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Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat
Assam Agricultural University is the first institution of its kind in the whole of North-Eastern Region of India. The main goal of this institution is to produce globally competitive human resources in farm sectorand to carry out research in both conventional and frontier areas for production optimization as well as to disseminate the generated technologies as public good for benefitting the food growers/produces and traders involved in the sector while emphasizing on sustainability, equity and overall food security at household level.
Genesis of AAU -
The embryo of the agricultural research in the state of Assam was formed as early as 1897 with the establishment of the Upper Shillong Experimental Farm (now in Meghalaya) just after about a decade of creation of the agricultural department in 1882. However, the seeds of agricultural research in today’s Assam were sown in the dawn of the twentieth century with the establishment of two Rice Experimental Stations, one at Karimganj in Barak valley in 1913 and the other at Titabor in Brahmaputra valley in 1923. Subsequent to these research stations, a number of research stations were established to conduct research on important crops, more specifically, jute, pulses, oilseeds etc. The Assam Agricultural University was established on April 1, 1969 under The Assam Agricultural University Act, 1968’ with the mandate of imparting farm education, conduct research in agriculture and allied sciences and to effectively disseminate technologies so generated. Before establishment of the University, there were altogether 17 research schemes/projects in the state under the Department of Agriculture. By July 1973, all the research projects and 10 experimental farms were transferred by the Government of Assam to the AAU which already inherited the College of Agriculture and its farm at Barbheta, Jorhat and College of Veterinary Sciences at Khanapara, Guwahati.
Subsequently, College of Community Science at Jorhat (1969), College of Fisheries at Raha (1988), Biswanath College of Agriculture at Biswanath Chariali (1988) and Lakhimpur College of Veterinary Science at Joyhing, North Lakhimpur (1988) were established. Presently, the University has three more colleges under its jurisdiction, viz., Sarat Chandra Singha College of Agriculture, Chapar, College of Horticulture, Nalbari & College of Sericulture, Titabar. Similarly, few more regional research stations at Shillongani, Diphu, Gossaigaon, Lakhimpur; and commodity research stations at Kahikuchi, Buralikson, Tinsukia, Kharua, Burnihat and Mandira were added to generate location and crop specific agricultural production packages.
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ThesisItem Open Access DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF ECO-FRIENDLY SANITARY NAPKIN(2022) Konwar, Suravi; Kalita, Binita B.Menstrual hygiene is a critical problem for low-income groups in developing countries like India. Due to ignorance and lack of awareness, they cannot manage menstrual hygiene during the menstruation period. Studies have shown that about 88% of women in India use unsanitized cloth, ashes, and husk sand as a menstrual absorbent. Also, 70% of women in India can't use sanitary products due to not capable to afford in every month. Moreover, most of the commercially available disposable sanitary products are made of non-biodegradable materials which could induce environmental contamination during disposal. This problem has been solved by replacing a biodegradable sanitary napkin with a synthetic sanitary napkin. The present study focused on developing an eco-friendly sanitary napkin, with multilayer construction by using biodegradable resources. To achieve this goal, roselle and ramie fibers were selected to be used as absorbent filler. Polypropylene melt-blown nonwoven fabric was used as the main top sheet in the developed sanitary napkin. The absorbent layer was developed with a carded web of natural fibers of roselle, and ramie as well as the blend of roselle/ramie (50/50). The developed absorbent core was integrated between the top layer and the barrier layer. Poly lactic acid sheet was used as a barrier layer. Two plant extracts (Nyctanthes arbor-tristis and Syzygium cumini) were applied onto the filler fibers to impart antimicrobial properties and then treated samples were evaluated qualitatively for their antimicrobial activity against grampositive (Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus subtilis) and gram-negative (Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeroginosa) bacteria. The antimicrobial test exhibited that the fibers sample treated with Nyctanthes arbor-tristis extract showed an effective inhibitory zone against all the pathogens. Therefore, Nyctanthes arbortristis extract was used as an antimicrobial finish on the filler fibers of developed sanitary