Thumbnail Image

Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat

Assam Agricultural University is the first institution of its kind in the whole of North-Eastern Region of India. The main goal of this institution is to produce globally competitive human resources in farm sectorand to carry out research in both conventional and frontier areas for production optimization as well as to disseminate the generated technologies as public good for benefitting the food growers/produces and traders involved in the sector while emphasizing on sustainability, equity and overall food security at household level. Genesis of AAU - The embryo of the agricultural research in the state of Assam was formed as early as 1897 with the establishment of the Upper Shillong Experimental Farm (now in Meghalaya) just after about a decade of creation of the agricultural department in 1882. However, the seeds of agricultural research in today’s Assam were sown in the dawn of the twentieth century with the establishment of two Rice Experimental Stations, one at Karimganj in Barak valley in 1913 and the other at Titabor in Brahmaputra valley in 1923. Subsequent to these research stations, a number of research stations were established to conduct research on important crops, more specifically, jute, pulses, oilseeds etc. The Assam Agricultural University was established on April 1, 1969 under The Assam Agricultural University Act, 1968’ with the mandate of imparting farm education, conduct research in agriculture and allied sciences and to effectively disseminate technologies so generated. Before establishment of the University, there were altogether 17 research schemes/projects in the state under the Department of Agriculture. By July 1973, all the research projects and 10 experimental farms were transferred by the Government of Assam to the AAU which already inherited the College of Agriculture and its farm at Barbheta, Jorhat and College of Veterinary Sciences at Khanapara, Guwahati. Subsequently, College of Community Science at Jorhat (1969), College of Fisheries at Raha (1988), Biswanath College of Agriculture at Biswanath Chariali (1988) and Lakhimpur College of Veterinary Science at Joyhing, North Lakhimpur (1988) were established. Presently, the University has three more colleges under its jurisdiction, viz., Sarat Chandra Singha College of Agriculture, Chapar, College of Horticulture, Nalbari & College of Sericulture, Titabar. Similarly, few more regional research stations at Shillongani, Diphu, Gossaigaon, Lakhimpur; and commodity research stations at Kahikuchi, Buralikson, Tinsukia, Kharua, Burnihat and Mandira were added to generate location and crop specific agricultural production packages.

Browse

20181
Reset filters
Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × Author: Boruah, Sunita × End date: 2018 × Type: Thesis × Thesis Type: Ph.D ×
Reset filters

Search Results

Now showing 1 - 1 of 1
  • Thumbnail Image
    ThesisItemOpen Access
    EVALUATION OF TWILL WEAVE FABRICS MADE OF BLENDED ERI-MODAL AND ERIACRYLIC YARNS SUITABLE FOR DIFFERENT DRESS DESIGNS
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2018-06) Boruah, Sunita; Kalita, Binita Baishya
    Dress designing has always been an important art and a well- designed garment has beauty and appropriateness, which makes it right for the wearer. To achieve a good fit, it is necessary to give attention to finer details such as fabric structure, individual proportion and contours. In textiles, fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs which are produced by different weaving techniques that enhance the look of aesthetic value of the apparels. Union fabrics are those, where fabrics are created with warp of one kind of yarn and weft of another yarn or blended yarn in one direction or both warp and weft direction of different blended yarn. Weaving of such fabrics has opened a new era with limitless possibilities in the field of textile, as well as in fashion world. The review of the literature suggested that there is an increased interest in blending of silk with other fibres but limited work has been done regarding blending of eri silk with modal and acrylic on commercial spinning system. Therefore, the investigation was carried out to “Evaluation of twill weaves fabrics made of blended eri-modal and eri-acrylic yarns suitable for different dress designs” with the objectives to blend the yarns in different proportions using selected fibres, to analyse the physical properties of selected fibres and yarns, to construct the union fabrics of different twill weaves using selected yarns, to assess the mechanical, comfort and tactile properties of woven fabrics, to design and construct different dresses based on the fabric properties and to take opinion on constructed dresses. The study was limited in three different types of fibres- eri silk, modal and acrylic and three blend proportions were selected, 30:70, 50:50 and70:30.The weaves were limited to only twill weave and derivatives of twill i.e. herringbone and diamond. The present study was conducted to analyze the physical and mechanical characteristics of fibre. The count and diameter of eri silk fiber were higher than modal and acrylic fiber. Whiteness index and the Initial Modulus were found to be highest in modal and lowest in eri-silk. Fibre density and moisture content observed maximum in eri silk followed by modal and acrylic. The tenacity and specific work of rupture of acrylic fibre was greater than modal and eri silk fibre. The results indicated that elongation per cent for eri silk is higher as compared to modal and acrylic fibre. Six developed yarns with varying proportions and one definite count (1/30s) with Z twist were prepared. From the study it was found that the physical and mechanical properties of yarn samples of both the controlled and blended were significant at 5% level of significance and all the samples were found to be different with each other. The developed twill, herringbone and diamond weaves woven fabrics were analyzed for physical, mechanical and comfort properties. Interaction among all the tested samples, the highest fabric count and cloth cover factor were observed in EA 30:70 with diamond weave in both direction. The fabric weight and thickness of all the controlled samples were in increasing trend as compared to union fabrics. Regarding the interaction between all the test fabrics in both the way i.e. warp and weft way controlled eri silk with diamond fabrics was exhibited highest mean value in stiffness, drape co-efficient and dimensional stability. Maximum mean value of flexural rigidity was observed in sample EM 30:70 and the crease recovery angle of all the test samples in both warp and weft direction was seen in sample EA 30:70 with twill weave.The highest wicking height in both the warp and weft direction was observed in controlled modal with diamond weave. Among all the test fabrics, EA 30:70 were exhibited highest values of tensile strength and loss in mass in warp and weft-way. The modal test fabrics with twill weave showing increase trend of air permeability and thermal conductivity. The maximum mean value of thermal insulation was observed in sample controlled acrylic with diamond weave. Subjective evaluations of union fabrics were done by 100 respondents to assess the fabrics visual inspection like appearance, lustre, handle, texture and suitability of products prepared from union fabrics. Respondent opined that all the woven samples have good appearance, soft in hand and smooth in texture. It was observed that cent percent of respondents found eri-modal blended union fabrics with three weaves were high in lustre. The rank order of preferences for the constructed dresses were evaluated by the respondents and it was interesting to note that the rank order of preferences for selection of dress designs and the constructed dresses were found to be similar. The costs of blended yarn were got reduced in comparison to that of 100 per cent eri-silk yarn and it was also observed that the cost of blended union fabrics of different proportion that got reduced in comparison to that of controlled eri silk fabrics.