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Theses

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2016 - 20173
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Subject: Textile and Apparel Designing × End date: 2017 × Start date: 2010 × Type: Thesis × Thesis Type: Ph.D ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    ANTIMICROBIAL EFFECT OF HERBAL PLANTS ON COTTON FABRICS
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2016-07) Choudhury, Swapna; Phukan, Ava Rani
    The study comprises of an investigation on antimicrobial effect of herbal plants on cotton fabric. Antimicrobial finish on textiles is a large research focus in the textiles industry. The population explosion and the environmental pollution in the recent years forced the researchers to find new health and hygiene related products for the well being of mankind. The nuisance caused by microbes is numerous and the problem is still aggravated in tropical and subtropical regions. Pathogenic microorganisms transfer infectious diseases and develop lung related disorders. Mold and fungi cause staining, discolouration and degradation of textile substrates. The Antimicrobial textiles are becoming important to avoid cross infection by pathogenic microorganisms, especially bacteria to control the infestation by microbes and to arrest metabolism in microbes in order to reduce the formation of odor. Textiles for medical and hygienic use have become important areas in the textile industry. Therefore, to reduce/prevent infections, various antibacterial compounds have been used for all types of textiles. The solutions of disinfectant used are generally active in vitro, but, it is also necessary to know the effectiveness of disinfected cloths while in use. In the current study, eco-friendly natural antimicrobial finishes have been prepared from the plant extracts for textile application. Out of 35 plants having antimicrobial properties ten (10) nos. of plants have been selected on the basis of availability as well as knowing its antimicrobial function. The different parts of the plants such as root and leaf were extracted using different solvents like ethanol, methanol, acetone and aqueous solution. These extracts were tested by diffusion method against three isolated bacteria associated with cotton fabrics to confirm the antimicrobial activity. The durability of the fresh and aged extract up to 6 month with their effectiveness against all isolated bacteria were also examined. Finally five herbal extracts from Achyranthes aspera, Adhatoca vasica, Ageratum conyzoides, Bambusa tulda and Chromolaena odorata with methanol have been applied on cotton fabrics by direct application method. Different concentrations of herbal extracts (100%, 50%, 25%, 12.5%, 6.25% and 3.125%) were applied to 100% cotton material for developing antimicrobial finish on the material. All tests done on organisms showed results up to 25% concentration except Adhatoca vasica, which showed results up to 3.125% concentration (Isolate II) and Ageratum conyzoides showed results only at 100% concentration in case of isolate I. All the treatments with methanol extracts showed good antimicrobial properties. The wash durability of the fabrics up to 10(ten) wash cycles against bacteria were done to evaluate the durability of the finished fabrics. The results of the present study showed that the most susceptible bacteria were Bacillus clausii bacteria in all standard test methods. It has been observed that there is a decreasing trend on the antibacterial activity of the finish material with every wash cycle. The treated fabrics were then analyzed for physical properties such as stiffness, crease recovery angle, tensile strength, elongation, wicking height etc. Decrease in tensile strength was observed in both warp and weft direction which could be due to the various treatment given to the material. Results showed that the effect of Adhatoca vasica extract was stronger than other herbal extract used in the study. It was also observed from the research findings carried out by other research workers that the antimicrobial effect of plant extract varies from one plant to another and also from place to place. This may be due to many factors such as the effect of climate, soil composition, age and vegetation cycle of plant, quality, quantity and composition of extracted product and different bacterial strains.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    EFFECT OF STRUCTURAL DESIGN ON THE PERFORMANCE OF ERI-UNION FABRICS
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2017-07) Duarah, Pomima; Kaur, Satvinder
    This study on “Effect of structural design on the performance of eri-union fabrics” was carried out with the following objectives: 1. To construct eri union fabrics of different structure using selected yarns. 2. To study the physical and comfort properties of the constructed fabrics. 3. To study the effect of laundering on the constructed fabrics. 4. To study the suitability of the fabrics for different garments. For the purpose of the study eri, red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used to construct the eri union fabrics on the fly shuttle handloom to create plain eri union fabrics and using jacquard attachment with jacquard accessories like lingoes, mail eye etc. to create patterned eri union fabrics. Eri was used as warp and red eri, cotton, polyester, acrylic and rayon yarns were used as weft. Five plain weave eri union fabrics and five patterned eri union fabrics were woven. The constructed eri union fabrics were tested with standard test methods for mechanical properties (weight, thickness, thread count, cover factor), physical properties (strength, elongation, pilling, abrasion, tearing, and stiffness) and comfort properties (absorption, wicking, air permeability, and thermal conductivity), drapability test done and analysed using suitable statistical techniques. Visual assessment was also done for the woven eri union fabrics with the help of a structured questionnaire. Opinion of the respondents was taken regarding the general appearance, lustre, and handle, texture of the woven eri union fabrics and also the effect of laundering on the fabrics. Findings revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics highly suitable for garments. Laundering did not show noticeable change in the fabric samples. Further, garments were designed and constructed using the woven patterned eri union fabrics and opinion of the respondents was taken on the suitability of the patterned fabrics for the garments which revealed that the patterned eri union fabrics are suitable for different garments.