napkins. Sanitary Napkins were made in two different sizes viz. large and extra-large. The performance of the sanitary napkin was assessed by absorbency and ability to withstand pressure after absorption, strike through test, wet back test, fluid retention test, vertical wicking test, leakage proof experiment, disposability test, dimensions, etc. Results showed that the sanitary napkin made from ramie had a high absorption capacity (125±2.00 gm and 113.67±2.08 gm) for both sizes. The large size ramie sanitary napkin had taken a minimum time (2.20±0.16 sec.) to transport the drop of fluid whereas the extra-large size sanitary napkin made of ramie had taken 2.38±0.12 seconds. The core with ramie sanitary napkin showed the least (0.43±0.05 gm and 0.47±0.057 gm) wet back value for the large and extra-large sizes. The highest retention capability was considered for ramie sanitary napkins (313.63±3.62% and 302.87±1.47%) for large and extra-large sizes. The sanitary napkin developed from ramie depicted the highest (6.90±0.10 cm and 5.87±0.11 cm) wicking height capacity for both sizes. The maximum percentage of moisture content (6.23±0.20% and 6.33±0.05%) was found in roselle napkins for both large & extra-large sizes. It was observed that there was no trace of leakage when the barrier sheet was folded into a cone and fluid was poured over it and kept for 48hrs. The large and extra-large size of sanitary napkin made of ramie was disintegrated in water just on 77.00±1.73 and 88.67±1.15 seconds of time. The cost of a single large sanitary napkin was found to be 3.18, 3.28 and 3.23 rupees for sanitary napkin developed from roselle, ramie, and a blend of roselle /ramie (50/50) while a single extra-large sanitary napkin was 3.60, 3.72 and 3.66 rupees for roselle sanitary napkin, ramie sanitary napkin and blend of roselle/ramie (50/50) sanitary napkin which was quite economic as compared to conventional sanitary napkins that are available in the market. Acceptability of the developed sanitary napkins was assessed and the respondents were asked to give a rating on the visual appeal and used product of developed sanitary napkins. The developed sanitary napkins were found excellent in overall visual appeal for both sizes viz. large and extra-large with WMS of 4.31 and 4.33. Respondent‘s opinions about used products were accepted as excellent with WMS of 4.33 and 4.39 for both large and extra-large sizes. 8ThesisItem Open Access Coating mulberry (Bombyx mori) silk fabric with fibroin based nanoparticles(2021) Gogoi, Saradi Jyotsna; Baruah, BulbulTextile industries in 21st century was experiencing the benefits of nanotechnology in multiple fields of application. Nanotechnology overcomed the limitation of traditional process and technology by incorporating many functional properties such as fabric softness, durability, breathability, antimicrobial, water repellency, fire retardancy, ultra violet protection properties etc., to the textile world. It dealt with those properties of materials which could change incredibly when the particle size of the material had fall below approximately 100nm. Application of conventional method to the fibre, yarn or fabric would lose their function and comfort gradually while wearing or laundering. But imparting of nanotechnology to fibre, yarn or fabric would provide resistance to functional properties because, nano particles have large surface area to volume ratio and high surface energy. Coating of mulberry silk fabric with fibroin based nanoparticles would help in protecting skin as well as the mulberry silk fabric from the harmful UV rays. Further the life of fibroin coated mulberry silk might increase due to UV protection. Therefore, an attempt had been made to coat mulberry silk fabric with fibroin based nanoparticles from muga silk. The present research work was carried out on, ―Coating mulberry (Bombyx mori) silk fabric with fibroin based nanoparticles‖ With the following objectives: 1. To coat mulberry silk fabric with fibroin based muga nano particles. 2. To expose the fibroin coated mulberry silk fabric in UV light chamber. 3. To assess the properties of mulberry silk fabric before and after fibroin nano coating. Two sources for coating mulberry silk fabric namely fibroin from muga silk and zinc oxide were selected for the study. Synthesis of fibroin nanoparticles, coating method, fibroin concentration and zinc oxide concentration were optimized. During coating in all the processes material to liquor ratio (1:20) was kept constant. Coating method, fibroin concentration and zinc oxide concentration were optimized, based on the UPF value obtained from the test sample before and after coating. The coated mulberry silk fabric with fibroin and fibroin + zinc oxide indicated very good protection against UV radiation with UPF value 50.78 and 77.19, respectively. The other important properties of coated samples were also very satisfactory. The properties like tensile strength, air