Effect of sericin treatment on dyeability of cotton fabric using natural dye
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Date
2014
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Publisher
CCSHAU
Abstract
The present research was planned to study the effect of sericin treatment on dyeability of cotton fabric
using a natural dye. To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, cotton fabric suitable for apparel use
during summer season was selected, desized and scoured. Four easily available dyes i.e. Kachnar bark, Manjistha
root, Neem leaves and Safflower flowers were tried for the study. Sericin treated fabrics were dyed with all four
dyes using their standardized dyeing procedure which were taken from secondary sources. One natural dye was
selected on the basis of effect of sericin treatment on maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness.
Different variables i.e. sericin concentration, treatment temperature, treatment time, pH, material to liquor ratio
(MLR), treatment stage, combination and concentrations of auxiliaries, drying temperature and time, curing
temperature and time were optimized on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness for
standardizing sericin application process. Sericin treated and untreated dyed fabrics were tested for colourfastness
properties. L, a*, b* and K/S values of dyed fabrics were also compared. Effect of sericin treatment on change in
physical properties regarding fabric count, thickness, weight, flexural rigidity, tensile strength, elongation, crease
recovery, wettabiliy and air permeability were examined. Effect of sericin treatment and dyeing on ultraviolet
protection property of cotton fabric was also investigated.
Out of tried dyes manjistha was found to have maximum dye absorption after sericin treatment. Different
variables i.e. 0.50 % sericin, 4 % crosslinking agent (citric acid), 1% catalyst (sodium hypophosphite), 45 minutes
treatment time, 50°C treatment temperature, M:L ratio 1:30, pH 8, drying temperature 70°C, drying time 4
minutes, curing temperature 160°C and curing time 2 minutes were selected for sericin treatment on the basis of
maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness. It was found that the dye absorption of the treated fabric
increased from 19.5 to 31.7 percent using optimized variables. Sericin treated dyed fabric also exhibited better
colourfastness ratings as compared to untreated dyed fabric. Fabric treated with sericin was redder, yellower and
brighter indicated by lower L* value and higher a*, b* and C* values.
Fabric count, weight and thickness did not show any significant change however tensile strength,
bending length, crease recovery and wettability increased by 8.5 3.1, 9.3 and 49.02 percent. Moreover, elongation
and air permeability decreased by 8.3 and 10.35 percent upon sericin treatment. Ultraviolet protection factor of
sericin treated cotton fabric increased to 22.39 from 14.25 of scoured cotton fabric. Manjistha dyed fabric
exhibited very good UPF (32.6) whereas sericin treated dyed fabric offered excellent ultraviolet protection (48.4).
Thus sericin treatment can be given to cotton fabric using natural dyes to improve dye uptake without affecting the
hue and physical properties of the dyed fabric.
Description
Keywords
Sericin treatment, Dyeability, Colourfastness properties, Standardization, Physical properties