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    DESIGNING AND CREATING OF APPARELS INSPIRED FROM TRADITIONAL MOTIFS OF MISHING COMMUNITY OF ASSAM
    (AAU, Jorhat, 2017-01) Chungkrang, Lizamoni; Phukan, Ava Rani
    Designs are of great importance when it comes to give an enchanting and intriguing look to the textile products. Textile designing is full of creativity and scope with vast horizon, and is a demanding and emerging field. With the changing world of fashion, the field of textile demands for unique, different and fresh designs which give us the opportunity to use the adapted traditional motifs. Escalating demands of consumers requires modification in the fashion industry with respect to design, colour, style and technique. So, an attempt was made to designing apparels inspired from traditional motifs Mishing community of the Assam with following objectives- 1. To study and document the traditional motifs and designs of Mishing Community of Assam 2. To develop and create patterns for apparel using the existing motifs in a diversified way 3. To construct selected apparels for adolescents 4. To assess the consumer acceptability of the products. Through this study the investigator attempts to popularize the traditional textile motifs of Mishing community and its value addition to different apparels. To carry out the study, wide range of Mishing traditional textile motifs were documented and collected from six selected districts of Assam- Dhemaji, Lakhimpur, Dibrugarh, Sibasagar, Jorhat and Golaghat through personal visit to common textile weavers. A preliminary study was conducted on the selection of the motifs. A set of fifty two numbers of ladies and gents apparels suitable for adolescents were designed and sketched with different colour combination and placed the chosen motifs for their opinion. Out of fifty two, fourteen designs were selected based on the results of the survey conducted. The selected designs were: 1(W), 2(W), 3(F), 4(W), 5(E), 6(W), 6(F), 7(E), 8(B), 9(B), 10(W), 11(W), 12(W), and 13(W). For woven techniques, peg plans were prepared in REACH Tax Software for each and every motif and carried out the weaving process. For other three techniques, the patterns of motifs were developed in Coral Draw Software. The basic blocks were prepared and drafted based on the standardized body measurements. The cost of each constructed garments were calculated by considering the cost of material, cost of accessories used, labour cost and the profit. The constructed apparels with different techniques were: Tunic (woven), Short summer dress (woven), Long gown (fabric painting), Top and Capri (woven), Palazzo (embroidery), Kurti (woven), Kurti (fabric painting), Fitted skirt and top (embroidery), Stole (block printing), Mekhela chadar (block printing), Neck tie (woven), Gent’s formal shirt (woven), Nehru jacket (woven) and Gent’s waist jacket (woven). The constructed apparels were displayed at the Department of Textiles and Apparel Designing, Faculty of Home Science, AAU, Jorhat and systematically evaluated by a panel of 50 judges including staff members and Ph.D scholars based on criteria’s like proper placement of the motifs, forms of existing motifs, colour combination, fitness and overall appearance of the apparel. The constructed apparels were again evaluated by 50 consumers from different fields of textiles, to assess the consumer’s acceptability in terms of general appearance, design of the apparel, colour combination of the apparels, selection of the traditional motif, arrangement of the motif, colour combination of the motifs. The evaluation was carried out in Faculty of Home Science, Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat-13, Department of Fashion Technology, Women’s University, Jorhat and Jorhat market, including faculty members; Post graduate students, Ph.D scholars and Fashion designers. The evaluation was carried out with the help of a structured questionnaire. From the results of the survey, majority of the respondents rated as excellent in terms of general appearance, design of apparels, colour combination, selection of the motifs, techniques used for developing the motifs, arrangement of the motifs and overall appearance of the constructed apparel. They also stated that all selected motifs were nicely incorporated in the respective apparels with exclusive colour combinations. Among all the 14 numbers of constructed apparel, the Design No. 1(W) was rated 1st rank whereas Design No. 6(F), 12(W), 10(W), 11(W), 8(B), 6(W), 3(D), 13(W), 5(E), 9(B), 2(W), 4(W) and 7(E) were rated rank from 2nd to 14th respectively. From the above findings it can be concluded that it is possible to develop new and interesting designs from the existing Mishing traditional motifs to meet the excessive demands of contemporary designs in the fashion and apparel fields and also increase the variety of designs in the field of textiles. This study will help the fashion designers for creating more innovative ideas in the field of fashion designing and also it will help the motivates people to come up with an ingenious work, which indirectly help in upgrading the art and craft of Assam as well as India’s.