Lalita RaniSavita2023-04-222023-04-222022-07https://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810196552Increasing concern about environmental pollution in all sphere of life has raised grave concern and heated debates around the world about the concept of ecology and environment. The present study has been planned to assess the effect of different biomordants treatment on dyeing efficiency of cotton for substituting metal based mordant and salts. Standardization of biomordants treatment for two biomordants i.e. lemon and Henna was done on the basis of percent dye absorption, colour strength and wash fastness rating for different biomordants concentration and treatment conditions. The desized and scoured fabrics were pretreated with the two biomordants and dyed with ashoka bark dye. Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis of biomordants treated fabrics of selected dye. SEM analysis demonstrated smoother surface of biomordant treated sample. The colour coordinates, colour strength and colour fastness of the biomordant treated dyed samples were assessed. Various mechanical, performance and functional properties of the biomordants treated dyed fabric were also tested. Comparative analysis was also done between scoured fabric treated with biomordants and dyed with natural dye. The parameter optimized for biomordants treatment of scoured fabric were premordanting stage with 5 and 10 per cent concentration, 1:30 M:L Ratio, 4pH, 70°and 60°C treatment temperature and 60 and 60 minutes treatment time for Henna and lemon respectively. All these treatment variables were same for the scoured fabric. All the two biomordant treated dyed samples exhibited good (4) to good (4) colour fastness properties. The results revealed that among both the biomordants treated dyed fabrics, lemon treated dyed fabric showed maximum increase in bending length (2.13 cm) and lemon treated dyed sample showed highest increase in elongation (42.72%), crease recovery angle (114.60 degree) in Henna, moisture regain (12.09 %) in Henna treated and wickability (4.19cm) in Henna treated. The scoured Henna treated and ashoka bark dyed fabric showed the highest UPF value (47.55) indicating excellent protection category while in scoured lemon treated dyed fabric UPF value was (44.65). The biomordants treated dyed fabrics showed bacterial resistance against E. coli (91.41%) and S. aureus (92.51%). Thus it is concluded that biomordants treatment enhanced the dyeing efficiency of the cotton fabric with better colour fastness properties. The biomordant pretreatment and ashoka bark dye improved the mechanical and performance properties of cotton fabric with very good to excellent protection from UV radiation and bacterial attack.EnglishThesis