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20194
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Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × End date: 2019 × Start date: 2019 × Thesis Type: M.Sc ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Adaptation of Madhubani Motifs for Screen Printing and Hand Embroidery on Stoles
    (CCSHAU, 2019) Pooja Rani; Yadav, Saroj
    India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and folk art which are very ethnic and simple, and yet colorful and vibrant enough to speak volumes about the rich heritage. Folk art in India apparently has a great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and authenticity. The two most famous folk painting are Warli art of Maharashtra and Madhubani art of Mithila. The present study was conducted on adaptation of Madhubani motifs on stole through screen printing and hand embroidery. The 120 traditional Madhubani motifs were collected from secondary sources like books, journals, magazine and internet etc. and screened for their suitability to stole using screen printing and hand embroidery. The identified motifs were sketched manually and scanned from books, magazines etc. which were recreated and modified in CorelDRAW X5 and Adobe Photoshop to get the required complexity and elegance. The selected motifs were categorized in four categories viz. floral & foliage, geometrical, animal & bird and religious motifs and shown to the thirty experts to sought their preferences for selection of four top preferred motifs i.e. four from each category. Total thirty designs were prepared using selected sixteen motifs and got assessed from thirty experts for selection of five top preferred designs for preparation of design layout on stole. The base colour and fabric for stole were selected as per preferences of experts. Twenty five developed design placements were again shown to the experts and one best design placement of each selected five designs was selected for development of colour ways. Five colour ways for each selected five design placements were prepared and colour way that secured Ist rank was selected for development of stole through using screen printing and hand embroidery technique. The cost of each stole was determined by adding the cost of raw material, screen printing, hand embroidery and finishing charges. The screen printed and hand embroidered stoles were assessed for consumers’ acceptability on different parameters. Out of the one hundred twenty motifs, sixteen motifs selected for design development were motif number 8, 11, 29 and 30 in floral & foliage motifs, motif number 2, 8, 15 and 26 in geometrical motifs category, motif number 1, 18, 19 and 26 in animal & bird motifs category and motif number 2, 13, 28 and 30 in religious motifs category. The five top preferred designs were design number 14, 20, 22, 23 and 29. Preferences of experts for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design number 14 and 20, placement I of design number 22, placement II of design number 23 and placement V of design number 29. Most preferred colour ways for screen printing and hand embroidery as per experts’ choice were colour way I of design number 14 and 22, colour way II of design number 20 and 23 and colour way V of design number 29. Five stoles were developed through screen printing and hand embroidery as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs. All the screen printed and hand embroidered stoles were found very enthralling and accepted by consumers on different assessment parameters. The cost of the stoles was rated appropriate by all the consumers. Thus, traditional Madhubani motifs adapted for development of designs for stole has expanded the design base for textile products and cater to the urge of high-end clients through variety of designs and unique combination of screen printing and hand technique.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Antibacterial Finish for Cotton Fabric using Herbal Extract
    (CCSHAU, 2019) Yadav, Sharmila; Rose, Neelam M.
    The present research was intended to prepare antibacterial herbal extracts for application on cotton fabric. To achieve the objectives projected in research plan, jatamansi rhizome extract was selected for antibacterial treatment to cotton fabric. Desizing and scouring were performed on selected cotton fabric for uniform application of finish.The concentrations and conditions for applying the herbal extracts on the fabrics were optimized on the basis of the bacterial resistance efficacy.The application of finish was performed with exhaust and pad-dry-cure methods using the optimized concentrations and conditions. The efficacy of herbal finish was assessed after 5 and 10 wash cycles in terms of percent reduction in bacterial count. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties. Aqueous extract of plant was selected for application on the cotton fabric on the basis of maximum zone of inhibition exhibited against the i.e. Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria. It was found that yield percentage with repeated maceration (triple percolation) of extract was 13.90 percent for jatamansi rhizome. The optimum variables for antibacterial treatment on the basis of bacterial resistance were9 percent concentration of jatamansi rhizome extract (for both the methods),5 percent concentration of cross linking agent (for both the methods),pH 6 (for both the methods), material to liquor ratio 1:40 for exhaust and 1:20 for pad-dry-cure methods, 60 min at 600Ctreatment time and temperature for exhaust and 30 min at 400C for pad-dry-cure method, 1000C for 5 min drying temperature and time for exhaust and 1200C for 5 min for pad-dry-cure and 1400C for 5 min curing temperature and time. The treated fabrics exhibited 91.31and89.41 percent reduction in the bacterial count of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli after the application of jatamansi herbal extract by exhaust method whereas after the application of jatamansi herbal extract by pad-dry-cure method 95.39and 95.14 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively was observed. After 5 washing cycles, the treated fabrics exhibited 77.45 and 74.86 percent reduction in the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli respectively whereas after 10 washing cycles, the reduction in bacterial count was 53.10 and 51.54 percent for S. aureus and E. coli respectively. For pad-dry-cure method, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli of the washed fabric after 5 washing cycles decreased by 79.76 and 76.29 percent respectively and after 10 washing cycles, the bacterial count of S. aureus and E. coli was decreased by 57.34 and 54.67 percent respectively. The herbal treated fabrics were tested for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery angle and elongation of herbal treated fabric were increased. The herbal treated fabrics exhibited excellent ultraviolet protection i.e. 41.01 by exhaust and 47.10 by pad-dry-cure method. Thus, it is concluded that antibacterial treatment with jatamansi extract imparted multifunctionality to the cotton fabrics it provided very high bacterial resistance properties along with excellent ultraviolet protection and crease resistant properties. Hence, the jatamansi herbal extract is suitable natural antibacterial agent for replacement of synthetic antibacterial agents without harmful effect on the properties of cotton fabric.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Effect of Enzymatic Treatment on Dyeing of Woolen Fabric With Natural Dye
    (CCSHAU, 2019) Sharma, Rubi; Rose, Neelam M.
