseminated through lectures, power pointpresentations and interactive sessions at different rural and urban locations of Hisar to create awareness among consumers. The knowledge level of rural and urban respondents about UV protection through textiles and clothing significantly improved after dissemination of information indicating significant effectiveness of developed package.
Open Access
Media package on fabric surface enrichment for women empowerment
(CCSHAU, 2016) Gaba, Geeta; Yadav, Nirmal
The present study was conducted in Haryana state. Fifty rural and fifty urban women through each Krishi Vigyan Kendra (KVK) of Bhiwani and Rohtak districts. Hence, 200 respondents were selected purposively for assessing training needs of women regarding fabric surface enrichment techniques for media preparation. On the basis of overall mean scores and ranks, ‘Tie and dye’ technique got 1 st rank, ‘Block printing’ technique got 2 nd rank selected for media preparation. ‘Embellishment using different materials’ technique got 3 rd rank was taken as value addition to tie and dyed and block printed fabrics. Standard procedures for development of media (printed and electronic) were followed and assessed on several parameters by 30 experts for its effectiveness in terms of validity, reliability and field applicability. Overall mean scores revealed that accuracy, coverage, objectivity, writing style, content presentation, illustration and compatibility was perceived to be high for both the techniques. Effectiveness of video in terms of audio quality, video quality, presentation of message, content importance, content suitability and text was rated as high. The content validity ratio for all the attributes of printed manuals and video was found to be significant. Inter consistency reliability for printed manuals and video was foun d to be statistically significant at 5 per cent level of significance. Field applicability was also found to be high for both the techniques. The prepared media was exposed to the respondents for imparting trainings. The impact of media package was found to be significant for gain in knowledge, change in attitude and skill acquisition. The impact assessment index of media package on rural respondents of both the selected districts was found to be 50.59 per cent and on urban respondents, it was 52.22% which is of moderate level. Therefore, it can be concluded that the prepared media package on the two selected fabric surface enrichment techniques i.e. ‘Tie and dye’ and ‘Block printing’ value added with embellishment using different materials was effective in terms of improving knowledge, attitude and skills of the beneficiaries. Hence, it can be inferred that the prepared media package served the purpose well for which it was prepared.
Open Access
Utilization of Karanja Extracts on Cotton Fabric for Microbial Resistance
(CCSHAU, 2014) Puspa; Punia, Parveen
The study was conducted to assess the efficacy of karanja extracts on cotton fabric with respect to microbial resistance. Karanja extracts of leaves and seeds in viscous and dry state in two concentrations i.e. 2.5g/l and 5g/l were prepared and four pieces of scoured cotton fabric were impregnated with these four prepared solutions (LEVS, SEVS, SDLP and SDSP) separately.. The antiseptic containing chloroxylenol treatment was taken as standard. Pseudomonas bacterium and Aspergillus fungus were selected for the present study as cotton is susceptible to their growth. To study the effect of all karanja extract treatments and antiseptic containing chloroxylenol (standard) treatment, the treated samples were tested for microbial (bacterium and fungus) resistance activity quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing of samples. Fibres for microscopic examination were taken from that portion of the tested samples for tensile strength, from where the fabric was torn out during testing. The percent change in weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity and elongation of all treated samples were increased after treatment. The increase in these physical properties of treated samples was found with increase in extracts concentrations while air-permeability, moisture regain and tensile strength decreased. After washing, weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity and tensile strength decreased whereas there was increase in air-permeability, moisture regain and elongation in all treated samples including antiseptic containing chloroxylenol (standard). After assessment of microbial activity against Pseudomonas and Aspergillus through percent reduction all treatments were found effective against Pseudomonas and Aspergillus after 30 minutes of inoculation. Leaves and seeds extracts treatments in viscous state were more effective as compared to other treatments. All extracts in 2.5g/l concentration were very effective after 30 minutes of inoculation (100%) of Pseudomonas and Aspergillus. The 5g/l concentration were found very effective after 30 minutes of inoculation and on 7th day. Maximum (100%) percent reduction was observed in Pseudomonas growth upto 7th day. After washing it was concluded that leaves extracts in viscous state were more effective than other treatments. However it is needed to retreat the fabric samples after every wash. Leaves extracts in viscous state showed comparable results with the antiseptic containing chloroxylenol (standard). In some cases leaves extracts in viscous state was even more effective than antiseptic treatment. It was further concluded that after inoculation of Pseudomonas and Aspergillus these microbes do not affect the physical properties of the treated samples heavily. It was concluded that percent change in weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, elongation and moisture regain increased after treatments whereas air-permeability, flexural rigidity and tensile strength decreased. Treatments with 2.5g/l concentration were more effective than 5g/l concentration and physical properties of samples inoculated with Pseudomonas were less affected than Aspergillus. After inoculation of Pseudomonas and Aspergillus swelling in the fibre was observed indicating the loosening of the fibre. As the efficacy of karanja leaves extract in viscous state was comparable with antiseptic (taken as standard), it can be used at household level as renewable treatment for imparting resistance against the Pseudomonas and Aspergillus growth.
