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Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat

Assam Agricultural University is the first institution of its kind in the whole of North-Eastern Region of India. The main goal of this institution is to produce globally competitive human resources in farm sectorand to carry out research in both conventional and frontier areas for production optimization as well as to disseminate the generated technologies as public good for benefitting the food growers/produces and traders involved in the sector while emphasizing on sustainability, equity and overall food security at household level. Genesis of AAU - The embryo of the agricultural research in the state of Assam was formed as early as 1897 with the establishment of the Upper Shillong Experimental Farm (now in Meghalaya) just after about a decade of creation of the agricultural department in 1882. However, the seeds of agricultural research in today’s Assam were sown in the dawn of the twentieth century with the establishment of two Rice Experimental Stations, one at Karimganj in Barak valley in 1913 and the other at Titabor in Brahmaputra valley in 1923. Subsequent to these research stations, a number of research stations were established to conduct research on important crops, more specifically, jute, pulses, oilseeds etc. The Assam Agricultural University was established on April 1, 1969 under The Assam Agricultural University Act, 1968’ with the mandate of imparting farm education, conduct research in agriculture and allied sciences and to effectively disseminate technologies so generated. Before establishment of the University, there were altogether 17 research schemes/projects in the state under the Department of Agriculture. By July 1973, all the research projects and 10 experimental farms were transferred by the Government of Assam to the AAU which already inherited the College of Agriculture and its farm at Barbheta, Jorhat and College of Veterinary Sciences at Khanapara, Guwahati. Subsequently, College of Community Science at Jorhat (1969), College of Fisheries at Raha (1988), Biswanath College of Agriculture at Biswanath Chariali (1988) and Lakhimpur College of Veterinary Science at Joyhing, North Lakhimpur (1988) were established. Presently, the University has three more colleges under its jurisdiction, viz., Sarat Chandra Singha College of Agriculture, Chapar, College of Horticulture, Nalbari & College of Sericulture, Titabar. Similarly, few more regional research stations at Shillongani, Diphu, Gossaigaon, Lakhimpur; and commodity research stations at Kahikuchi, Buralikson, Tinsukia, Kharua, Burnihat and Mandira were added to generate location and crop specific agricultural production packages.

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20173
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Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × End date: 2017 × Start date: 2017 × Type: Thesis ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    DESIGNING READY TO ATTACH YOKES FOR KURTIS USING KANTHA EMBROIDERY
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2017-01) Borah, Pompy Jilly; Kaur, Satvinder
    Yokes are horizontal divisions within a garment which may be functional or decorative. They are usually small, flat panels of fabric at the shoulder, waist, or midriff. Embroidered decorative yokes look attractive and are very much popular. The present study deals with designing ready to attach yokes for kurtis using kantha embroidery stitches. Kantha is the traditional form of embroidery of West Bengal. Running style stitch is used to create various patterns and details for this embroidery. Kantha is an indigenous household craft popular among the rural women in West Bengal. The traditional form of this embroidery is done on soft dhotis and saris. For the present study materials were collected from Jorhat town. The selected material for yoke was one coloured plain weave fine casement fabric. Cotton lining fabric of the same colour was also selected. Black poplin material was selected for the bindings. Printed cotton fabric was selected for the kurtis. The investigator designed and embroidered 7 yokes using kantha embroidery. The yokes were finished with bias binding so that they were ready to be attached on kurtis. Seven constructed kurtis were displayed and views of college girls were taken with the help of an interview schedule. From the data collected it has been found that Design No. 4 was ranked 1st for style of the yoke and Design No. 2 was ranked 1st for the embroidery design and also for colour combination of embroidery design. However, when the overall final rank was calculated, Design No. 2 and 3 were ranked 1st, Design No. 4 was ranked 2nd, Design No. 1 was ranked 3rd, Design No. 5 and 7 were ranked 4th and Design No. 6 was ranked 5th.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    EFFECT OF STRUCTURAL DESIGN ON THE PERFORMANCE OF ERI-UNION FABRICS
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2017-07) Duarah, Pomima; Kaur, Satvinder
    This study on “Effect of structural design on the performance of eri-union fabrics” was carried out with the following objectives: 1. To construct eri union fabrics of different structure using selected yarns. 2. To study the physical and comfort properties of the constructed fabrics. 3. To study the effect of laundering on the constructed fabrics. 