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Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat
Assam Agricultural University is the first institution of its kind in the whole of North-Eastern Region of India. The main goal of this institution is to produce globally competitive human resources in farm sectorand to carry out research in both conventional and frontier areas for production optimization as well as to disseminate the generated technologies as public good for benefitting the food growers/produces and traders involved in the sector while emphasizing on sustainability, equity and overall food security at household level.
Genesis of AAU -
The embryo of the agricultural research in the state of Assam was formed as early as 1897 with the establishment of the Upper Shillong Experimental Farm (now in Meghalaya) just after about a decade of creation of the agricultural department in 1882. However, the seeds of agricultural research in today’s Assam were sown in the dawn of the twentieth century with the establishment of two Rice Experimental Stations, one at Karimganj in Barak valley in 1913 and the other at Titabor in Brahmaputra valley in 1923. Subsequent to these research stations, a number of research stations were established to conduct research on important crops, more specifically, jute, pulses, oilseeds etc. The Assam Agricultural University was established on April 1, 1969 under The Assam Agricultural University Act, 1968’ with the mandate of imparting farm education, conduct research in agriculture and allied sciences and to effectively disseminate technologies so generated. Before establishment of the University, there were altogether 17 research schemes/projects in the state under the Department of Agriculture. By July 1973, all the research projects and 10 experimental farms were transferred by the Government of Assam to the AAU which already inherited the College of Agriculture and its farm at Barbheta, Jorhat and College of Veterinary Sciences at Khanapara, Guwahati.
Subsequently, College of Community Science at Jorhat (1969), College of Fisheries at Raha (1988), Biswanath College of Agriculture at Biswanath Chariali (1988) and Lakhimpur College of Veterinary Science at Joyhing, North Lakhimpur (1988) were established. Presently, the University has three more colleges under its jurisdiction, viz., Sarat Chandra Singha College of Agriculture, Chapar, College of Horticulture, Nalbari & College of Sericulture, Titabar. Similarly, few more regional research stations at Shillongani, Diphu, Gossaigaon, Lakhimpur; and commodity research stations at Kahikuchi, Buralikson, Tinsukia, Kharua, Burnihat and Mandira were added to generate location and crop specific agricultural production packages.
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ThesisItem Open Access RESURGENCE OF TRADITIONAL ASSAMESE MOTIFS: THEIR APPLICATION IN CONTEMPORARY INDIAN WOMEN’S WEAR(2021) Nath, Dristirupa; Kaur, SatvinderThe present study on “Resurgence of Traditional Assamese Motifs: Their Application in Contemporary Indian Women’s Wear” was carried out with the following objectives 1. To design and develop different yoke styles for women’s kurtis, 2. To select suitable traditional Assamese motifs for the yokes, 3. To develop the yokes and construct kurtis using the developed yokes, 4. To take the opinion of respondents on the constructed kurtis. Fifteen (15) yoke styles were sketched and among them seven (7) yoke styles were selected in consultation with the major advisor. The traditional Assamese motifs were collected from various primary and secondary sources and seven (7) traditional Assamese motifs were selected in consultation with the major advisor. The motifs were developed manually on individual sheets of graph paper. Then the selected seven (7) yoke styles and seven (7) traditional Assamese motifs were evaluated visually by 50 respondents of Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat. The respondents were asked to give their order of preferences regarding Yoke styles (shape of the yoke) suitable for using traditional Assamese motifs and Traditional Assamese motifs suitable for use on yoke through schedule I. The data was collected using the rating sheets and final three (3) yoke styles and three (3) motifs were short listed for the study. The motifs were placed differently for the different yoke styles. Total nine (9) yokes (3 yoke styles × 3 motifs) were developed on graph paper and woven on handloom. Greenish yellow and green coloured yarns were selected for the yoke and yellow coloured fabric was selected for the kurti. These three colours belong to the analogous colour scheme. Polyester yarn of count number 60/2 locally called padmini was used for weaving of the yokes. After weaving, yoke shapes were cut and finished with a bias binding. For construction of kurtis, a girl of 34 inch (85 cm) bust measurement was selected