Thumbnail Image

Theses

Browse

20211
Reset filters
Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × Author: Chauhan, Neha × Start date: 2010 × Type: Thesis ×
Reset filters

Search Results

Now showing 1 - 1 of 1
  • Thumbnail Image
    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Effects of Softening Agent on Drapability of Cotton Khadi Fabric” submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy
    (CCSHAU, Hisar, 2021-01) Chauhan, Neha; Arya, Nisha
    Khadi can be deliberated as the vocal evocative of the Indian cottage Industry. Khadi fabric is emerging as a fashion fabric with shifted designers‟ interest in apparels but khadi also has drawbacks associated with it as cotton khadi is prone to wrinkles, poor drapability, higher maintenance cost etc. The present study has been conducted to study the effects of softening agent on drapability of cotton khadi fabric. Desizing and scouring was done by conventional and enzymatic method. Enzymatic desizing and scouring depicted better water absorption; hence it was continued for further research work. Three commercial softeners and three enzymes were procured on the basis of their suitability for softening of cotton khadi fabric. Eighteen combinations of commercial softeners and eighteen combinations of enzymes were tried and one top ranked combination from each category was selected on the basis of preference of experts. Standardization of commercial softener and enzymatic treatment for cotton khadi fabric was done on the basis of improvement in mechanical properties i.e. bending length, flexural rigidity and drape coefficient. Application of conventional chemical treatment was done by exhaust method. Application of amino-silicone softener and enzymatic treatment was done as per optimized conditions by pad dry cure method. SEM was done to understand the changes in surface morphology and FTIR analysis was performed for understanding the functional groups after each treatment. The changes in physical and functional properties after different treatments were studied. The results showed improvement in softness and drape after each treatment with decrease in bending length (1.29 per cent in warp and 5.43 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (5.93 per cent) and drape coefficient (6.89 per cent) after conventional chemical treatment. After commercial softener treatment also, decrease in bending length (9.09 per cent in warp and 15.21 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (21.53 per cent) and drape coefficient (16.92 per cent) was observed and maximum decrease in bending length (18.18 per cent in warp and 27.17 per cent in weft), flexural rigidity (41.06 per cent) and drape coefficient (28.37 per cent) was observed after enzymatic treatment. The treated cotton khadi fabric was assessed for reduction in the growth of bacteria for K. pneumoniae and S. aureus. Conventional chemical treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 for K. pneumoniae and 9.37 per cent for S. aureus whereas commercial softener treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 36.48 for K. pneumoniae and 45.31 for S. aureus. Enzymatically treated fabric exhibited per cent reduction of 32.43 per cent for K. pneumoniae and 37.50 for S. aureus in the growth as compared to controlled sample. It was also discerned that the UPF value of the scoured fabric was 8.07 which increased to 17.54 when treated with enzymes with good grade under protection category. The conventional chemical treatment also showed improvement in UPF value with moderate grade protection(14.70) but the ultra violet protection property increased slightly (8.88) after commercial softener treatment. The differently treated fabric samples were washed and changes in physical properties after 5, 10, 15 and 20 washing cycles were recorded. Conclusively, the application of softening agents improved the drapability and other physical as well as functional properties of treated cotton khadi fabric and will be beneficial for fulfilling the growing demand of suitable fabric hand and drape.