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  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Standardization of paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Gulati, Nidhi; Pruthi, Neelam
    The present study was conducted to standardize the paper patterns of kameez-salwar for pre-adolescent girls. Standardization of paper pattern involved preparation of foundation paper patterns, construction of garments using foundation paper patterns, reliability assessment of stitched garments and development of standardized paper patterns. Foundation paper pattern were made using drafting technique on the basis of standardize anthropometrical measurements. Nine foundation paper patterns for kameez were developed and kameez were constructed for 28”, 29” and 30” bust girth with three waist girth of each size. Three foundation paper patterns of salwar were developed and salwar were constructed for 32”, 33” and 34” hip girth. Each kameez was tried on 10 respondents having corresponding waist girth and each salwar was also tried having corresponding hip girth. Hence the garments were tried on total 90 respondents. During trials for reliability assessment, very negligible changes were observed which were incorporated in the foundation paper patterns and total of 12 paper patterns were standardized, nine for kameez and three for salwar. To study the opinion of trainees regarding paper patterns and drafting techinque, four trainings were conducted, two in Hisar city and two in villages i.e. Ludas and Kaimeri. The women/girls having skill in garment constructions were selected to impart trainings. These were attended by 60 respondents. Data pertaining to personal profile of the trainees highlighted that maximum of them were from age group of 15-25 years and majority of them had education upto middle level and belonged to medium sized family. About 51.66 percent of them were having family income in the range of Rs. 3001-6000 /-. The major motivating factor for attending the training found was ‘self-stitching is the best way to utilize old fabric/ left over fabric’ (3). Majority of trainees opined that ‘illiterate ladies with low educational level can’t do calculations for drafting’ (2.90). The respondents had high opinion about paper patterns as they found that ‘the use of paper patterns have given chance to stitch kameez-salwar at home independently’ (2.95) and ‘trainees can adopt garment construction as an income generating activity if paper pattern of different sizes are easily available’ (2.91). The training was also found to be useful by trainees as ‘it helped them to learn easy method of cutting by using paper patterns’ (3). Symbolic adoption of paper patterns was also high as the trainees were of the view that ‘trainees have no social inhibition for acceptance of paper pattern in the village’ (2.88). Majority of the trainees (76.66%) had high opinion about the paper patterns but (63.3%) had poor opinion about the drafting technique and 79.33% had high opinion about the training. On the basis of opinion of trainees and the previous studies, the standardized paper patterns were prepared without seam allowance.