as a model and her measurements were taken for construction of the basic bodice block. Nine (9) kurtis with the developed hand woven yokes were stitched using plain weave lizzy bizzy fabric. The kurtis were constructed by following proper methods of economical layout, cutting and stitching. The constructed kurtis were then displayed and data was collected using the interview schedule II prepared for the purpose. Number of respondents was 50 women from Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat. As per data from the interview schedule I, Yoke No. 1 got rank 1, Yoke No. 4 got rank 2 and Yoke No. 2 got rank 3 and these were selected for developing the designs further. Findings also highlighted that Motif No. 5 obtained rank 1, Motif No. 2 obtained rank 2 and Motif No. 6 obtained rank 3 and these were selected for developing the patterns for the selected yoke styles. Data from interview schedule II revealed that majority of the respondents found all the yoke styles as excellent. None of the respondents found the yoke styles as poor. Regarding overall appearance of the constructed kurtis with hand woven yoke, all the kurtis were preferred by majority of the respondents. It was observed that majority of the respondents found the cost of the kurti in all the forms as reasonable. A few of the respondents found it as fair and very few of the respondents found it as expensive. The findings also showed that Kurti Design No. 1 obtained 1st rank, Kurti Design no. 6 obtained 2nd rank and Kurti Design No. 5 obtained 3rd rank. It was found that Kurti Design No. 2 got 4th rank and Kurti Design No. 3 got 5th rank. Kurti Design No. 4, Kurti Design No. 7, Kurti Design No. 8 and Kurti Design No. 9 got the rank 6th, 7th 8th and 9th respectively. Data also revealed that high majority of the respondents would like to buy the yoke pieces/yokes/kurtis whereas very few of the respondents did not want to buy the yoke pieces/yokes/kurtis. It was found that half of the total respondents would like to buy stitched kurti, very few respondents wanted to buy only the woven fabric pieces and yoke with strips for sleeves.ThesisItem Open Access Optimization of extraction and dyeing parameters of Lac dye from Kerria chinensis (Mahd.) on cotton(2021) Baruah, Sourav; Boruah, Rickey RaniThe present investigation entitled "Optimization of extraction and dyeing parameters of Lac dye from Kerria chinensis(Mahd.) on cotton”was conducted during the year 2019-21.In this study dyeing of cotton was done using Lac dye from species K. Chinensiswith the following objectives. 1. Standardization (optimization) of extraction and dyeing parameters of Lac dye. 2. Evaluation of the colour fastness properties of dyed cotton yarn. Natural dyes are emerging globally as eco-friendly colourant. The greater part of natural dye is vegetable dye obtained from plant source but there are dyes also obtained from insects e.g., Lac Dye. Lac is an animal originated insect dye which is found in India. They can also produce variety shades of colour. During the investigation,HCI, water and Na2CO3were used for acidic, aqueous and alkaline extraction method respectively. Result showed that the optimum extraction was 10% for each medium at 60°C for 60 minutes, 90°C for 100 minutes and 40°C for 75 minutes in acidic, aqueous and alkaline medium respectively. The natural colourant extracted from Lac insect (Kerria chinensis), was utilized for colouration of cotton yarn and their dyeing properties were investigated. Four different mordants such as alum, myrobalan, aluminium sulphate and ferrous sulphate were used on cotton yarns at different concentrations with pre, simultaneous and post-mordanting method to assess the colour fastness properties of the dyed samples. Results showed that, mordant has a significant effect on the colour of yarns and fastness properties were influenced by the type of mordants used. Lac dye showed burgundy to purple colour with mordant alum and orange to red orange colour with mordant aluminium sulphate, faded red in mordant myrobalan and ferrous sulphate shows dark grey colour on cotton yarn in different medium. Alum mordant showed more excellence in physical properties of dyed yarn while aluminium sulphate shows more excellence in colour fastness. Dyed cotton yarn exhibited the best colour fastness range from very fair to good with aluminium sulphate mordant. The cotton yarn samples dyed with alum was found to be better than myrobalan, aluminium sulphate, and ferrous sulphate in respect of tenacity (g/tex), wicking height (cm) and moisture regain (%). Cotton yarn samples mordanted with myrobalan showed highest density, wicking height and moisture regain. The myrobalan mordanted dyed cotton yarn showed highest tenacity and elongation.ThesisItem Open Access ENZYMATIC EXTRACTION AND PROCESSING OF NON-CONVENTIONAL FIBER FROM BETEL NUT (ARECA CATECHU)(AAU, Jorhat, 2021) Bora, Debangana