Anita RaniBhandari, Babita2019-02-112019-02-112018-04http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810094343Colouring the textiles with dyes has been an ancient craft known to mankind around the world. Present day environmental conditions compel human beings to remain covered with textiles processed through green technology for protection against effects of climate change. Hence natural dyes’ use in textile colouration sector has increased. Exploiting natural sources of dyes may create undesirable burden on environment. So in this study, weed plants had been explored for their dyeability. Weeds grow faster and absorb nutrients more efficiently and thus limiting their availability to crop plants. In this study, two sources i.e. Rumex nepalensis and Girardinia diversifolia which are abundantly available as weeds in hilly regions of Uttarakhand were used for dyeing of silk and wool fabrics. Optimization of dyeing conditions and effect of mordants on colour strength and fastness properties were assessed. Box-Behnken Design of Response Surface Methodology was used for optimization of dyeing variables for application of both dyes on silk and wool fabrics. The optimized dyeing variables obtained for application of R. nepalensis on silk fabric were 1.12% w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 81.599 minutes dyeing time whereas in case of wool optimized dyeing variables were 0.992 % w/v dye concentration, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 76.515 minutes dyeing time. In case of G. diversifolia,2.91% w/v dye, 90ºC dyeing temperature and 90 minutes dyeing time was found optimum for dyeing of silk fabric and dye concentration of 2.62 % w/v, dyeing temperature of 90ºC and dyeing time of 30 minutes were found to be optimum for dyeing of wool fabric. Mordanting method and concentrations of selected natural (amla, pomegranate peel and harad) as well as synthetic mordants (alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate) were optimized on the basis of colour strength and wash fastness. The colourfastness properties of dyed silk and wool fabric samples improved after mordanting with both types of mordants in case of two dyes used in the study. Application of both dyes and mordants on silk and wool fabrics improved the UPF and antimicrobial properties when compared with their control samples. Tensile strength and elongation of mordanted dyed fabrics was significantly affected from undyed fabrics but not from dyed fabrics. Residues of few heavy metals were found on the dyed fabrics but those were present within permissible limit. Since no chemicals are used at any stage of dyeing, this study can be useful for small scale dyers who have no access to effluent treatment facility and generated wastewater can be safely discharged into the environment.ennullThesis