    Environment and ecology occupy a prominent place among the key focal issues faced by the world today. Due to the awareness on environmental impact of polluting nature of textile effluent released by chemical processing of textiles, the pressure is increasing on the textile processing industries to use eco-friendly finishing processes to save environment. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study was planned to assess the effect of different enzyme treatments on dyeing efficiency of wool for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Comparative analysis was done alkali, enzyme and neutral scoured fabrics for selection of the best scouring method for preparation of woolen fabric. One natural dye was selected on the basis of higher percent dye uptake and fastness grades. Out of four enzymes, top ranked two enzymes were selected on the basis of better geomateric and surface properties exhibited by the treated fabrics. Standardization of enzymes treatments for selected two enzymes was done on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness rating for different enzyme concentrations and treatment conditions. The scoured fabric was pretreated with both the selected enzymes and dyed with selected natural dye. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of selected dye, scoured and dyed woolen samples was done. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the enzyme treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the enzyme treated and treated dyed fabrics were also tested. Results revealed that neutral scoured sample showed more increase in fabric count and less reduction in fabric weight and thickness as compared to alkali and enzyme scoured samples, thus neutral method of scouring was selected for preparation of woolen fabric. It was found that percent dye absorption and wash fastness of kachnar(Bauhinia variegata) dye was higher for all the four enzymes as compared to marigold dye, hence kachnar dye was selected for dyeing of woolen fabric. Among all the enzymes, lipase and protease exhibited reduced percent shrinkage and percent weight loss and enhanced gloss of woolen fabric,thus selected for pretreatment of woolen fabric. The optimized parameters for enzyme treatments of scoured woolen fabric were 0.50 percent enzyme concentration, 1:20M:L Ratio, 7.5 pH, 65°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for lipase enzyme. All these treatment variables were same for the protease enzyme except 0.25 percent enzyme concentration. FTIR analysis demonstrated the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to scouring and dyeing treatments. Both the enzyme treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results indicated that between both the enzyme treated dyed fabrics, lipase treated dyed fabric showed maximum decrease in bending length (3.25 cm) and crease recovery angle (132.09) whereas protease treated dyed sample showed maximum increase in tensile strength (23.98 kg)more increase in elongation (28.47%) and wickability (6.18 cm). The lipase treated and kachnardyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (127.79) indicating excellent protection category while in protease treated dyed fabric UPF value was (110.98). The lipase enzyme treated dyed fabrics exhibited bacterial resistance against S. aureus (94.53%) and E. coli (91.40%). Hence it is concluded that enzyme treatments enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the woolen fabric with better colour fastness properties. The enzyme pretreatment and kachnar dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of woolen fabric with excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Thus the enzymes are suitable replacement materials for woolen fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Antibacterial finish on cotton using Giloy extract
    (CCSHAU, 2019) Kumari Medha; Arya, Nisha
    The present study was intended to apply antibacterial finish on cotton fabric by using Giloy stem extract. To achieve the objectives projected in the research design, Giloy stem extract was selected for giving finishing treatment to cotton fabric. Pretreatment was given to cotton fabric prior to the application of finish using standardized concentration of Giloy stem extract with exhaust and pad dry cure methods. Giloy stem were extracted by cold aqueous maceration and soxhlet evaporation. It was found that percentage yield of extract was 18.2 per cent after 36 hours for Giloy stems. Bacteria (Bacillus spp. and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) were selected for the present study. The antibacterial activity of the extract was tested using agar well diffusion method. It was observed that the extract possessed antibacterial activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, but had no resistance against Bacillus spp. Hence, Pseudomonas aeruginosa was selected for further research. To study the efficacy of Giloy stem extract on cotton fabric, finished samples were tested for microbial resistance quantitatively by AATCC-100 test method before and after washing the samples (five wash cycles). The antibacterial finish applied with Giloy stem extract by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, was highly effective after 24 hours of inoculation against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. After 24 hours, antibacterial resistance gradually decreased and after 96 hours it reduced to 88.55 per cent and 89.33 per cent in cotton fabric sample finished by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. The cotton fabric sample finished with Giloy stem extract by exhaust and pad dry cure methods were analyzed for their bacterial resistance after five wash cycles. After 24 hours, the resistance gradually decreased and after 96 hours, it reduces to 87.44 per cent and 88.55 per cent by exhaust and pad dry cure methods, respectively. Thus, there was continuous decrease in antibacterial activity with increase in incubation period after washing but even then the finish was actively retained in washed samples after 96 hours. It was further concluded that after inoculation of Pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria, microbes did not alter the physical properties of the finished samples heavily. Finished fabric was analyzed for change in physical properties and it was found that fabric weight, thickness, bulk and elongation of fabric were increased while fabric count, tensile strength, bending length, flexural rigidity, air permeability and moisture regain were decreased. After washing, physical properties of finished fabric were again investigated and it was found that fabric count, weight, thickness, bulk, bending length, flexural rigidity and tensile strength of Giloy stem extract finished sample decreased while elongation, air permeability and moisture regain increased. Conclusively, Giloy stem extract was observed as an efficient natural source for imparting antibacterial finish on textiles.