Priya; Kalita, Binita B.The search for efficient and green oxidation technologies has increased to replace the conventional non-biological methods. In the present investigation an efforts have been made to treat the areca husk fiber with cellulose enzyme as a suitable and eco-friendly alternative to chemical processing for achieving desired softness in areca husk fiber. Enzymes treatment removed the protruding hairs on the surface, enhances the water absorbency and also makes the fiber more soften. Among the different existing enzymes, cellulase have been using intensively in textile industry due to their advantageous property. Cellulase enzymes have become an efficient tool for finishing. Moreover, this enzyme can be used to modify the surface properties of the fiber. Utilization of agro waste material is an important means to conserve the environment from dumping large quantity in to bare lands and it also helps in new innovative product development from low cost materials. In the present study, well matured areca nut husk were collected in large quantities and the fiber was extracted by water retting method. Extracted fibers were treated with two cellulase enzymes (acid cellulase and cellulase).The physical, chemical and mechanical properties of treated and untreated areca nut husk fiber were studied. The fiber shows good cellulase and hemicelluloses content and little amount of ash and wax content. The surface morphology is examined with the help of SEM at various magnifications. Fiber is found to be shorter in length and has good strength properties. Moisture and density of the fiber is also analyzed. After that both the enzyme treated and raw areca nut husk fiber processed for composite board preparation. The prepared composite boards were tested for various performance properties. It was found that after the enzyme treatment, physical properties such as moisture regain, fiber diameter, water absorbency, wicking height etc and mechanical properties viz., elongation, density and surface characteristics were improved as compared to untreated fiber. Moreover, enzyme treated fiber reinforced composite board also provide higher physical and mechanical property as compared to untreated fiber reinforced composite board. This can be concluded from the study that the prepared composite board made of areca husk fibers is suitable for interior use as well as furnishing products and sports equipment.ThesisItem Open Access AN EMPIRICAL STUDY ON PROFILE OF HANDLOOMS OF JORHAT DISTRICT OF ASSAM(AAU, Jorhat, 2021) Saikia, Milan; Kaur, SatvinderThe present investigation entitled “An empirical study on profile of Handlooms of Jorhat district of Assam” was conducted during the year 2019-2021 to study about Handlooms types, parts, accessories and their functions, technological changes in the Handlooms with following objectives: 1. To study the different types of Handlooms available in Jorhat District of Assam. 2. To explore the parts, accessories of handlooms and their functions. 3. To examine the recent technological changes occurred in the loom. Handloom weaving of Assam had a long tradition in the socio-economic life of the people in supplementing the family income to a great extent. It also gave self-employment opportunity to the rural people. It had significant role in the state economy next to the agriculture. The current research took place in Jorhat district of Assam. Jorhat has two sub-divisions i.e., Jorhat and Titabor, and both were selected for the study. Six development blocks from the two sub-divisions were selected for the present study. Two villages from each block and ten weavers from each of village were selected in order to collect primary information for the purpose of the study. An interview schedule was prepared consisting of five distinct parts i.e., the personal information of the respondent, the information of handlooms, parts and their function, accessories and their function of handloom and technological changes in handloom. Data was collected from the respondents with the help of this interview schedule through personal interview. Result showed that, highest percentage of the weavers were in the age group 35-44 years and no male member from all the twelve villages was found to be engaged in weaving activities. Majority of the respondents used throw shuttle pit loom followed by fly shuttle frame loom and 66.66% of the respondents used drawboy attachment and 5.00% of respondent used Jacquard attachment, but 28.33% respondents did not use any attachments. Frame material of loom for most of the respondent’s was bamboo. Hundred per cent of the respondents had the experience of working on the handloom and most of them had experienced from their teenage age. Most of the respondents did not improve their handloom but only a few improved their handloom. They, however, alter attachments, parts and accessories of Handloom when necessary.ThesisItem