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ThesisItem Open Access Functional Finishing of Organic Cotton Fabric Using Vetiver Extracts(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2017-06) Naikwadi, Sakeena; Sannapaamma K.J.ThesisItem Open Access Computer Aided Embroidery Motifs: An Inspiration from Heritage Carvings(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2017-06) Bagi, Priyanka Basavaraj; Vastrad, Jyoti V.ThesisItem Open Access Herbal Treated Antimicrobial Textiles for Medical Applications(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Byadgi, Shameembanu A.; Kulloli, Sadhana D.ThesisItem Open Access Ecofriendly Functional Finish for Textile Materials(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-05) Bahuguna, Archana; Naik, Shailaja D.Study on the possibility of treating cotton and polyester fabrics with plasma finish, surface morphology assessment and impact of washing on quality characteristics of plasma finished test samples was carried out during 2015-17 at Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad. Cotton was exposed to helium-oxygen along with hexamethyldisiloxane (HMDSO) monomer to introduce hydrophobicity and O2 gas to bring hydrophilicity in polyester. Flame retardancy was induced with He-O2 plasma treatment followed by flame retardant finish applying PYROVATEX® CP NEW (FR) and KNITTEX® FEL (melamine resin). Major alterations in fibre morphology observed were globular structure in cotton, abraded surface in polyester and microcracks in both, indicated bringing in hydrophobicity, hydrophilicity and flame retardancy, respectively. Furthermore, treated samples were subjected to 10 hand washings and evaluated for structural, performance, durable and functional properties after every 5th wash. Irrespective of the gases, improvement in softness, pliability, resiliency, dimensional stability, tensile strength and elongation percentage of test samples was due to sputtering, etching and cleaning action of plasma treatment. He-O2 plasma along with HMDSO monomer efficiently formulated cotton completely into hydrophobic (0 to 100 ratings) and hydrophilicity in polyester (80 to 0 ratings) by addition of more number of polar groups on oxygen plasma treatment. Similarly, increase in cloth count (1-2 %), thickness (12 %), corresponding GSM (14 % in cotton and 69 % in polyester) observed in post FR treated fabrics was due to deposition of FR agent into the micro-grooves formed due to plasma. Multiple washes showed alterations in values of hydrophobicity (100 to 50 ratings), hydrophilicity (0 to 50 ratings) and flame retardancy (DNI to 17-20 sec) but displayed greater influence of finish than control. Thus indicating efficiency of plasma treatment inducing a trend of water repellency, water absorption and flame resistance.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of Reactive Dyes on Silk Fabrics(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Patil, Savitri; Mahale, GeetaThe present study on “Effect of reactive dyes on silk fabrics” was carried out during 2015-2017 with the objectives to assess the effect of reactive dyes on performance properties of silk fabrics, to study the effect of laundering on functional properties of reactive dyed silk fabrics and finally estimate the cost calculation of reactive dyed silk fabrics. Four types of plain woven silk fabrics and five different solid pantone colours of Ramazol reactive dyes were selected to assess the physical and colourfastness properties. The results were analyzed applying suitable statistical tests. Results revealed that the cloth count, cloth thickness, crease recovery and drape coefficient of dyed silk samples were increased compared to control. Maximum shrinkage was in weft direction and GSM was in warp direction. Muga showed highest bending length than control. Except Muga rest all dyed silk samples attained highest elongation in weft way. Cloth weight and thickness of all the abraded reactive dyed silk samples attained lower values of cloth weight and higher values of thickness compared to control sample. The results of colourfastness property revealed that, on successive washes colour strength values of reactive dyed silk fabrics were in decreasing trend. Standard samples attained higher values of colour strength (K/S) than dry and wet rubbing samples. Standard samples had highest values of colour strength loss than the dyed samples exposed to sunlight. Except Muga rest all reactive dyed silk samples attained highest values of total colour difference subjected to sunlight. Colour strength of standard silk samples depicted highest values followed by samples subjected to acidic and alkaline media of perspiration. All black wet silk samples showed maximum per cent of colour strength loss than damp and dry sublimation. The cost of reactive dye per kg was ` 744/-.ThesisItem Open Access Printing of Chikankari Embroidery Motifs on Textiles(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Totar, Sheela; Kulloli, Sadhana D.The present study on “Printing of Chikankari embroidery motifs on textiles” was conducted at the RHSc, UAS Dharwad during 2015-2017 to explore the various Chikankari embroidery textiles, select and develop suitable Chikankari design on dress material through printing, calculate the cost of digital printed dress material and to know the consumer acceptance of the Chikankari printed dress material. Based on the traditional embroidery designs, ten Chikankari embroidered kameez materials were collected from local market. Out of ten Chikankari embroidery kameez designs five good to excellent designs were selected for digitization as evaluated by the adolescent girls. The digitized designs were printed on crepe silk and viscose material using Mimaki Tx2 digital printing machine with acid and reactive dyes respectively and the cost of digital printed crepe silk kameez material was Rs 1875/- and viscose kameez material Rs 990/- per 2.5 meters respectively. Respondents opined that the digital printed Chikankari embroidery designs on kameez materials were good to very good with kameez 5 design had high acceptability index because of its motif clarity, design clarity and colour sharpness. However, respondents moderately preferred the digital printed Chikankari embroidery. Thus, opined that of digital printing with Chikankari embroidery design is elegant, eye catching and one of the good mean to revive traditional embroidery designs. The digital printed