4. To study the suitability of the fabrics for different garments. For the purpose of the study eri, red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used to construct the eri union fabrics on the fly shuttle handloom to create plain eri union fabrics and using jacquard attachment with jacquard accessories like lingoes, mail eye etc. to create patterned eri union fabrics. Eri was used as warp and red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used as weft. Five plain weave eri union fabrics and five patterned eri union fabrics were woven. The constructed eri union fabrics were tested with standard test methods for mechanical properties (weight, thickness, thread count, cover factor), physical properties (strength, elongation, pilling, abrasion, tearing, and stiffness) and comfort properties (absorption, wicking, air permeability, and thermal conductivity), drapability test done and analysed using suitable statistical techniques. Visual assessment was also done for the woven eri union fabrics with the help of a structured questionnaire. Opinion of the respondents was taken regarding the general appearance, lustre, and handle, texture of the woven eri union fabrics and also the effect of laundering on the fabrics. Findings revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics highly suitable for garments. Laundering did not show noticeable change in the fabric samples. Further, garments were designed and constructed using the woven patterned eri union fabrics and opinion of the respondents was taken on the suitability of the patterned fabrics for the garments which revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics are suitable for different garments.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    DESIGNING AND CREATING OF APPARELS INSPIRED FROM TRADITIONAL MOTIFS OF MISHING COMMUNITY OF ASSAM
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2017-01) Chungkrang, Lizamoni; Phukan, Ava Rani
    Designs are of great importance when it comes to give an enchanting and intriguing look to the textile products. Textile designing is full of creativity and scope with vast horizon, and is a demanding and emerging field. With the changing world of fashion, the field of textile demands for unique, different and fresh designs which give us the opportunity to use the adapted traditional motifs. Escalating demands of consumers requires modification in the fashion industry with respect to design, colour, style and technique. So, an attempt was made to designing apparels inspired from traditional motifs Mishing community of the Assam with following objectives- 1. To study and document the traditional motifs and designs of Mishing Community of Assam 2. To develop and create patterns for apparel using the existing motifs in a diversified way 3. To construct selected apparels for adolescents 4. To assess the consumer acceptability of the products. Through this study the investigator attempts to popularize the traditional textile motifs of Mishing community and its value addition to different apparels. To carry out the study, wide range of Mishing traditional textile motifs were documented and collected from six selected districts of Assam- Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Dibrugarh, Sibasagar, Jorhat and Golaghat through personal visit to common textile weavers. A preliminary study was conducted on the selection of the motifs. A set of fifty two numbers of ladies and gents apparels suitable for adolescents were designed and sketched with different colour combination and placed the chosen motifs for their opinion. Out of fifty two, fourteen designs were selected based on the results of the survey conducted. The selected designs were: 1(W), 2(W), 3(F), 4(W), 5(E), 6(W), 6(F), 7(E), 8(B), 9(B), 10(W), 11(W), 12(W), and 13(W). For woven techniques, peg plans were prepared in REACH Tax Software for each and every motif and carried out the weaving process. For other three techniques, the patterns of motifs were developed in Coral Draw Software. The basic blocks were prepared and drafted based on the standardized body measurements. The cost of each constructed garments were calculated by considering the cost of material, cost of accessories used, labour cost and the profit. The constructed apparels with different techniques were: Tunic (woven), Short summer dress (woven), Long gown (fabric painting), Top and Capri (woven), Palazzo (embroidery), Kurti (woven), Kurti (fabric painting), Fitted skirt and top (embroidery), Stole (block printing), Mekhela chadar (block printing), Neck tie (woven), Gent’s formal shirt (woven), Nehru jacket (woven) and Gent’s waist jacket (woven). The constructed apparels were displayed at the Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, Faculty of Home Science, AAU, Jorhat and systematically evaluated by a panel of 50 judges including staff members and Ph.D scholars based on criteria’s like proper placement of the motifs, forms of existing motifs, colour combination, fitness and overall appearance of the apparel. The constructed apparels were again evaluated by 50 consumers from different fields of textiles, to assess the consumer’s acceptability in terms of general appearance, design of the apparel, colour combination of the apparels, selection of the traditional motif, arrangement of the motif, colour combination of the motifs. The evaluation was carried out in Faculty of Home Science, Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat-13, Department of Fashion Technology, Women’s University, Jorhat and Jorhat market, including faculty members; Post graduate students, Ph.D scholars and Fashion designers. The evaluation was carried out with the help of a structured questionnaire. From the results of the survey, majority of the respondents rated as excellent in terms of general appearance, design of apparels, colour combination, selection of the motifs, techniques used for developing the motifs, arrangement of the motifs and overall appearance of the constructed apparel. They also stated that all selected motifs were nicely incorporated in the respective apparels with exclusive colour combinations. Among all the 14 numbers of constructed apparel, the Design No. 1(W) was rated 1st rank whereas Design No. 6(F), 12(W), 10(W), 11(W), 8(B), 6(W), 3(D), 13(W), 5(E), 9(B), 2(W), 4(W) and 7(E) were rated rank from 2nd to 14th respectively. From the above findings it can be concluded that it is possible to develop new and interesting designs from the existing Mishing traditional motifs to meet the excessive demands of contemporary designs in the fashion and apparel fields and also increase the variety of designs in the field of textiles. This study will help the fashion designers for creating more innovative ideas in the field of fashion designing and also it will help the motivates people to come up with an ingenious work, which indirectly help in upgrading the art and craft of Assam as well as India’s.