permeability, wicking height, stiffness, thickness, crease recovery angle of coated samples decreased due to coating, which was negligible. For example, the tensile strength of controlled sample was 22.28 kgf and 34.60 kgf in warp and weft respectively whereas only fibroin coated sample increased its strength 7.02% in warp direction and 15.58% in weft direction. But the fibroin + zinc oxide coated sample showed decreased strength in warp direction (13.20 kgf) and increased strength in weft direction (53.60 kgf). Air permeability was related to comfort property of fabric. In the present investigation air permeability of controlled sample is 0.102 KPaS/m where as fibroin coated fabric showed 0.094 KPaS/m and fibroin + zinc oxide coated fabric showed 0.073 KPaS/m. It could be confirmed that, these nano particles coating did not affect the comfort property of the fabric. Besides these, wash durability of coated fabric was also found to be good. Fibroin coated samples could resist UPF up to 10 washings and fibroin + zinc oxide coated silk fabric could resist UPF up to 15 washings. Hence, from the study it was found that, fibroin and fibroin + zinc oxide could be effectively used for coating mulberry silk fabric. It protected the mulberry silk fabric as well as our skin from the harmful ultraviolet radiation.ThesisItem Open Access REMOVAL OF RESIDUAL TEXTILE DYE EFFLUENT USING ACTIVATED CARBON PREPARED FROM AGRICULTURAL RESIDUES(AAU, Jorhat, 2021) Roy, Reena; Phukan, Ava RaniTextile dyeing industries are one of the most polluted industries which createlots of problems for environmental pollution. The textile dyeing industry produces in large amount of production and release of waste water effluent. In the present study, activated carbons were prepared from almond, coconut, mustard, rice bran and sesame oil cakes. The powdered oil cakes were treated with 5% NaCl for 12 hours in the rotary shaker followed by chemical activation with 1 N H3PO4, 2.5 N H2SO4 and 2.5 N H3PO4 for 24 hours. The pyrolysis was performed at 300˚C for 2 hours. The ball milling technique was applied to reduce the particle size of the activated carbon. The integrated activated carbons were used for the color removal for acid and metal complex dye effluent from the wool dyeing unit. For dye effluent treatment different concentrations of adsorbent viz.,0.1%, 0.25%, 0.5% and 1.0% and time period 30, 60 and 90 minutes were taken respectively. The results showed that very small quantities (1.0 and 2.0%) of activated carbons were sufficient to remove around 92% color from the dye effluent. The particle size of the activated carbon was further reduced by ball milling in Pulverisette 6 for 1 hour.The characterization of activated carbon was synthesized such as FTIR, SEM, EDX, XRD, BET, bulk density, porosity, ash content, moisture content, pH, zero point charge (pzc), iodine number, methylene blue, particle size analysis, COD and BOD respectively. The activated carbon characterized by using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the small pore size with higher surface area that indicates lower absorbency. FTIR analysis also revealed the presence of various types of functional groups during different activation temperatures. From EDX analysis, a negligible quantity of Na, K and S in 2.5 N H3PO4 almond activated carbons and in 2.5 N H2SO4 almond activated carbons there was a negligible quantity of Mg, Si, P and C and other elements were present.The X-ray diffraction pattern of the 2.5 N H2SO4 and2.5 N H3PO4 almondwere recorded at peak 25˚ and 29˚ respectively, and indicated the presence of amorphous structure of the activated carbon with the diffraction pattern of (002).In BET analysis; the surface area, pore radius and pore volume of 2.5 N H3PO4 was recorded as 16.14m2/g, 0.85nm and 0.029cc/g and in 2.5 N H2SO4 almond, it was 7 recorded 64.28m2/g, 0.72nm and 0.040cc/g respectively. Bulk density 4.533g/cm3, porosity 4.500%, ash content 0.176%, moisture contents 0.040%, methylene blue 123.667mg/g, pH 6.180, zero point charge 4.140pzc, particle size 310.333nm, iodine number 22.067m2/g of 2.5 N H3PO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon were recorded best compared to 1 N H3PO4 coconut (ball milling) and 2.5 N H3PO4 mustard (ball milling) activated carbon. The bulk density 5.233g/cm, porosity 3.633%, ash content 0.172%, moisture contents 0.071%, methylene blue 116.000mg/g, pH 6.973, zero point charge 6.460pzc, particle size 825.000nm, and iodine number 21.5333m2/g were also recorded best in 2.5 N H2SO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon metal complex dye effluent compared to 2.5 N H3PO4 rice bran (ball milling) and 2.5 N H2SO4 sesame (ball milling) activated carbon. The good absorbency was recorded 0.107 at 2.0% concentration and 90 minutesof contact time in 2.5 N H3PO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon acid dye effluent compared to 1 N H3PO4 coconut (ball milling) and 2.5 N