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ThesisItem Open Access Extraction and Spinnabiity of Mesta (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Fibre(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) R. Dhanalaxmi Devi; Jyoti V. VastradThe present investigation entitled “Extraction and Spinnaiblity of Mesta (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Fibre” was carried out during 2009-2011. Mesta variety AS73 CP 560 grown in Institute of Organic Farming, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad was selected for the study. Fibres were extracted from stalks harvested at two different stages of plant growth using urea treatment and different steeping methods. Scoured, bleached and dyed mesta fibres were assessed for quality viz., length, fineness, strength and elongation, colour strength and colourfastness. Spinnability of the fibres in different blend proportions with cotton was studied and the yarn parameters were assessed. Results revealed that stalks harvested at physiological maturity stage processed by urea treatment and vertical-horizontal steeping produced higher fibre yields. Longitudinal structure of mesta fibres is striated, with nodes that are more clear and developed at physiological maturity stage. Cross section depicted the existence of a number of fibrils. Presence of lignin in the physiological matured stalks was noticed. Fibres extracted by vertical-horizontal steeping had less amount of waxes and gums as indicated by the cross sectional structure. There was a successive reduction of fibre quality on wet processing treatments. The physical characteristics of 80:20 cotton/mesta blended yarn were better than the 100 per cent organic cotton and 60:40 cotton/mesta blended yarns. Moreover, mesta fibres have added strength to cotton yarn and simultaneously decreased the elongation making the blend suitable for knits, curtains & draperies and other household textiles including table & kitchen linen. Addition of mesta fibres has also reduced the cost of production of pure cotton yarns. Expediting the usage of such minor fibres not only saves natural fibres for multiple applications but also ensures the availability of eco-friendly goods at nominal prices.ThesisItem Open Access Two Faced Outfits for School Going Girls(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) S. Mariyappanavar; Shailaja D.NaikClothing is an integral inseparable part of mankind that meets the basic necessity along with food and shelter and even denotes wealth, power, position and mode of adornment. Clothing has become a preferred means of individual expression and economic concerns, and it is within this context the researcher planned the concept of developing ‘Two faced outfits’ could be worn two ways. There is no true “inside out” to a reversible outfit, since either way it gives a fashionable appearance. Two faced outfits are been designed for the school going girls who are pretty fashion conscious, demand for new dresses during special occasions. Hence, the present study is taken up to design two faced outfits for school going girls and appraise the acceptance and calculate the cost of production of these designer’s outfits. The methodology consisted of survey and experimental procedures. Keeping in mind the colour preference by the school going girls mood, swatch, colour and illustration board were prepared prior to product development. Three sets of skirt – top on the basis of standard measurements developed were godet skirt – halter top, circular skirt – sling top and wrap around skirt – strap top. The cost of production was calculated and the acceptance for the outfits was assessed by four categories of respondents. The result revealed that irrespective of the categories of the respondents’, the most accepted designer’s two faced outfit was wrap around skirt – strap top, followed by circular skirt – sling top finally the godet skirt – halter top. These outfits provide greater scope for mix and match and pair off outfits that are remarkably cost effective. This study further throw light on designing reversible winter clothes for kids, special clothes for physically challenged, expectant and lactating mothers as well senior citizens; a trust area for apparel industry and a challenge for commercial production.ThesisItem Open Access Variegated Printing Media on Knitwear(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) Spoorti Uppinal; Shailaja D.NaikThe research was conducted during 2009-2011 with the objective to study the impact of laundering on physical parameters of five knit samples each printed with different media. The study consisted of survey and experimental procedure. Interview schedule was administered on thirty each working, nonworking mothers to elicit information on clothing preference, clothing purchasing practice and laundry practices; and readymade shop owners regarding fibre content, branded knitwear and embellishment techniques commonly adopted to knitwear viz., discharge, flock, foil, pigment and plastisol were chosen and subjected for fifteen hand washes by kneading and squeezing. After every fifth wash the samples were assessed for fabric count, thickness, weight, shrinkage and colour of wales and courses per inch, thickness (mm), weight (GSM) but reduction in colour strength of both printed and unprinted areas of all knit samples compared to their corresponding control values after fifth wash. All the knit samples attained dimensional stability before fifth wash. Flock print exhibited very poor colour strength (K/S) values, followed by pigment and plastisol. The percentage of slenderness of print area reflected poor strength, durability, quality and standard of the print media, print style and printing method. It is evident that flock printed knit sample was found to be very poor, since the flock was completely washed off and disappeared by fifteenth wash leaving a part of thickening agent which was held mechanically. Home laundering did affect the physical parameters of both unprinted and printed area of knit samples, as the composition of all the five print media was not similar. Hence, the level of impact of home laundering on physical parameters varied greatly.