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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Development of ready-to-use yokes through digital embroidery(CCSHAU, 2018) Parmila; Yadav, NirmalDesigning textiles and apparel is an ancient craft of India which is one of the most demanding fields as it is full of scope for creativity. Designing includes new and existing techniques for applications of designs on textile items depending upon their end uses. In the garments various patterns are added to enhance the beauty of garments. Patterns may be embroidery, painting, tie & dye, finishes, setting of seams and addition of yoke in garment. A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders. Thus the present study was conducted to develop ready-to-use yokes using digital embroidery technique. The 150 cutwork motifs were collected from secondary sources and screened for their suitability to ready-to-use yokes as well as digital embroidery. The screened motifs were categorized in two categories viz. geometrical and floral motifs. The motifs were shown to the thirty experts to seek their preferences for selection of one third top preferred motifs from each category. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabrics and base colour of fabric for ready-to-use yokes. A total of forty five designs were developed using combination of two to four motifs/ parts of motifs and a single motif from one category or combining both the categories with their compatibility and harmony of selected thirty motifs with the help of CorelDRAW software. Five top raked designs were selected for placements. Created fifteen design placements were again shown to the experts and one preferred placement of each selected five designs was selected for product development. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were simulated and colour way that secured first rank was selected for digital embroidery. The selected five designs were transformed into digital form in embroidery software by assigning design size, stitch type, stitch length and stitch density to different parts of the design. Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery and cost of each ready-to-use yokes was calculated. The developed ready-to-use yokes were assessed on different parameters. Out of 90 screened motifs, thirty motifs selected for design development were motif number 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29, 33, 35 and 37 in geometrical category and motif number 6, 12, 14, 17, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 32, 40, 41, 43 and 44 in floral category of motifs. The top preferred five designs i.e. design number 4, 8, 25, 29 and 43 were selected for creation of design placements. The most preferred placement of selected five designs were placement II of design number 4 and 8, placement III of design number 25 and 29 and placement I of design number 43. The most preferred colour ways for digital embroidery on ready-to-use yokes were analogus in design number 4, complementary in design number 8 and 25, complementary triad in design number 29 and rectangular tetrad in design number 43.Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery technique using the most preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs on white cotton fabric using embroidery threads. All the developed ready-to-use yokes were found very appealing and highly accepted by consumers on all the parameters of assessment regarding suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development for ready-to-use yokes using cutwork motifs. The cost of the digital embroidered ready-to-use yokes was rated appropriate by majority of the consumers. Thus cutwork motifs adapted for designing ready-to-use yokes with the help of CAD/CAM technology and using digital embroidery technique enhance the range of the designing and productivity.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of enzymatic treatment on dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye(CCSHAU, 2018) Samant, Lata; Rose, Neelam M.Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. In the present time, commercially viable alternative methods for preparing and finishing cotton substrates based on the use of enzymes have emerged. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study has been planned to assess the effect of different enzyme treatments on dyeing efficiency of cotton for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of enzyme treatments for three enzymes i.e. acid cellulase, neutral cellulase and xylanase was done on the basis of dye absorption and wash fastness rating for different enzyme concentration and treatment conditions. The chemical and enzyme desized and scoured fabrics were pretreated with all the three enzymes and dyed with selected natural dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of enzyme treated fabrics and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of selected dye and enzyme treated samples were done. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the enzyme treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the enzyme treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between alkali and enzyme scoured fabrics treated with enzymes and dyed with natural dye. It was found that percent dye absorption and wash fastness of catechu (Acacia catechu) dye was higher for all the three enzymes as compared to manjistha dye on alkali and enzyme scoured samples, hence catechu dye was selected. The parameter optimized for enzyme treatment of alkali scoured fabric were 1 percent enzyme concentration, 1:25 M:L Ratio, 4, 7 and 7 pH, 55, 65 and 60°C treatment temperature and 30, 45 and 30 minutes treatment time for acid cellulase, neutral cellulase and xylanase respectively. All these treatment variables were same for the enzyme scoured fabric except 0.25 percent concentration for neutral cellulase and 60 minutes treatment time for all the enzymes. SEM analysis demonstrated smoother surface of enzyme treated sample and FTIR analysis revealed the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to enzyme treatment. All the three enzyme treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among all the enzyme treated dyed fabrics, neutral cellulase treated dyed fabric showed maximum decrease in bending length (2.87 cm) and friction (169.63 N) whereas xylanase treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (26.80%), crease recovery angle (94.39 degree), moisture regain (6.39%) and wickability (5.4 cm). The enzyme scoured xylanase treated and catechu dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (48.61) indicating excellent protection category while in alkali scoured xylanase treated dyed fabric UPF value was (37.22). The enzyme treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (96.81%) and S. aureus (98.42%). Thus it is concluded that enzyme treatments enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The enzyme pretreatment and catechu dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Hence the enzymes are suitable replacement materials for cotton fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.ThesisItem Open Access Adaptation of kathiawar embroidery motifs to fabric painting(CCSHAU, 2018) Pooja; Vivek SinghThe present study was conducted in Hisar district of Haryana state to explore the possibility of adaptation of kathiawar embroidery motifs to fabric painting. Seventy kathiawar embroidery motifs were collected personally from secondary sources like books, journals, and internet. The collected