H3PO4 mustard (ball milling) activated carbon. The pH and TDS of the effluent were recorded 4.523 and 2668.66mg/L, concentration 2.0% in 60 minutes, which were found to be best among the 1 N H3PO4 coconut (ball milling) and 2.5 N H3PO4 mustard (ball milling) activated carbon in acid dye effluent. The good absorbency was recorded 0.153 concentration 1.0% and 90 minutes of contact time in 2.5 N H2SO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon metal complex dye effluent compared to 2.5 N H3PO4 rice bran (ball milling) and 2.5 N H2SO4sesame (ball milling) activated carbon. The pH and TDS of the effluent were recorded best in5.233 and 2219.33mg/L, concentration 1.0% at 90 and 30 minutes respectively in 2.5 N H2SO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon metal complex dye effluent. Therefore, 2.5 N H3PO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon acid dye and 2.5 N H2SO4 almond (ball milling) activated carbon metal complex dye effluent proved to be an excellent oil cake for preparation of activated carbon in the textile dye industry and can be used as an alternative source for wastewater treatment. Keywords: Activated carbon, oil cake, wastewater effluent, FTIR, SEM, XRD, TDSThesisItem Open Access NANO FINISHES ON ERI SILK AND ITS UNION FABRICS(2019-07) Borah, Mamoni Probha; Kalita, Binita BaishyaNano science and nanotechnology are considered to be the key technology for the recent era. The “nano” in nano technology refers to the material or chemical with a particle size of one billionth of meter. In textiles & apparel product nanotechnology can be used to provide performance characteristic like water repellant, fire retardant, UVresistance, stain resistance etc.Nano finishing of fabrics with different nano particles made the fibers to achieved desirable hand, surface texture, color and other special aesthetic and functional properties.Water-repellent means not easily penetrated by water. Water repellent is a state characterized by the non-spreading of water globules on a textile material. Fabric flammability is an important textile issue. The goal of flame retardancy is to inhibit or suppress the combustion process acting chemically or physically in the solid, liquid or gas phases. Eri silk fiber, yarn and fabric are the most unexplored, underutilized sector in textile industry and tremendous scope for application of nano finishes with different functional and aesthetic end uses. Australian merino wool produces a yarn of good quality. Preparation of union fabric from wool with eri silk had reduced maintenance cost and more productivity in the subsequent processes, cost effective too.Union fabrics used for better serviceability of fabrics but are also used for improved appearance and hand. Surface modification through nanotechnology was used to impart unique properties to fibers and fabrics. Nano-finishing has been done on different fibers like cotton, polyester, and other blended fibers for different functional end uses. However, no research on the properties of apparel and ability for eri silk fabrics and its union fabrics after being treated with flame retardant and water repellency has been reported in the literature Therefore, an attempt was made and studied on “Nano Finishes of Eri Silk and Its Union Fabric” with the following objectives-Selection of suitable chemicals for fire retardant and water repellent finishes; Optimization of finishing methods for fire retardant and water repellent finishes and assessment of physico- chemical and functional properties of finished fabrics.For water repellant and fire retardant nano finishing the plain weave eri silk and union fabric woven from eri silk and wool yarn were selected. The nano silica particle from rice husk, titanium dioxide was selected for water repellant nano finish. For fire retardant nano finishing the nano clay and ammonium sulphamate were selected purposively. The nano particle from selected sources was applied in eri silk and union fabrics for water repellant and fire retardancy with and without polymer. For that, the optimization of application process was carried out where, different pH, concentrations of nano particles, material to liquor ration and application methods were optimized on the basis of drop test and 45° Inclined flammability test . The optimized condition for nano finishing on selected fabrics were done and evaluated for its physico-chemical and mechanical properties by using standard methods. The properties like fabric count, thickness, crease recovery bending length, tensile strength, elongation, stress, drapability, air permeability, wicking heights etc were accessed. The analytical properties like drop test, spray test, optical contact angle, were done for water repellency test and 45° inclined, Flammability test & limiting oxygen index was done for fire retardancy test. Apart from that particle size analysis, SEM, EDS etc was also carried out. The particles size analyzer confirmed