Revival of appliqué work through digital technology
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Date
2016
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CCSHAU
Abstract
The folk art and the traditional ideas that are the glitter of our culture, when applied on textile by a
commercial aspect is gaining popularity. Appliqué work can be served as a great source of inspiration
and ideas for creating new designs in the fashion world. Thus the present study was conducted to revive
traditional craft of appliqué of India through stencil and digital printing embellished with hand,
machine and digital embroidery. The base colour and fabric were selected as per preference of experts.
The traditional Indian motifs were collected from primary and secondary sources and screened for their
suitability to saris and appliqué work. The screened motifs were again created and refined in
CorelDraw to get the required intricacy and fineness. Top twenty motifs were selected as per the
expert’s choice and developed thirty seven designs by simulation using CorelDRAW software from the
selected motifs. Developed designs got evaluated from a panel of thirty experts for selection of five top
preferred designs for placement on saris. Thirty design placements were created and shown to the
experts and one best design placement of each selected five design was selected for development of
colour ways. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were prepared and colour way
that secured Ist rank was selected for development of saris through appliqué work, stencil and digital
printing designs embellished with hand, machine and digital embroidery. The cost and time of each sari
was determined by adding the cost of fabric, patching/printing and embroidery material, labour
involved in patching/printing, embroidery and finishing. The developed saris were assessed for
consumers’ acceptability on different designing parameters. From the collected 1000 motifs, 110 motifs
which were considered suitable for appliqué work on saris were screened. Organdie fabric in light
yellow colour was most preferred for saris. Out of 110 motifs, twenty motifs were selected for
simulation into design were motif number 97, 89, 66, 73, 70, 93, 65, 12, 95, 110, 91, 19, 94, 10, 88, 60,
100, 24, 44 and 7. The five top preferred designs were design number 5, 19, 22, 23 and 24. Preferences
of experts for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design number 5, 19 and 23,
placement I of design number 22 and placement IV of design number 24. Most preferred colour ways
for appliqué on sais as per experts’ choice were colour way III of design number 5, 22 and 24, colour
way II of design number 19 and colour way I of design number 23. Forty five saris i.e. nine saris of
each selected design were developed through appliqué, stencil and digital printing and embellished
with hand, machine and digital embroidery as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected
five designs. All the forty five developed saris were found very appealing and highly accepted by
consumers on all the parameters of assessments as those successfully gave the simulated effect of
appliqué work. The cost of the saris was rated appropriate by more than fifty percent consumers.
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