Rose, Neelam M.Sharma, Rubi2020-02-042020-02-042019http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810142402Environment and ecology occupy a prominent place among the key focal issues faced by the world today. Due to the awareness on environmental impact of polluting nature of textile effluent released by chemical processing of textiles, the pressure is increasing on the textile processing industries to use eco-friendly finishing processes to save environment. Keeping in view the current scenario of environmental consciousness, the present study was planned to assess the effect of different enzyme treatments on dyeing efficiency of wool for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Comparative analysis was done alkali, enzyme and neutral scoured fabrics for selection of the best scouring method for preparation of woolen fabric. One natural dye was selected on the basis of higher percent dye uptake and fastness grades. Out of four enzymes, top ranked two enzymes were selected on the basis of better geomateric and surface properties exhibited by the treated fabrics. Standardization of enzymes treatments for selected two enzymes was done on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness rating for different enzyme concentrations and treatment conditions. The scoured fabric was pretreated with both the selected enzymes and dyed with selected natural dye. Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) of selected dye, scoured and dyed woolen samples was done. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the enzyme treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the enzyme treated and treated dyed fabrics were also tested. Results revealed that neutral scoured sample showed more increase in fabric count and less reduction in fabric weight and thickness as compared to alkali and enzyme scoured samples, thus neutral method of scouring was selected for preparation of woolen fabric. It was found that percent dye absorption and wash fastness of kachnar(Bauhinia variegata) dye was higher for all the four enzymes as compared to marigold dye, hence kachnar dye was selected for dyeing of woolen fabric. Among all the enzymes, lipase and protease exhibited reduced percent shrinkage and percent weight loss and enhanced gloss of woolen fabric,thus selected for pretreatment of woolen fabric. The optimized parameters for enzyme treatments of scoured woolen fabric were 0.50 percent enzyme concentration, 1:20M:L Ratio, 7.5 pH, 65°C treatment temperature and 60 minutes treatment time for lipase enzyme. All these treatment variables were same for the protease enzyme except 0.25 percent enzyme concentration. FTIR analysis demonstrated the change in various chemical compositions on the fabric surface due to scouring and dyeing treatments. Both the enzyme treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to very good (4/5) colour fastness properties. The results indicated that between both the enzyme treated dyed fabrics, lipase treated dyed fabric showed maximum decrease in bending length (3.25 cm) and crease recovery angle (132.09) whereas protease treated dyed sample showed maximum increase in tensile strength (23.98 kg)more increase in elongation (28.47%) and wickability (6.18 cm). The lipase treated and kachnardyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (127.79) indicating excellent protection category while in protease treated dyed fabric UPF value was (110.98). The lipase enzyme treated dyed fabrics exhibited bacterial resistance against S. aureus (94.53%) and E. coli (91.40%). Hence it is concluded that enzyme treatments enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the woolen fabric with better colour fastness properties. The enzyme pretreatment and kachnar dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of woolen fabric with excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack. Thus the enzymes are suitable replacement materials for woolen fabric in textile wet processing due to their positive response towards environment and no harmful effect on fabric properties.ennullThesis