that the chemical and natural sources that used for imparting nano finish in eri silk and union fabrics are nano in size which is less than 10000nm. From the study it was found that by using the optimized conditions for nano finishing of eri silk and its union fabric for functional finish with nano silica, titanium dioxide, nano clay and ammonium sulphamate with and without polymer the water repellency and fire retardancy properties have been successfully achieved. From SEM, it was found that the nanoparticles are penetrate uniformly inside in the fibers matrix and form a thin film on the surface of the fabrics leading to water repellency and fire retardancy of the treated fabrics and the EDS also confirmed the presence of nano particles elements are present in the treated fabric. For water repellency, the different standard tests are performed. Under drop test, it was observed that fabrics treated nano silica and titanium dioxide along with silicon polymer are more water repellant than without polymer. This was affirmed by optical contact angle showing above 150° means providing super hydrophobic fabric at higher percentage of nano particles, however it was also found that all the selected concentration showed hydrophobicity with water contact angle above 100° of contact angle. But after dry cleaning & washing the water repellency decreased to some extent but still at higher concentration, the water repellency was retained with contact angle above 100 degree. It was interesting to note that after abrasion the water repellency enhanced though some amount of distortion in fabric surface was observed. The enhancing in the water repellency may be attributed due to deposition of nano particles in the fabric surface forming a layer and inhibiting the water to penetrate. Other factors like weave structure, yarn twist and density also affecting the water repellency properties. The fire retardancy property of eri silk and union fabrics treated with optimized conditions for nano finishing with nano clay and ammonium sulphamate was carried out and the treated fabrics are evaluated for fire retardancy properties through 45° inclined flammability test & limiting oxygen index test. The char length and flame speed of treated samples were recorded and found that the control fabric burn entire length and the nano finished fabric took more flame speed to burn and the char length was found to be very less when expose to flame and also lesser than the fire retardant classified class I. II and III. The flame speed was also recorded very less compared to control fabric, self extinguishing property was observed and no afterglow was recorded after burning. Hence, the nano finished fabric with nano clay and ammonium sulphamate produced fire retardant fabrics. Through SEM and EDS, it was observed that the nano particles adhered in the fabric uniformly and forming a thin film of the surface of the fabric thereby prohibiting the fire to catch easily by the fabric. The LOI test also showed that the fire retardancy property was achieved successfully. All the treated fabric showed the good fire retardancy property. But at the higher percentage of nano particles concentration showed excellent flame retardancy with LOI value 28ThesisItem Open Access EVALUATION OF TWILL WEAVE FABRICS MADE OF BLENDED ERI-MODAL AND ERIACRYLIC YARNS SUITABLE FOR DIFFERENT DRESS DESIGNS(AAU, Jorhat, 2018-06) Boruah, Sunita; Kalita, Binita BaishyaDress designing has always been an important art and a well- designed garment has beauty and appropriateness, which makes it right for the wearer. To achieve a good fit, it is necessary to give attention to finer details such as fabric structure, individual proportion and contours. In textiles, fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs which are produced by different weaving techniques that enhance the look of aesthetic value of the apparels. Union fabrics are those, where fabrics are created with warp of one kind of yarn and weft of another yarn or blended yarn in one direction or both warp and weft direction of different blended yarn. Weaving of such fabrics has opened a new era with limitless possibilities in the field of textile, as well as in fashion world. The review of the literature suggested that there is an increased interest in blending of silk with other fibres but limited work has been done regarding blending of eri silk with modal and acrylic on commercial spinning system. Therefore, the investigation was carried out to “Evaluation of twill weaves fabrics made of blended eri-modal and eri-acrylic yarns suitable for different dress designs” with the objectives to blend the yarns in different proportions using selected fibres, to analyse the physical properties of selected fibres and yarns, to construct the union fabrics of different twill weaves using selected yarns, to assess the mechanical, comfort and tactile properties of woven fabrics, to design and construct different dresses