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ThesisItem Open Access Development of ready-to-use yokes through digital embroidery(CCSHAU, 2018) Parmila; Yadav, NirmalDesigning textiles and apparel is an ancient craft of India which is one of the most demanding fields as it is full of scope for creativity. Designing includes new and existing techniques for applications of designs on textile items depending upon their end uses. In the garments various patterns are added to enhance the beauty of garments. Patterns may be embroidery, painting, tie & dye, finishes, setting of seams and addition of yoke in garment. A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders. Thus the present study was conducted to develop ready-to-use yokes using digital embroidery technique. The 150 cutwork motifs were collected from secondary sources and screened for their suitability to ready-to-use yokes as well as digital embroidery. The screened motifs were categorized in two categories viz. geometrical and floral motifs. The motifs were shown to the thirty experts to seek their preferences for selection of one third top preferred motifs from each category. Preferences of experts were also taken for fabrics and base colour of fabric for ready-to-use yokes. A total of forty five designs were developed using combination of two to four motifs/ parts of motifs and a single motif from one category or combining both the categories with their compatibility and harmony of selected thirty motifs with the help of CorelDRAW software. Five top raked designs were selected for placements. Created fifteen design placements were again shown to the experts and one preferred placement of each selected five designs was selected for product development. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were simulated and colour way that secured first rank was selected for digital embroidery. The selected five designs were transformed into digital form in embroidery software by assigning design size, stitch type, stitch length and stitch density to different parts of the design. Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery and cost of each ready-to-use yokes was calculated. The developed ready-to-use yokes were assessed on different parameters. Out of 90 screened motifs, thirty motifs selected for design development were motif number 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29, 33, 35 and 37 in geometrical category and motif number 6, 12, 14, 17, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 32, 40, 41, 43 and 44 in floral category of motifs. The top preferred five designs i.e. design number 4, 8, 25, 29 and 43 were selected for creation of design placements. The most preferred placement of selected five designs were placement II of design number 4 and 8, placement III of design number 25 and 29 and placement I of design number 43. The most preferred colour ways for digital embroidery on ready-to-use yokes were analogus in design number 4, complementary in design number 8 and 25, complementary triad in design number 29 and rectangular tetrad in design number 43.Five ready-to-use yokes were developed through digital embroidery technique using the most preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs on white cotton fabric using embroidery threads. All the developed ready-to-use yokes were found very appealing and highly accepted by consumers on all the parameters of assessment regarding suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development for ready-to-use yokes using cutwork motifs. The cost of the digital embroidered ready-to-use yokes was rated appropriate by majority of the consumers. Thus cutwork motifs adapted for designing ready-to-use yokes with the help of CAD/CAM technology and using digital embroidery technique enhance the range of the designing and productivity.