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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × End date: 2006 × Start date: 2006 × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Standardization of paper patterns of kurta-pyjama for pre-adolescent boys
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Bala, Saroj; Khambra, Krishna
    The Present study was conducted for Standardization of Paper Patterns of Kurta-Pyjama for Pre-adolescent Boys. During pre-adoloscence phase, the body contour begins to take shape. So clothes of this age group need special care while stitching. Patterns of kurta-pyjama for six chests and six hip girths were made by using standardized anthropometric body measurement (available in the deptt.). 12 foundation paper patterns were prepared by standard drafting technique of size 28” to 33” for kurta and 31” to 36” for pyjama. The foundation paper patterns so prepared were used for cutting and stitching of twelve kurta-pyjamas. Each kurta-pyjama was tried on 10 adolescent respondents having corresponding chest and hip girth. Hence a total of 60 respondents were selected for trial of stitched kurta-pyjama. During trials for reliability assessment of kurta-pyjama it was found that minor changes were observed for all the sizes of kurta-pyjama. On the basis of trials and modified paper patterns, modified kurta-pyjama were again stitched and retried on three respondents of each size (chest and hip). Hence 12 foundation paper patterns were standardized. To Study the opinion of the women regarding paper patterns and drafting techniques, four trainings each of one week duration in cutting and stitching of adoloscent kurta-pyjama were conducted. Two trainings were conducted in Hisar city and two in villages namely Ludas and Kaimari villages of the Hisar district. The women who had knowledge of garment construction were selected for each training. In each group, there were minimum 15 women and in total 60 trainees attended the trainings. Personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum (51.6%) trainees were from the age group of 15-25 years and most of them (40.0%) had received education upto middle, majority of the trainees (71.66%) belonged to medium family size and 51.66% of trainees had monthly income in range of Rs. 3001 – 6000/-. The data regarding achievement motivation highlighted that trainees attended the training with major objective ‘self stitching is the best way to utilize old fabric/left over fabric’ (3.0). The data regarding of the trainees (63.3%) had low opinion level for drafting technique whereas majority of the respondents (76.6%) had high opinion level for paper patterns. The trainees also had high opinion about the training as ‘The training has helped trainees to learn easy method of cutting by using paper pattern’ (3.00). The data regarding symbolic adoption for paper patterns was high because of the facts that trainees have no social inhibition for acceptance of paper patterns in the village’ (2.88). From the results it can be concluded that the adoption of paper pattern for kurta-pyjama cutting would be helpful for the women who has low educational level in cutting and stitching of garments.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Standardization of paper patterns for blouse
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Parkasho Devi; Pruthi, Neelam
    The Present study involved the standardization & development of paper patterns for blouses. Twelve foundation paper patterns for blouses were developed & blouses were constructed for 32”, 34”, 36” and 38” bust sizes with three waist girths of each size. Each blouse was tried on 10 respondents having corresponding measurements i.e. 30 respondents of each bust size & 120 respondents in total. During trials for reliability assessment, very minor changes were observed which were incorporated in the foundation paper patterns and 12 paper patterns were standardized. To study the opinion of women regarding paper patterns & drafting technique, four trainings were conducted, two each in Hisar and Rewari Districts and out of them, one was in rural area and one in urban area. The women having skill in garment constructions were selected to impart trainings. These were attended by 55 respondents. Data pertaining to personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum of them were from age group of 15-25 years and majority of them had education above matric but below graduation and belonged to medium family size. About 50% of them were having family income in the range of Rs. 3000-5000/-. The major motivating factor found to attend the training was to learn something new (2.85). Majority of trainees opined that ‘one has to depend on others for cutting of blouse if its drafting is not known’. Low opinion of the trainees for drafting technique was found due to one of reasons that illiterate ladies with low educational level, can’t do calculation for drafting’ (1.34). The respondents had high opinion about paper patterns as they found that the paper patterns will increase the speed of garment construction (2.96) and ‘with the help of paper pattern, one can do cutting independently’ (2.92). The training was also found to be useful by the trainees as ‘it helped them to learn easy method of cutting by using paper patterns (2.85). Symbolic adoption of paper patterns was also high as the respondents were of the view that ‘use of paper pattern can improve the economic condition of women without much effort’ (2.90). Majority of the respondents (70.9%) had poor opinion about the drafting but more than 80% had high opinion about the paper patterns and 63.63% respondents had high opinion about the training. On the basis of opinion of women and the observations made during the trainings, the standardized paper patterns were prepared without seam allowances.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Scouring of woollen fabric using enzymes
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Kholiya, Ruchi; Khambra, Krishna
