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ThesisItem Open Access Relevance of Channapatna Toy Motifs on Textiles(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2016-07) Rashmi R.; Kulloli, Sadhana D.The present study was carried out during 2014-16 to study, collect and categorize the motifs of Channapatna toys, develop Channapatna toy motifs on textiles through printing, calculate the cost of production of textiles printed with Channapatna toy motifs and to know the consumer acceptance of textiles printed with Channapatna toy motifs. Based on primary and secondary data, the available fifty different Channapatna toys were categorized into animal, bird, human, vehicle, educational, play material, god, goddess and other motifs. Out of fifty motifs, textile experts selected thirty motifs suitable for textile printing and out of thirty motifs, fifteen each single motif and combination of motif border designs in 1”, 2” and 3” sizes were designed. Totally twelve border designs, two each from 1”, 2” and 3” sizes of both single and combination of motif border designs were selected on the highest Weighted Mean Score (WMS) rated by the textile experts based on motif clarity, colour combination and overall appearance suitable for screen and digital printing on three types of fabrics viz., cotton poplin, coarse cotton and crepe silk satin. The cost of screen and digital printing per meter with Channapatna toy motifs was found to be Rs. 910/- and Rs. 550/-, Rs. 920/- and Rs. 560/- and Rs. 1,240/- and Rs. 880/- on cotton poplin, coarse cotton and crepe silk satin respectively. Among the screen and digital printed border designs, the acceptability index was found to be highest in case of digitally printed with combination of motif border design on coarse cotton of 2” size (DCC2.2, 92.22 %) followed by 3” size (DCC3.2, 91.11 %) and single motif border design of 3” size (DSC3.2, 90 %). Finally, the most accepted border designs viz., DCC2.2, DCC3.2 and DSC3.2 were rendered on frocks, kurtis and sarees.ThesisItem Open Access Value Addition to Silk Floss(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2016-07) Pareet, Rashmi; Mahale, GeetaThe present investigation on “Value Addition to Silk Floss” was conducted during 2014-16 with the objectives to explore the possibility of spinning blended yarn and union fabrics from silk floss, to assess the physical, mechanical and functional and tactile properties of blended yarns and union fabrics, to calculate the cost of production of blended fabrics. Silk floss was cleaned and blended with cotton by stack method in the ratio of 50/50 and 70/30 cotton/silk floss and 100 % silk floss, spun into yarn using foot operated Medleri charkha. Developed yarns were subjected to physical properties viz., yarn count, yarn twist, tenacity, elongation and yarn evenness. It revealed that, cotton/silk (50/50) floss blended yarn exhibited highest count (8.4 Ne) and yarn evenness (16 nos/m), cotton/silk floss (70/30) blended yarn showed highest twist (10.73) and tenacity (0.57 kgf), 100 per cent pure silk floss yarn exhibited highest elongation per cent (9.94 %). Yarns were further subjected to weaving taken as weft and cotton yarn (2/20s) was taken as warp to develop the union fabrics. Developed blended union fabrics were subjected to geometrical, performance, durability and comfort properties. It revealed that control sample showed higher cloth density and air permeability (56.44 m3/m2/sec) and weft way elongation per cent. Cotton x cotton/silk floss (70/30) blended union fabric exhibited highest weight (296.8 g) and thickness, shrinkage, crease recovery, pilling, abrasion cycles, tensile strength, thermal insulation value (51.40 tog), warp way elongation per cent (21.98 %). Stiffness (91.6 degree) and drape coefficient (48.54 %) of cotton x cotton/silk floss (50/50) blended union fabric attained highest values. Tactile properties were assessed i.e., textural, appearance and handle from 25 textile experts. Control sample was ranked 1 by majority of the respondents. Production cost of cotton x cotton/silk floss (70/30) blended union fabric was high Rs. 449/ m.ThesisItem Open Access Restructuring Conventional Motifs for Home Textiles(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2016-07) Rajbanshi, Gayatri; Naik, Shailaja D.The present investigation on “Restructuring conventional motifs for Home Textiles” was conducted during 2014-16 with the objectives of restructuring and digitizing conventional Assamese textile motifs and rendering the digitized motifs on different Home Textiles by using CAD software. From the total 35 collected motifs, almost fifty per cent of the motifs (17) were sorted by the researcher keeping in view the suitability for Home Textiles. Among the 17 motifs, the six