based on the fabric properties and to take opinion on constructed dresses. The study was limited in three different types of fibres- eri silk, modal and acrylic and three blend proportions were selected, 30:70, 50:50 and70:30.The weaves were limited to only twill weave and derivatives of twill i.e. herringbone and diamond. The present study was conducted to analyze the physical and mechanical characteristics of fibre. The count and diameter of eri silk fiber were higher than modal and acrylic fiber. Whiteness index and the Initial Modulus were found to be highest in modal and lowest in eri-silk. Fibre density and moisture content observed maximum in eri silk followed by modal and acrylic. The tenacity and specific work of rupture of acrylic fibre was greater than modal and eri silk fibre. The results indicated that elongation per cent for eri silk is higher as compared to modal and acrylic fibre. Six developed yarns with varying proportions and one definite count (1/30s) with Z twist were prepared. From the study it was found that the physical and mechanical properties of yarn samples of both the controlled and blended were significant at 5% level of significance and all the samples were found to be different with each other. The developed twill, herringbone and diamond weaves woven fabrics were analyzed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Interaction among all the tested samples, the highest fabric count and cloth cover factor were observed in EA 30:70 with diamond weave in both direction. The fabric weight and thickness of all the controlled samples were in increasing trend as compared to union fabrics. Regarding the interaction between all the test fabrics in both the way i.e. warp and weft way controlled eri silk with diamond fabrics was exhibited highest mean value in stiffness, drape co-efficient and dimensional stability. Maximum mean value of flexural rigidity was observed in sample EM 30:70 and the crease recovery angle of all the test samples in both warp and weft direction was seen in sample EA 30:70 with twill weave.The highest wicking height in both the warp and weft direction was observed in controlled modal with diamond weave. Among all the test fabrics, EA 30:70 were exhibited highest values of tensile strength and loss in mass in warp and weft-way. The modal test fabrics with twill weave showing increase trend of air permeability and thermal conductivity. The maximum mean value of thermal insulation was observed in sample controlled acrylic with diamond weave. Subjective evaluations of union fabrics were done by 100 respondents to assess the fabrics visual inspection like appearance, lustre, handle, texture and suitability of products prepared from union fabrics. Respondent opined that all the woven samples have good appearance, soft in hand and smooth in texture. It was observed that cent percent of respondents found eri-modal blended union fabrics with three weaves were high in lustre. The rank order of preferences for the constructed dresses were evaluated by the respondents and it was interesting to note that the rank order of preferences for selection of dress designs and the constructed dresses were found to be similar. The costs of blended yarn were got reduced in comparison to that of 100 per cent eri-silk yarn and it was also observed that the cost of blended union fabrics of different proportion that got reduced in comparison to that of controlled eri silk fabrics.ThesisItem Open Access ANTIMICROBIAL EFFECT OF HERBAL PLANTS ON COTTON FABRICS(AAU, Jorhat, 2016-07) Choudhury, Swapna; Phukan, Ava RaniThe study comprises of an investigation on antimicrobial effect of herbal plants on cotton fabric. Antimicrobial finish on textiles is a large research focus in the textiles industry. The population explosion and the environmental pollution in the recent years forced the researchers to find new health and hygiene related products for the well being of mankind. The nuisance caused by microbes is numerous and the problem is still aggravated in tropical and subtropical regions. Pathogenic microorganisms transfer infectious diseases and develop lung related disorders. Mold and fungi cause staining, discolouration and degradation of textile substrates. The Antimicrobial textiles are becoming important to avoid cross infection by pathogenic microorganisms, especially bacteria to control the infestation by microbes and to arrest metabolism in microbes in order to reduce the formation of odor. Textiles for medical and hygienic use have become important areas in the textile industry. Therefore, to reduce/prevent infections, various antibacterial compounds have been used for all types of textiles. The solutions of disinfectant used are generally active in vitro, but, it is also necessary to know the effectiveness of disinfected cloths while in use. In the current study, eco-friendly natural antimicrobial finishes have been prepared from the plant extracts for textile