motifs were categorized as geometrical, floral, and animal & bird motifs and were screened into thirty motifs by advisory committee keeping in mind their suitability for fabric painting on jacket. These three categories included ten motifs each. Top ranked four motifs in each category were selected by experts for further research work. Maximum number of collected motifs were animal & bird motifs followed by floral motifs. A total of sixty designs were created using twelve selected motifs with the help of CorelDRAW software. Top ranked five designs were selected by experts by using a preferential choice index for design placements and colour ways. A total of five painted jackets were developed as per the selected designs, their placements and colour ways. Developed jackets were assessed by thirty consumers for their acceptability level on various parameters. Design number 3, 13 and 21 were highly acceptable designs while design number 45 and 46 were acceptable designs. Created designs, design placements, colour ways and fabric painting technique were highly acceptable parameters of all the designs by consumers. In terms of overall appearance, three jackets (design number 3, 13 and 21) were assessed as highly appealing and two jackets (design number 45 and 46) were assessed as appealing. Cost of all the developed jackets was considered „appropriate. Consumers had high opinion about all the designs of developed jackets as they were strongly agreed with all the opinion statements regarding suitability of created designs for product and technique, size and shape of created designs, design placements, colour schemes and overall appearance of the developed jacket with average scores ranging between 2.36 to 2.59. Expert had high opinion regarding adaptation of kathiawar embroidery for fabric painting as they strongly opined that fabric painting is easy in execution and has effectively replicated the effect of kathiawar embroidery to maintain its beauty. It is time saving and cost effective surface embellishment technique as per market trend with WMS ranging between 2.34-2.76. Thus, transformation of innovative designs of kathiawar embroidery into fabric painting has enhanced the range of designing and productivity.ThesisItem Open Access Efficacy of lemon peel extract for microbial resistance on cotton fabric(CCSHAU, 2018) Sushila; Arya, NishaThe present study was planned to apply anti-bacterial finish on cotton fabric by using lemon peels extract. To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, lemon peels extract was selected for finish application on cotton fabric. Pretreatment was given to cotton fabric and finish using standardized concentration of lemon peels extract was applied on the fabric with exhaust and pad dry cure methods. Lemon peels were extracted by cold aqueous maceration. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 19.6 % for lemon peels extract. Bacteria(Bacillus spp.)was selected for the present study. To study the effect of lemon peels extract, finished samples were tested for microbial resistance quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing of samples. The anti-bacterial finish applied with lemon peels extract by both methods i.e. exhaust and pad dry cure methods, was highly effective after 24 hours of inoculation against Bacillus spp. After 24 hours, anti-bacterial resistance gradually decreased and after 96 hours it reduced to 90.41% and 97.16% in cotton fabric sample finished by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. The cotton fabric sample finished with lemon peels extract by exhaust and pad dry cure methods exhibited cent percent wash durability after 24 hours of incubation in washed sample (one wash). After 24 hours, it gradually decreased and after 96 hours, it reduces to 89.24 % and 95.66% by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. Thus, there was continuous decrease in anti-bacterial activity with increase in incubation period after washing but even then anti-bacterial finish was actively retained in washed samples after 96 hours. It was further concluded that after inoculation of Bacillus spp. bacteria, microbes do not effect the physical properties of the finished samples heavily. Finished fabric was tested for physical properties and found that fabric weight, thickness, bulk and elongation of fabric were increased while fabric count, tensile strength, bending length, flexural rigidity, air permeability and moisture regain were decreased. After washing, physical properties of finished fabric were again investigated and found that fabric count, weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity and tensile strength of lemon peels extract finished sample decreased while elongation, air permeability and moisture regain increased. Conclusively, lemon peels extract was observed as an effective natural source for imparting anti-bacterial finish on textiles.ThesisItem Open Access Efficacy of kinnow peels extract for microbial resistance on cotton fabric(CCSHAU, 2018) Poonia, Neenu; Vivek SinghConsidering the significance of anti-microbial textiles, the kinnow peels extract finish was prepared and applied on cotton fabric. Efficacy of finish against anti-bacterial activity and washing was analyzed. The effect of finish and washing on physical properties of finished fabric and washed durability of finished fabric was also assessed. Extraction of kinnow peels was conducted by soxhlet method using optimized air dry powder weight and time-period The three concentrations 1mg/ml, 3mg/ml and 5mg/ml were tried for anti-bacterial activity against Bacillus spp. The 5mg/ml concentration exhibited strong zone of inhibition was selected for further research work. The kinnow peels extract was applied on woven cotton fabric by exhaust and pad dry cure method with 5g/l concentration. The anti-bacterial finish with 5g/l concentration of kinnow peels extract with dilution factor (107 and 108) was found cent percent effective after 24 hours of inoculation of Bacillus spp. After 24 hours percent bacterial reduction gradually decreased and after 96 hours, it reduced to 90.60% by exhaust and 96.78% by pad dry cure method. The kinnow peels extract finished samples exhibited cent percent wash durability after 24 hours of inoculation (one wash). After 24 hours, it gradually decreased and after 96 hours it reduced to 90.52% by exhaust method and 95.80% by pad dry cure method. Thus, there was continuous decrease in the anti-bacterial activity with an increase in incubation period after washing but even then the anti-bacterial finish was actively retained in washed samples after 96 hours. The cotton fabric samples finished by pad dry cure method exhibited higher anti-bacterial activity and wash durability as compared to exhaust method. There was remarkable increase in fabric count, weight per unit area, thickness, bulk, elongation, bending length and flexural rigidity and decrease in tensile strength, air permeability and moisture regain after the application of finish. After washing elongation, air permeability and moisture regain increased, while decrease in fabric count, weight per unit area, thickness, bulk, bending length and flexural rigidity tensile strength decreased. Almost similar trend was found in cotton fabric samples finished by pad dry cure method but samples finished by pad dry cure method exhibited more percent change as compare to sample finished by exhaust method. Conclusively, the kinnow peels extract finished fabrics exhibited excellent efficacy against anti-bacterial activity and washing.