motifs identified by textile experts were restructured into contemporary form by using ‘CorelDraw- X8’. These six motifs along with other conventional motifs were arranged in different layouts by repeating the motifs on ‘Adobe Photoshop’ for producing variegated design patterns. Both contemporary as well as conventional Assamese textile motifs were rendered using CAD software on 4 classes of Home Textiles viz., window dressing, soft furnishing, wall covering and floor covering, a total 45 virtual images of Home Textiles were developed by rendering technique. Thirty each teachers and students of the college of Rural Home Science, Dharwad evaluated the 45 virtual images of Home Textiles. It was found that the naturalistic, geometrical and stylized motifs used on Assamese clothing are suitable for Home Textiles hence could be well applied. Majority of the respondents preferred naturalistic motifs i.e., floral and bird are mostly suitable for window dressing as well soft furnishing whereas geometrical and stylized motifs for wall and floor coverings. The respondents expressed that the study throws light on revival of tribal and mythological symbols, an inspiration to textile designer, home decor, weaver, printer and such other allied industries who could venture in the area of rendering the images on variegated textiles, a foundation for the business.ThesisItem Open Access Dyeing Silk with Acacia nilotica Pods(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2016-06) Jamadar, Dilshad; Sannapapamma K.J.The present study was conducted during the year 2014-16 with the objectives to optimize the dyeing-conditions of Acacia nilotica, to study the physical properties of dyed silk, to assess the colour-fastness and colour strength of dyed silk and to estimate the dyeing cost of silk with Acacia nilotica. The degummed mulberry silk yarn and dried Acacia nilotica pods were used for the study. The powdered Acacia nilotica (5, 10, 15 and 20 g) was soaked overnight in different M.L.R (1:20, 1:30, 1:40) for optimize the dye-concentration and it was extracted by aqueous method. Based on the reflectance and K/S value, 10 g dye-concentration, 1:30 M.L.R, 30 min extraction-time were optimised for dye extraction. The pre treated silk mordanted with different metallic mordants viz., alum (5, 10, 15 %), stannous (0.5, 1.0, 1.5 %), copper and ferrous (1, 2, 3 %) in pre, simultaneous and post mordanting methods and dyed in optimized dye-concentration in 1:40 M.L.R for 30 min. The dyed silk assessed for yarn strength, elongation and colour-fastness properties. Irrespective of mordants, mordant concentration and mordanting methods, pre-mordanted dyed silk yarn with alum (15 %), stannous (0.5 %), copper and ferrous (3 %) showed increased K/S value & colour co-ordinates and these mordants were used for mordant combination. Silk mordanted with copper+ferrous showed significantly higher K/S than the other mordant-combinations. The silk pre-mordanted with (15 %) alum showed greater strength & elongation than the other samples. All mordanted samples exhibited good-excellent fastness to rubbing, perspiration, sunlight and washing compared to control. The various shades obtained from dyed silk mordanted with alum and copper (light-brown to dark olive-green), stannous (light-brown to dark-cream) and ferrous (dark coffee-brown to light-ash). The production cost of dyeing silk mordanted with stannous and ferrous was comparatively inexpensive (Rs. 2,549.00) than the copper and alum mordanted samples (Rs. 2,568.00 – 2,599.00).ThesisItem Open Access Functional Properties of Toweling Fabrics(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2016-06) Hakkarki, Bhagyashree; Mahale, GeetaThe present investigation on “Functional properties of toweling fabrics” was conducted during 2014-16 with the objectives to elicit the information on availability of different types of toweling materials in the local market, to study the constructional structure of the selected toweling fabrics, to study the effect of laundering on functional properties of the toweling fabrics. The study comprised of two parts: survey method and experimental procedure. Thirty shop owners who had a good collection of exclusive toweling fabrics in their shop were personally interviewed using a self structured schedule. The experimental procedure involved testing of i) structural properties viz., cloth count, cloth thickness, cloth weight and dimensional stability, ii) durable properties viz., tensile strength and elongation, abrasion resistance, iii) absorbency properties namely sinking, water up-take and wick up test. Effect of laundering on functional parameters was tested by subjecting to multiple washes. The results revealed that, Plain weave , Plain weave punche, Twill weave, Huck-a-back , Honey comb, Diamond weave Both side uncut pile , One side uncut pile and One side cut pile were available in majority of the shops. Structural properties of toweling fabrics subjected to multiple washes were analysed and the results revealed that ends per inch of all nine control toweling fabric samples was greater than the corresponding picks. Almost all toweling fabric samples depicted increasing trend of ends and picks per unit area with the increase in number of washes. Durable properties of toweling fabrics subjected to multiple washes re vealed that there was gradual reduction in tensile strength of fabric. Warp and weft elongation gradually decreased with increased number of washes than control. Absorbency properties of toweling fabrics revealed that the rise of water by the wick-up action was very quick in the first one minute. The wicking height was also increased in control and washed sample with increased number of washes. Thus, it is concluded that the Terry pile weave, Honey comb, Huck-a-back and Plain weave are more suitable for toweling fabrics.ThesisItem Open Access Influence of Surfactants on Fabric Behaviour(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2016-06) Matti, Shreela B.; Naik, Shailaja D.The present study was carried out during 2014-16 at Dharwad with the objectives to elicit the information on most popularly selling surfactants in local market, to assess the efficiency of surfactants on stain removal and to study the effects of surfactants on colour strength, structural, performance and durable properties of dyed fabric. On the basis of survey results, three popularly sellable surfactants in the local market and four common stains experienced by the working men and women were selected for the present study. Bleached organic cotton sample was stained with curry, grease, pickle and mud and washed with selected three surfactants viz., WG, PW and WBO separately upto 3 washes and assessed for discolouration after every wash. To assess the impact of surfactants the white cotton was vat dyed in four colours viz., black, blue, green and red and subjected to 15 hand washings. The results revealed that PW was focused to be effective in removing curry, grease and pickle stains where as WBO in removing mud stain. The K/S value (57.14 %) of curry stain was found to be lighter after 3rd wash with PW surfactant than mud, grease and pickle. There was increase in the cloth count and cloth thickness after 5th wash and due to progressive consolidation of yarns in both directions. However, the fabrics attained dimensional stability there after. The test samples showed higher crease recovery in weftway than warpway indicating its softness and pliability. There was decrease in tensile strength and elongation (%) of the test samples both warpway and weftway as well as abrasion resistance may be due to mechanical agitation that lead to wear-tear of fibres and in turn yarns. The fabric dyed in blue and green colours were sensitive to washing compared to black and red. Red sample withstood number of washes where as black gradually indicated a tinge of greenness and blueness.ThesisItem Open Access Extraction, Characterization and Value Addition to Banana Pseudostem Fibre(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2016-06) Ganiger, Renuka I.; Vastrad, Jyoti V.The present research on “Extraction, characterization and value addition to banana pseudostem fibre” was carried out during the year 2014-16, with the objectives to study the extraction efficiency of fibre from pseudostem of two major varieties of banana plant, to assess the microstructure and physico-chemical properties of banana pseudostem fibre, to study the impact of preparatory processing on quality of the fibre, to excavate the possibilities of designing value added utility products using banana pseudostem fibre and to estimate the cost of processing of banana fibre and products. The fibres extracted mechanically (raspador machine) from pseudostem of banana plant varieties Grand Naine and Ney Poovan were subjected to wet processing treatments such as scouring and bleaching. Further the physical parameters i.e. fibre weight loss, length, strength, elongation and fineness were assessed. The results revealed that significant increase in weight loss was observed with increasing concentrations of the wet processing liquors. Irrespective of the varieties, the length of the fibre gradually reduced. Fibres scoured with 1 per cent NaOH concentration exhibited improvement in the fibre strength in both the varieties; whereas 2, 3 and 4 per cent NaOH concentration reduced the strength. Similarly, the strength significantly decreased on scouring + bleaching and direct bleaching treatments. The elongation percentage decreased significantly with increase in