Open Access
Diversification of hand made carpets of Panipat
(CCSHAU, 2012) Saroj Bala; Punia, Purveen
The study was conducted on Diversification of handmade carpets of Panipat The existing status of handmade carpet making units, market study the availability of carpet products and consumer preferences regarding products and product attributes were studied from 30 carpet making units from Panipat, 20 carpet selleing units in Panipat and Hisar market and 120 consumers from Hisar and Panipat.It was found that maximum numbers of the carpet manufacturing units in Panipat were established during 2001-11. All the units were registered . All the units were being run privately and on partnership basis. Majority of units were producing hand tufted carpets export carpets. Basically these were two types of handmade carpet manufacturing techniques i.e. hand tufting and hand weaving. Majority of carpets were made with geometrical designs in more than three colours and upto 5 colours. Carpet material was being used for foots mat, stool mats and prayer mats, prayer chowki covers, mat for telephone and settee covers mainly. Majority of the owners opined the availability of hand knotted and machine woven carpet at selling units. Carpets found in market were embellished with printing and combination of printing and appliqué.Majority of designs with geometrical designs were in more than three colours. The most preferred products for diversification were prayer chowki cover, muda cover, prayer mat, stool mat, telephone mat, foot mat, file cover, wall pocket, teddy bear and belt developed. A change in the existing designs according to its suitability and utility. Preferred yarns were wool, malai dori, art silk, nylon, and lace for products. There was a lot of scope for change yet the possibility of making changes in existing carpets of Panipat was arrived at in terms of deign development, combination of carpet making techniques, embellishment of surface use of carpet material for other purposes. Three designs of each preferred ten products were created using Corel-Draw 12. The top ranked designs and handmade techniques of each product were used for development of selected diversified products. Stool mat, belt, prayer mat, prayer chowhi cover, muda cover were highly acceptable in terms of utility.The cost of products was considered to be appropriate consumers for teddy bear, belt, file cover, wall pocket, stool mat, muda cover and telephone mat. Training on preparation of diversified products from carpet material was imparted to 50 women weavers of four villages of Hisar-1 block. There was significant gain in knowledge of weavers after imparting training regarding making creative products from carpet materials, manufacturing techniques and embellishments used. The physical properties of the developed diversified products were tested. The difference found in the values for the total mass, pile weight, pile density, pile pull out strength, pile height was due to difference in techniques, designs and yarns used to develop various diversified products. Colour fastness to shampooing for change of shades of 8 out of 10 developed products was ‘good to excellent’.
Open Access
Dye Extraction From Plant Sources Through Fermentation Technique For Silk Dyeing
(Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University; Hisar, 2010) Makkar, Priya; Singh, Saroj S. Jeet
Open Access
Herbal finishes on cotton and woollen fabrics
(CCSHAU, 2012) Santosh; Khambra, Krishna
The present research was planned to study the effect of herbal finishes on cotton and woollen fabrics. To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, two herbs namely neem and Aloe vera were selected for finish application on cotton and wool fabrics on the bases of review of literature. Neem leaves extraction was carried out by Soxhlet extraction method and Aloe vera extraction was carried out by Maceration method. Fabrics were enzymatically scoured and finish was applied on grey as well as scoured fabrics with two concentrations (3g/l and 5g/l) of neem and Aloe vera extract with exhaust and pad dry cure method. Weight add on percent of finish was determined and SEM analyses was done for visual inspection of extract absorbed by the fabric. Finished fabrics were tested for antimicrobial activity and effectiveness of finish was also analyzed. Physical properties were examined before and after finish application. Change in physical properties regarding fabric thickness, weight, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity, tensile strength, elongation, abrasion resistance, moisture regain and air permeability were examined and effect of washing on all these properties was investigated. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 16.76 % for neem and 9.7 % for Aloe vera extract. Maximum weight add-on percentage was observed in 5g/l neem treated scoured cotton fabric (11.60%) followed by 5g/l neem treated grey cotton fabric (11.08%). After microbial testing it was found that there was confluent lawn of growth in controlled sample. As the concentration of extract increased, bacterial reduction of all herbal treated grey samples also increased. It was 75% with 5g/l neem treated grey cotton and 95.02% with 5g/l neem treated grey wool sample. For improving antibacterial activity of fabrics, enzymatic scouring proved to be better than application on grey fabric. It was also observed that herbal treated scoured fabric samples showed very good percentage of bacterial reduction as compared to herbal treated grey fabric samples. Maximum percentage reduction was 96.80% with 5g/l neem treated scoured cotton and 96.72% with 5g/l neem treated scoured wool sample. Further, it was observed that neem treatment was more effective as compared to Aloe vera treatment in herbal treated grey samples. Herbal treated wool (95.02%) fabric samples showed very good bacterial resistance as compared to cotton fabric (75%). The effectiveness of the finish was analyzed and found that Aloe vera treated scoured cotton fabric samples (77.37%) showed the very good wash durability even after 20 washing cycles. In case of wool fabric, maximum (82.81%) wash durability of finish was found in Aloe vera treated scoured sample finished with pad dry cure method. Finished fabrics were tested for physical properties and found that fabric weight, thickness, bulk, drape coefficient, abrasion resistance, bending length, flexural rigidity and elongation, increased whereas, air permeability, tensile strength, moisture regain and wettability decreased as compared to controlled samples. Effect of washing on physical properties of finished fabrics were investigated and found that fabric weight (6.38%), thickness (18.91%), bulk (6.29%), drape coefficient (13.42%), abrasion resistance (19.29%), bending length (49.60%), flexural rigidity (30.15%) and tensile strength(29.72%) decreased whereas, air permeability (20.52%), wettability (13.83%), moisture regain (9.72%) and elongation (9.94%) increased after washing the samples as compared to unwashed samples. Major Advisor HOD Signature o

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