ENGINEERED GREEN PAINTS FOR COMMERCIAL TEXTILE PRINTING

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Date
2021-04-15
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PROFFESSOR JAYASHANKAR TELANGANA STATE AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY
Abstract
India is the country with rich biodiversity and traditional knowledge and skill to produce eco-friendly natural dyed textiles. India is also in the second place as the largest producer of textile products including handmade and industry processed. Recently, the textile wet processing industry is becoming famous not in terms of production or improved GDP, but in-terms of shut down due to the heavy pollution emission. As, textile wet processing units demands a heavy load on their ETP’s, the cost incurred in maintenance became a major concern to the industry and as well as to the government resulting in leaving a very high carbon foot print. The research is aimed at using all natural textile auxiliaries and pigments to produce bottled textile paints suitable for ready application on textiles. The textile auxiliaries selected are, two thickeners such as tamarind seed kernel powder and precipitated calcium carbonate; two resins such as cashew nut seed liquid and chitosan; two plasticizers such as cold pressed castor oil and linseed oil. They were tested for their substantively, finally a wet base consisting tamarind seed kernel powder (TSKP), castor oil (CO), cashew nut seed liquid (CNSL) were used for the study. Five natural dye sources were selected for the study including annatto seed, marigold flower, sappan heartwood, pomegranate rind and indigo. All natural dye sources were boiled in water as aqueous method except indigo to produce the liquid pigment. Indigo fermented pot liquor was used for the study. Textile paints in seven colours viz, yellow, orange, red, purple, indigo, green and black were produced from Name of the Author : Lakshmi Pooja Sanku I.D. No. : HHD/2016-009 Title of the Thesis : Engineered Green Paints for Commercial Textile Printing Degree to which it is submitted : Doctor of Philosophy in Home Science Major field : Textiles and Apparel Designing Faculty : Home Science Major Advisor : Dr. (Mrs.) A. Padma University : Professor Jayashankar Telangana State Agricultural University Year of Submission : 2020 liquid natural dye pigments along with base in combination of three mordants including alum, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate. Three preservatives including cow urine, cow arku, sodium benzoate were used and their efficiency in improving the shelf life of the pigments for one year was studied, from which cow urine found to be the best preservative for pigments. The shelf life of paints in terms of microbial growth and packaging stability were tested using IS and ASTM standards. All paints prepared were printed on pre washed cotton, viscose rayon, silk and polyester plain woven fabrics using screen printing technique and the printed fabrics were treated with steam and vinegar washed for better fixation of pigment and to maintain the clear white background of the fabric. All the printed fabrics were evaluated for their geometrical and mechanical properties like yarn and fabric count, thickness, wickability, stiffness and tear strength. Colourfastness test methods for fastness to sunlight, washing dry and wet crocking and acidic and alkaline perspiration were also done by adopting AATCC, BIS, ASTM, JIS test procedures. The advance properties of the printed fabrics for their efficiency in UV protection and bacterial resistance were also tested following AS/NZS and AATCC test protocols. The effluents from the process was analysed for heavy metal content and oxygen demand in terms of COD and BOD3, which helped in testing developed paints for their eco-friendliness. Costing and consumer acceptance of the paints prepared and printed fabrics were studied respectively so as to check their commercial feasibility Therefore, engineered ‘green’ paints for commercial textile printing was a unique product, developed after analysing its attributes in terms of its end-use characteristics, environmental friendliness, quality checking, market feasibility, direct application, speed of production and consumer acceptability. In this study, all these aspects are satisfied in production of green paints for direct printing of natural and synthetic fabrics with natural dyes which itself is a unique product. With thorough research review, it was learnt that such organic paint product is not developed for commercial purpose so far. Therefore, the possibility of patenting the engineered natural pigment paint and the process will be explored through the use of developed paints and supply of raw materials. The research was focused on engineering an end to end product understanding the characteristics of various auxiliaries, pigments and effect of preservatives on them, developing an oil in water paint for textiles applications, analyzing the keeping quality of the paints developed and fabrics printed with them. Taking these things into concern the present study is aimed to engineer a product that can readily be used as textile paint with minimal effluent discharge without heavy metal content and reduced oxygen demand, without any volatile solvent resulting no air pollution. The product is also aimed at using natural raw materials so as to benefit the farmers and rural folk in cultivation or collection of raw materials. Having considered as green paints they open a huge export market too resulting in solving the major issues of concern for the survival of textile dyeing and printing industry. The developed paints can find a huge share in handmade textile industry too, as availability of natural dyes and auxiliaries to print or paint textiles, time incurred in preparation of natural colours and skill in developing fast colour became a major concern for once flourished craft from India.
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