Open Access A Study on the Costumes of Meghalaya with special preferences to Jaintia tribes(AAU, Jorhat, 2021) Sumer, Hosanna; Phukan, Ava RaniA Study on traditional costume of Meghalaya with special preference to the Jaintia Tribewas conducted for the present study. The current research took place in Jaintia Hills District of Meghalaya. There are two sub-division in jaintia hills district; west and east of jaintia. Both of this division where chosen purposely for the researches work. A random sampling as well as the multistage method had been adopted to conduct this study. For this study three main villages were selected from both the east and the west district. From the west district Jowai, Nartiang, and Mihmyntdu were selected and from the east Khliehriat, wapung, and Ladrymbai village were selected. From the selected villages of the west district 30 samples were selected from Jowai, 10 samples from Nartiang, and 10 samples from Mihmyntdu, and from the east district 30 samples were selected from Khliehriat,10 samples from Wapung and 10 samples from Ladrymbai, and the total of 100 samples ware selected. Selected respondents were asked to answer the questions given in the questionnaire. In this case three generation were selected for the study i.e. from the grand parent, parent, and children of both male and female. To get a clear interpretation of the picture of the costumes worn by both male and female of the three generation i.e., the grand parent, parent, and children. It was divided into six categories on the basis of their sex which is given below; 1. Grand parent Group I - (a) Grand father (b) Grand mother 2. Parent Group II – (a) Father (b) Mother 3. Children Group III- (a) Son (b) Daughter The traditional dresses of the Jaintia males are yuslien, ka kamasa, putoi, sulapoh, yuspong, thad tawah ryndia tlem, and dresses used by the females are yusem thoh khyrwang, sari, ki yusem dhara, ki yusem nara, ki yusem muka, blouse, ki yusem thoh saru, ki yusem ryndia, thad kup Merina. The changes in these traditional costumes of both male and female from one generation to another has been notice in this study. Through this study we have seen the people’s way of life and adaptation and the documentation of the costume used by them, their weaving and its speciality will be of a great help to the future generations to learn more about the Jaintia tribes of Meghalaya and their existences, and also for the purpose of preserving their culture and traditional costumes.ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING READY TO ATTACH YOKES FOR KURTIS USING KANTHA EMBROIDERY(AAU, Jorhat, 2017-01) Borah, Pompy Jilly; Kaur, SatvinderYokes are horizontal divisions within a garment which may be functional or decorative. They are usually small, flat panels of fabric at the shoulder, waist, or midriff. Embroidered decorative yokes look attractive and are very much popular. The present study deals with designing ready to attach yokes for kurtis using kantha embroidery stitches. Kantha is the traditional form of embroidery of West Bengal. Running style stitch is used to create various patterns and details for this embroidery. Kantha is an indigenous household craft popular among the rural women in West Bengal. The traditional form of this embroidery is done on soft dhotis and saris. For the present study materials were collected from Jorhat town. The selected material for yoke was one coloured plain weave fine casement fabric. Cotton lining fabric of the same colour was also selected. Black poplin material was selected for the bindings. Printed cotton fabric was selected for the kurtis. The investigator designed and embroidered 7 yokes using kantha embroidery. The yokes were finished with bias binding so that they were ready to be attached on kurtis. Seven constructed kurtis were displayed and views of college girls were taken with the help of an interview schedule. From the data collected it has been found that Design No. 4 was ranked 1st for style of the yoke and Design No. 2 was ranked 1st for the embroidery design and also for colour combination of embroidery design. However, when the overall final rank was calculated, Design No. 2 and 3 were ranked 1st, Design No. 4 was ranked 2nd, Design No. 1 was ranked 3rd, Design No. 5 and 7 were ranked 4th and Design No. 6 was ranked 5th.ThesisItem Open Access Blending of Hibiscus Cannabinus with Ramie for value added products(AAU, Jorhat, 2018-07) Kakoty, Ankita; Phukan, Ava RaniNatural fiber seems to be the most imminent alternative for chemically treated synthetic fibers. Products from natural fibers are now getting more and more preferred across the globe over synthetic fiber products which has less bio degradable characters and the manufacture of which add more to the carbon credit. India has a big role to play in such a situation by utilizing its large reservoir of fibers in the most diverse terrine of