NaOH and H2O2 concentrations. Maximum fineness was found in fibres treated with 4 per cent NaOH concentrations and 2 per cent H2O2 concentration. Manually spun yarn was used to prepare value added utility products using braiding and crocheting techniques. Fashion accessories like key chain, belt, hand bag, basket, mobile cover and household utility articles are table mat-I (square), table mat-II (circular), tea coasters, pen/spoon holder, wall mate-I and wall mate-II.ThesisItem Open Access EFFECT OF SOFTENERS ON DECCANI WOOL BLANKET(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2015-06) MANJULATHA, C.; MAHALE, GEETAThe present investigation titled “Effect of softeners on Deccani wool blanket” was conducted at University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, Karnataka, during the year 2013 2015 with an objective to study the prevailing practices of wool processing in Northern Karnataka, to optimize a protocol for softener finishing of Deccani wool Blanket, to assess the quality parameters of processed Deccani wool Blanket and to estimate the cost of softener finished Deccani wool Blanket. A self structured schedule was administered for randomly selected 150 shepherds belonging to Medleri village, Ranebennur taluk, Haveri District, to collect the general information of the shepherds and to know the prevailing practices of wool processing. Pure Deccani woollen blanket woven by Medleri weavers was collected for the softening treatment. Based on ionic nature of the softener, three softeners i.e., cationic, non ionic and silicon were selected for the treatment. In order to optimize the pH, concentration, time, temperature for different softeners three replications with 81 combinations was carried out. The treatment procedure was optimized based on the highest value of tensile strength and GSM of the treated blanket sample. The Deccani wool blanket treated with optimized parameters were further assessed for its quality parameters and subjective evaluation of the samples was done by the textile experts. The cost of softener finished Deccani wool blanket was calculated. The data was analysed using frequencies, percentages, one way ANOVA and regression. Results revealed that performance properties of softener treated samples were improved and the highest was attained by silicon treated sample. The extensibility and TIV of the treated sample was increased while tensile strength and air permeability was decreased. Textile experts opined that the handle, appearance of the Deccani wool blanket was improved after softening treatment. The softening treatment was found to be economical and can be recommended to the shepherds.ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING ADAPTIVE CLOTHING STYLES FOR VISUALLY IMPAIRED CHILDREN(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2014-11) LEELA N. WALMIKI; Dr. (Mrs.) JYOTI V. VASTRADThe study on ‘Designing adaptive clothing styles for visually impaired children’ was carried out during 2012-2014 at Dharwad, Belgum and Uttar Kannada Districts with the objectives: to study the clothing selection and laundering practices among blind adolescents, to identify the explicit recognition processes in identification of clothes, to assess the clothing problems of the blind adolescents, to design adaptive clothing with self-help features and to study the suitability and comfortability of the adaptive styles. The study comprised of two parts viz., survey method and experimental procedures. The primary data on clothing purchases and laundry practices was collected through survey method by interviewing 50 each visually impaired adolescent girl and boys using self structured interview schedules. In experimental procedure 5 adaptive clothing were designed for visually impaired adolescent girls for studying suitability and comfortability of the newly designed garment. The survey results revealed that, the visually impaired boys and girls were ‘always’ assisted by parents, teachers while purchasing clothes, boys ‘always’ purchased readymade garments and girls preferred tailor made garments. The visually impaired adolescents ‘always’ faced problem in selecting colour of the clothes followed by pattern. Colour identification, matching of upper and lower garments was the major problem reported by visually impaired adolescents. Majority of the girls always washed garments by themselves than the boys. Majority of the respondents opined that, Braille labels were highly suitable and functional followed by buttons, appliqué/patch work and bead work in identification of garment colour, style right/wrong and front/back of the garment. Among the garments, divided skirt and blouse, Kameez - salwar, and top wraparound skirt and leggings were found to be ‘highly acceptable’ adaptive garments.