Chikankari embroidery on viscous material resembled Chikankari embroidery more than on the crepe silk material. Hence, both adolescent girls and textile experts opined good to excellent resemblance of digital printed Chikankari designs with Chikankari embroidery designs.ThesisItem Open Access Development of Designs From Ethnic KHANA Motifs on Dress Materials(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Badanayak, Pratikhya; Kulloli, Sadhana D.The present study entitled ‘Development of designs from ethnic Khana motifs on dress materials’ was conducted during 2015-2017 with objectives to design the Khana motifs for dress materials applying elements and principles of design, digitize the motifs through CATD and know the preference of the developed dress materials. Totally 30 Guledgudda weavers were personally interviewed with self-structured questionnaire to collect the Khana motifs, historical background of Khana, demographic characteristics and the problems faced. Twenty kurti designs were developed using ten Khana motifs by applying elements and principles of design and five best kurti designs were selected by taking preferences from thirty textile experts. The selected five designs were digitized and woven on powerloom with jacquard shedding mechanism. A five point rating proforma was distributed to 60 respondents (30 students and 30 working women) for taking preference regarding the newly developed jacquard woven Khana kurtis. Majority of the weavers faced the problems of hike in price (60.00%) of raw materials, repairs and maintenance of powerloom (53.33%), back pain (76.67%) and eyesight weakness (75.00%). Significant results were found with respect to working hours and eye sight weakness & dust allergy, whereas highly significant with joint pain and back pain. The jacquard woven kurtis comprised of 2/100s cotton warp and 2/40s mercerized weft and 110d extra weft polyester yarns. The cost of jacquard woven Khana kurtis varied from Rs. 350/- to Rs. 600/- depending on the amount of extra weft yarns used. Cent per cent of the respondents agreed that the developed jacquard woven kurtis were woven based on elements and principles of design, appreciated and well accepted with regard to cost, motif clarity, motif combination, background and motif colour combination and overall appearance. The acceptability index of all the kurtis was more than 70 per cent, which indicated high acceptance index.ThesisItem Open Access Functional Properties of Traditional and Contemporary Silk Sarees of Molakalmuru(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2017-06) Patil, Sukanya; Sannapapamma K.J.A study on “Functional properties of traditional and contemporary silk sarees of Molakalmuru” was carried during the year 2016-17 with the objectives to study the specific features of variegated traditional and contemporary silk sarees, find out the motifs, colours, colour combinations and assess the functional properties of silk sarees. A sample of 30 weavers was randomly selected and interviewed personally to collect the specific information of silk sarees. The selected sarees were subjected to mechanical and functional properties at the College of Community Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad. Majority of the weavers belonged to Hindu community with middle age group, nuclear family, owned weaver’s card, yashaswini and BPL cards. The number of handlooms declined at the rate of 3.98 per cent per annum. Majority of the weavers faced problems of high price fluctuation in raw materials, low return, less profit and health problems like leg pain and eye sight. The traditional silk sarees were interlaced with 20/22d 2 ply filature silk of 105 tpi as warp and 18/20d 3 ply filature silk of 20 tpi as weft with 120 reed, 5.5 m length and 48" width. Contemporary silk sarees interlaced with 20/22d 2 ply filature silk of 105 tpi as warp and 18/20d 2/single ply filature silk of 20 tpi as weft with 90-120 reed, 6.20 m length and 48-52" width. The motifs employed in the sarees were viz., gandaberunda, aliluballi, kamala, navilukannu, bugudi, geometrical, naturalistic patterns and the common colours used for saree border and pallav were red, green, blue, pink and for the body colours were maroon, yellow, green, violet, cream and so on. Among the traditional and contemporary silk sarees, Gattipetta with plain border and brocade silk sarees possessed excellent mechanical and functional properties. The selling price of silk sarees ranged from ` 3,000 to 10,000.ThesisItem Open Access Relevance of Channapatna Toy Motifs on Textiles(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2016-07) Rashmi R.; Kulloli, Sadhana D.The present study was carried out during 2014-16 to study, collect and categorize the motifs of Channapatna toys, develop Channapatna toy motifs on textiles through printing, calculate the cost of production of textiles printed with Channapatna toy motifs and to know the consumer acceptance of textiles printed with Channapatna toy motifs. Based on primary and secondary data, the available fifty different Channapatna toys were categorized into animal, bird, human, vehicle, educational, play material, god, goddess and other motifs. Out of fifty motifs, textile experts selected thirty motifs suitable for textile printing and out of thirty motifs, fifteen each single motif and combination of motif border designs in 1”, 2” and 3” sizes were designed. Totally twelve border designs, two each from 1”, 2” and 3” sizes of both single and combination of motif border designs were selected on the highest Weighted Mean Score (WMS) rated by the textile experts based on motif clarity, colour combination and overall appearance suitable for screen and digital printing on three types of fabrics viz., cotton poplin, coarse cotton and crepe silk satin. The cost of screen and digital printing per meter with Channapatna toy motifs was found to be Rs. 910/- and Rs. 550/-, Rs. 920/- and Rs. 560/- and Rs. 1,240/- and Rs. 880/- on cotton poplin, coarse cotton and crepe silk satin respectively. Among the screen and digital printed border designs, the acceptability index was found to be highest in case of digitally printed with combination of motif border design on coarse cotton of 2” size (DCC2.2, 92.22 %) followed by 3” size (DCC3.2, 91.11 %) and single motif border design of 3” size (DSC3.2, 90 %). Finally, the most accepted border designs viz., DCC2.2, DCC3.2 and DSC3.2 were rendered on frocks, kurtis and sarees.
