ANITHA, DSONIYA, M2019-05-212019-05-212018http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810104110D5752Natural dyed textiles are in demand by consumers to help save the environment from disastrous and harmful effect of toxic chemical dyes and other ingredients. Being ecofriendly these natural dyes are sought after for their uncommon and soothing shades. There is a whole spectrum of colours that are derived from a variety of plants which can be used to make plant dye. New, cheap and easily available sources are sought after to develop and add more colours to the already existing colour spectrum. A new dye source Madhumalti flowers (Combretum indicum) a vine with red flower clusters which is locally available was selected for study. Dye extraction and dyeing was carried out using Microwave radiation in order to reduce the time and energy consumption which is major drawback in conventional method of dyeing with natural dyes. Three ecofriendly mordants alum, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate were selected for this study. Phytochemical analysis was done to the extract of Madhumalti flowers and found that the extract consists of flavonoids, saponins, phenols, tannins and terponoids. Aqueous and acidic media of extraction were selected as these two methods showed higher colour yield and found no colour yield in the alkaline medium of extraction. The dye concentration and time of extraction was measured in the spectrophotometer and standardised simultaneously considering the ABS values. It was found that the 9, 10 percent at 105, 120 s and 6, 9 per cent at 120 s of extraction in aqueous and acidic media respectively has shown maximum ABS values at maximum wavelength of 420 nm. The method of mordanting was optimised and pre mordanting method was selected as the colour yield and K/S values were higher over post mordanting. The xii optimised mordant concentrations of 10 per cent, 4 per cent and 1 per cent for alum, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate respectively were selected. The dyeing time for pre mordanted samples at 9 per cent dye concentration in aqueous extraction and 105 s of extraction time had exhibited higher colour strength at 90 s for alum and 75 s for both stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate. At 10 per cent aqueous dye concentration and 120 s of extraction time had exhibited higher colour strength at 75 s for alum, 90 s for stannous chloride and 105 s for ferrous sulphate. Similarly the dyeing time for pre mordanted samples for 6 and 9 per cent acidic extraction and 105 s of extraction time had exhibited higher colour strength values at 90 s for alum, 120 & 105 s for stannous chloride and 105 s for ferrous sulphate. Fabric dyed in Madhumalti flowers using alum, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate mordants had produced soft, pastel yellowish green shades. The dyed samples were analysed for colourfastness to sunlight, washing, crocking and perspiration. The sunlight fastness rating samples of both aqueous and acidic extraction at 10 and 9 per cent dye concentration with all the three mordants displayed similar ratings. Alum treated sample in acidic media had excellent fastness ratings at lower concentration than aqueous media dyed ones where as stannous chloride mordanted sample of aqueous media had better rating than acidic media at lower concentration. Cost of dyeing using stannous chloride as mordant was found to be slightly higher when compared to alum and ferrous sulphate mordants. But the dye shades obtained with alum as mordant were slightly brighter than other two mordants. Hence dyeing can be done using alum as mordant for cost effectiveness in dyeingen-USnullThesis