application. Out of 35 plants having antimicrobial properties ten (10) nos. of plants have been selected on the basis of availability as well as knowing its antimicrobial function. The different parts of the plants such as root and leaf were extracted using different solvents like ethanol, methanol, acetone and aqueous solution. These extracts were tested by diffusion method against three isolated bacteria associated with cotton fabrics to confirm the antimicrobial activity. The durability of the fresh and aged extract up to 6 month with their effectiveness against all isolated bacteria were also examined. Finally five herbal extracts from Achyranthes aspera, Adhatoca vasica, Ageratum conyzoides, Bambusa tulda and Chromolaena odorata with methanol have been applied on cotton fabrics by direct application method. Different concentrations of herbal extracts (100%, 50%, 25%, 12.5%, 6.25% and 3.125%) were applied to 100% cotton material for developing antimicrobial finish on the material. All tests done on organisms showed results up to 25% concentration except Adhatoca vasica, which showed results up to 3.125% concentration (Isolate II) and Ageratum conyzoides showed results only at 100% concentration in case of isolate I. All the treatments with methanol extracts showed good antimicrobial properties. The wash durability of the fabrics up to 10(ten) wash cycles against bacteria were done to evaluate the durability of the finished fabrics. The results of the present study showed that the most susceptible bacteria were Bacillus clausii bacteria in all standard test methods. It has been observed that there is a decreasing trend on the antibacterial activity of the finish material with every wash cycle. The treated fabrics were then analyzed for physical properties such as stiffness, crease recovery angle, tensile strength, elongation, wicking height etc. Decrease in tensile strength was observed in both warp and weft direction which could be due to the various treatment given to the material. Results showed that the effect of Adhatoca vasica extract was stronger than other herbal extract used in the study. It was also observed from the research findings carried out by other research workers that the antimicrobial effect of plant extract varies from one plant to another and also from place to place. This may be due to many factors such as the effect of climate, soil composition, age and vegetation cycle of plant, quality, quantity and composition of extracted product and different bacterial strains.ThesisItem Open Access EFFECT OF STRUCTURAL DESIGN ON THE PERFORMANCE OF ERI-UNION FABRICS(AAU, Jorhat, 2017-07) Duarah, Pomima; Kaur, SatvinderThis study on “Effect of structural design on the performance of eri-union fabrics” was carried out with the following objectives: 1. To construct eri union fabrics of different structure using selected yarns. 2. To study the physical and comfort properties of the constructed fabrics. 3. To study the effect of laundering on the constructed fabrics. 4. To study the suitability of the fabrics for different garments. For the purpose of the study eri, red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used to construct the eri union fabrics on the fly shuttle handloom to create plain eri union fabrics and using jacquard attachment with jacquard accessories like lingoes, mail eye etc. to create patterned eri union fabrics. Eri was used as warp and red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used as weft. Five plain weave eri union fabrics and five patterned eri union fabrics were woven. The constructed eri union fabrics were tested with standard test methods for mechanical properties (weight, thickness, thread count, cover factor), physical properties (strength, elongation, pilling, abrasion, tearing, and stiffness) and comfort properties (absorption, wicking, air permeability, and thermal conductivity), drapability test done and analysed using suitable statistical techniques. Visual assessment was also done for the woven eri union fabrics with the help of a structured questionnaire. Opinion of the respondents was taken regarding the general appearance, lustre, and handle, texture of the woven eri union fabrics and also the effect of laundering on the fabrics. Findings revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics highly suitable for garments. Laundering did not show noticeable change in the fabric samples. Further, garments were designed and constructed using the woven patterned eri union fabrics and opinion of the respondents was taken on the suitability of the patterned fabrics for the garments which revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics are suitable for different garments.ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING AND CREATING OF APPARELS INSPIRED FROM TRADITIONAL MOTIFS OF MISHING COMMUNITY OF ASSAM(AAU, Jorhat, 2017-01) Chungkrang, Lizamoni; Phukan, Ava RaniDesigns are of great importance when it comes to give an enchanting and intriguing look to the textile products. Textile designing is full of creativity and scope with vast horizon, and is a demanding and emerging field. With the changing world of fashion, the field of textile demands for unique, different and fresh designs which give us the opportunity to use the adapted traditional motifs. Escalating demands of consumers requires modification in the fashion industry with respect to design, colour, style and technique. So, an attempt was made to designing apparels inspired from traditional motifs Mishing community of the Assam with following objectives- 1. To study and document the traditional motifs and designs of Mishing Community of Assam 2. To develop and create patterns for apparel using the existing motifs in a diversified way 3. To construct selected apparels for adolescents 4. To assess the consumer acceptability of the products. Through this study the investigator attempts to popularize the traditional textile motifs of Mishing community and its value addition to different apparels. To carry out the study, wide range of Mishing traditional textile motifs were documented and collected from six selected districts of Assam- Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Dibrugarh, Sibasagar, Jorhat and Golaghat through personal visit to common textile weavers. A preliminary study was conducted on the selection of the motifs. A set of fifty two numbers of ladies and gents apparels suitable for adolescents were designed and sketched with different colour combination and placed the chosen motifs for their opinion. Out of fifty two, fourteen designs were selected based on the results of the survey conducted. The selected designs were: 1(W), 2(W), 3(F), 4(W), 5(E), 6(W), 6(F), 7(E), 8(B), 9(B), 10(W), 11(W), 12(W), and 13(W). For woven techniques, peg plans were prepared in REACH Tax Software for each and every motif and carried out the weaving process. For other three techniques, the patterns of motifs were developed in Coral Draw Software. The basic blocks were prepared and drafted based on the standardized body measurements. The cost of each constructed garments were calculated by considering the cost of material, cost of accessories used, labour cost and the profit. The constructed apparels with different techniques were: Tunic (woven), Short summer dress (woven), Long gown (fabric painting), Top and Capri (woven), Palazzo (embroidery), Kurti (woven), Kurti (fabric painting), Fitted skirt and top (embroidery), Stole (block printing), Mekhela chadar (block printing), Neck tie (woven), Gent’s formal shirt (woven), Nehru jacket (woven) and Gent’s waist jacket (woven). The constructed apparels were displayed at the Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, Faculty of Home Science, AAU, Jorhat and systematically evaluated by a panel of 50 judges including staff members and Ph.D scholars based on criteria’s like proper placement of the motifs, forms of existing motifs, colour combination, fitness and overall appearance of the apparel. The constructed apparels were again evaluated by 50 consumers from different fields of textiles, to assess the consumer’s acceptability in terms of general appearance, design of the apparel, colour combination of the apparels, selection of the traditional motif, arrangement of the motif, colour combination of the motifs. The evaluation was carried out in Faculty of Home Science, Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat-13, Department of Fashion Technology, Women’s University, Jorhat and Jorhat market, including faculty members; Post graduate students, Ph.D scholars and Fashion designers. The evaluation was carried out with the help of a structured questionnaire. From the results of the survey, majority of the respondents rated as excellent in terms of general appearance, design of apparels, colour combination, selection of the motifs, techniques used for developing the motifs, arrangement of the motifs and overall appearance of the constructed apparel. They also stated that all selected motifs were nicely incorporated in the respective apparels with exclusive colour combinations. Among all the 14 numbers of constructed apparel, the Design No. 1(W) was rated 1st rank whereas Design No. 6(F), 12(W), 10(W), 11(W), 8(B), 6(W), 3(D), 13(W), 5(E), 9(B), 2(W), 4(W) and 7(E) were rated rank from 2nd to 14th respectively. From the above findings it can be concluded that it is possible to develop new and interesting designs from the existing Mishing traditional motifs to meet the excessive demands of contemporary designs in the fashion and apparel fields and also increase the variety of designs in the field of textiles. This study will help the fashion designers for creating more innovative ideas in the field of fashion designing and also it will help the motivates people to come up with an ingenious work, which indirectly help in upgrading the art and craft of Assam as well as India’s.