the country. One of the bast fiber Kenaf which is being selected for the study is a feasible source of cellulose which is economically viable and ecologically friendly which could be utilized for extraction of fiber. This study is an attempt to explore the possibilities of Kenaf fibers blending with Ramie fiber. Natural fiber blending with other fiber posses valuable properties and presently various diversified products are made from these fibers. Blending is done to produce fabrics with a better combination of performance characteristics in the product and to obtain better hand on fabric appearance. There is no perfect fiber. All fibers have good, fair and poor characteristics. Blending enables the technician to combine fibers so that the good qualities are emphasized and poor qualities are minimized. Efforts have been made in the present investigation to extract the fiber from Kenaf plant, and its blending with Ramie fiber and preparation of fabric for making diversified products. The physical and chemical properties of the fibers were evaluated accordingly. Kenaf and Ramie fibers were subjected to blending process at the ratio of Kenaf: Ramie 75:25, 50:50 and 25:75 to produce yarns. The physical properties such as twist, count, tenacity, elongation, wicking height, and density of blended yarns were evaluated and the blended proportion Kenaf: Ramie 75:25, 50:50 and 25:75 were feasible for producing fabric using the plain weave construction and used to produce value added products. The constructed fabrics were then analysed for mechanical properties such as fabric count, cover factor, fabric weight, thickness, stiffness and crease recovery. Also standard graphs on Scanning Electron microscopy (SEM) and Infrared test were done for both controlled and blended samples. The functional properties such as tensile strength, elongation, drapability, and wicking height, air permeability and tearing strength were also evaluated. The study on the fabric properties showed satisfactory results for both controlled and blended fabrics for textile use. Finally, value added products were prepared for the controlled and blended fabrics. Subjective evaluations of the products were done through visual assessment method and the respondents opined that, all the products were better suited according to type of the fabric which can be recommended for commercialization.ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING AND CONSTRUCTION OF SKIRTS FOR TEENAGE GIRLS(AAU, Jorhat, 2019-07) Sangma, Anchie Maliva A.; Baruah, BulbulA study was planned to design and construct skirts for teenagers of age group 18 - 19 years. The objectives were to standardize the body measurements required to construct basic skirt block, to develop design of skirts for teenagers, to construct skirts out of suitable fabrics based on preferences of teenagers and to assess the preferences of respondents regarding the constructed skirt. One hundred samples of teenage girls (18 - 19 years) were selected to take body measurements from the Under Graduate class of Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat. A measurement sheet was prepared with all basic information and required measurements for construction of a skirt. After taking measurements the data were coded and analyzed carefully to find out the mode value of the measurements. The three numbers of basic skirt blocks were drafted by following instructions of Thomas (1993), Jindal (1998) and Sodhia (2005). The blocks were prepared by using the standard body measurements. The constructed basic skirts were tried on the body of teenage girl whose measurements were nearest to the mode value and fitting was observed under the supervision of major advisor. Out of the three basic skirt blocks, the block drafted by following the instruction given by Thomas (1993), gave a satisfactory result and it was used to construct the skirts of different designs. Total thirty numbers of designs were drawn on chart paper. To develop the designs, the investigator took the help of magazines, books, advertisement, etc. The skirt top was kept constant for all the skirts. On the chart paper the developed design of the skirts were colored so that they appear prominently. The thirty designs were displayed infront of teenage girls for their preferences. With the help of rank order eight designs were selected and constructed using suitable material. The constructed skirts were tried on the model to see the fitting of the skirts and photographs were taken for front and back view of the model. Again the preferences of teenagers were taken through interview schedule. The interview schedule covered the points like design, color combination, decoration, material used, fasteners used, finishes, fitting of the skirts etc. The rank orders of preferences of constructed skirts were found out. Data were coded and analyzed. The cost estimation of each skirt was found out.
