Dr. JYOTI V. VASTRADRAJKUMARI DHANALAXMI DEVI2017-12-282017-12-282014-08http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810038304The present investigation titled ‘Eco-friendly antimicrobial finishes on natural colour cotton knits’ was conducted at University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, Karnataka during 2011-2014 with an aim to design natural colour cotton knits with eco-friendly antimicrobial finish. Medium Brown-DMB-225 was processed into single jersey and double jersey fabric. The fabric was tested for its physical and mechanical properties. Bioassay test confirmed the anti microbial activity of extracts that were later applied by direct and microencapsulation methods on to the knits by pad-dry-cure technique. The performance of finished fabric was carried out through AATCC-147 and AATCC-30 test method against bacteria and fungi respectively. Knit wear products for compressional, intimate, sports and casual uses were designed, some of which were assessed for functionality among the patients with skin disorders. Experimental results revealed that waxed yarn exhibited better coefficient of friction and reduced yarn hairiness that could withstand the abrasion caused during fabric construction. Wale per inch, course per inch, stitch length, stitch density and grams per square meter, bursting strength of double jersey fabric was higher than single jersey fabric. However single jersey fabric exhibited better air permeability than double jersey fabric. The phytochemicals such as alkaloids, flavonoids, phenolic acid and tannins, saponins and terpenoids were present in asan, cinnamon, jamun and neem extracts but, saponins was absent in jamun leaf extract. Total phenolic content of the ethanolic extract was higher than methanolic or aqueous extracts. Concentrated extracts showed greater zone of inhibition against S. aureus and E. coli followed by 10 per cent and 5 per cent extract concentrations confirmed by bio-assay results. Fabric finished with neem extracts showed greater zone of inhibition followed by cinnamon, asan and jamun treated fabrics. Characterization of microcapsules through SEM analysis revealed the adherence of the microcapsules between fibre assembly and the size ranging from 4m to 22m with wall shell measuring 0.0285±0.005m, 0.133±0.0010m and core measuring 4.672±0.479m, 22.47±0.020m, respectively. Among the treatment method, higher zone of inhibition was observed on fabric finished with direct method than the microcapsule coated fabrics. Irrespective of extracts, double jersey fabric showed good zone of inhibition than single jersey fabric. Fabric treated with microcapsules are more wash durable than fabric finished with direct method, because of the delayed release of phytoconstituents from thick wall shell. The cost of microcapsules coated fabric was higher than the direct treatment. However the direct treatment using natural sources was Rs 88.99 for single jersey and 133.48 for double jersey per meters of fabric. Extract of such plant sources can also be utilized in other ancillary applications, cosmetics, laundry reagent and skin care products of medicinal value and medical application especially for the compression garments and bandage material wherein durable antimicrobial finish is essential. Besides, the protocol of microencapsulation can be used for variegated end uses viz., aroma fabric, flame retardency, UV protective fabric and phase change material.ennullThesis