    Wool is one of our most versatile fibre. It is such a complex blend of properties that modern science still cannot duplicate it or create a synthetic clone. Scouring through enzymes is a new concept in scouring of natural fibres with an enzyme-based formulation for efficient removal of natural impurities from wool without any fatal damage to the fibre. But recipe optimization, type and suitability of enzymes for different substrates still remain as potential domain for research. So the present study was undertaken under the objectives: to optimize the conditions for enzyme treatment of woollen fabric and to study the physical properties of the treated fabric. Two enzymes namely cellulase (palkosoft super 720) and protease (palkowool LPL) were used for enzyme treatment on pure grey woollen fabric, with different concentrations, time periods, pH and temperatures. Some of the basic fabric properties i.e. weight per unit area, tensile strength, and change in colour were measured for optimization of process conditions for enzymatic scouring. It was observed that with the increase in concentration and duration of enzyme treatment there was increase in weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. In case of pH and temperature there was less loss at higher pH and temperature. The optimum conditions for cellulase enzyme treatment were selected as 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes time at pH 7 and temperature 60oC whereas the optimum conditions selected for protease enzyme treatment were 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes at pH 8 and temperature 70oC. The selection of conditions was carried out by the objective assessment of colour change, weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. Further physical properties of the optimized samples were measured by following standard procedure. The enzymatic scouring with cellulase and protease enzymes results in significant increase in fabric count, crease recovery angle, pilling resistance, abrasion resistance and colour change whereas non significant increase were found in bulk property after enzymatic treatment. Significant decreases were observed in weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp direction elongation of protease enzyme treated woollen fabric. After enzymatic treatment with both enzymes there were significant decrease in weft direction elongation, bending length, flexural rigidity, shrinkage and porosity. Non-significant decreases were observed in case of weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp wise elongation when woollen fabric was treated with cellulase enzymes. There was a non-significant decrease in thickness and drape coefficient after enzymatic scouring with both enzymes. So it is recommended that use of enzymes for the purpose of woollen scouring is more beneficial and eco friendly than conventional scouring of woollen fabric.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Standardization of paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Gulati, Nidhi; Pruthi, Neelam
    The present study was conducted to standardize the paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls. Standardization of paper pattern involved preparation of foundation paper patterns, construction of garments using foundation paper patterns, reliability assessment of stitched garments and development of standardized paper patterns. Foundation paper pattern were made using drafting technique on the basis of standardize anthropometrical measurements. Nine foundation paper patterns for kameez were developed and kameez were constructed for 28”, 29” and 30” bust girth with three waist girth of each size. Three foundation paper patterns of salwar were developed and salwar were constructed for 32”, 33” and 34” hip girth. Each kameez was tried on 10 respondents having corresponding waist girth and each salwar was also tried having corresponding hip girth. Hence the garments were tried on total 90 respondents. During trials for reliability assessment, very negligible changes were observed which were incorporated in the foundation paper patterns and total of 12 paper patterns were standardized, nine for kameez and three for salwar. To study the opinion of trainees regarding paper patterns and drafting techinque, four trainings were conducted, two in Hisar city and two in villages i.e. Ludas and Kaimeri. The women/girls having skill in garment constructions were selected to impart trainings. These were attended by 60 respondents. Data pertaining to personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum of them were from age group of 15-25 years and majority of them had education upto middle level and belonged to medium sized family. About 51.66 percent of them were having family income in the range of Rs. 3001-6000 /-. The major motivating factor for attending the training found was ‘self-stitching is the best way to utilize old fabric/ left over fabric’ (3). Majority of trainees opined that ‘illiterate ladies with low educational level can’t do calculations for drafting’ (2.90). The respondents had high opinion about paper patterns as they found that ‘the use of paper patterns have given chance to stitch kameez-salwar at home independently’ (2.95) and ‘trainees can adopt garment construction as an income generating activity if paper pattern of different sizes are easily available’ (2.91). The training was also found to be useful by trainees as ‘it helped them to learn easy method of cutting by using paper patterns’ (3). Symbolic adoption of paper patterns was also high as the trainees were of the view that ‘trainees have no social inhibition for acceptance of paper pattern in the village’ (2.88). Majority of the trainees (76.66%) had high opinion about the paper patterns but (63.3%) had poor opinion about the drafting technique and 79.33% had high opinion about the training. On the basis of opinion of trainees and the previous studies, the standardized paper patterns were prepared without seam allowance.