Process development for printing with dyes extracted from wax mallow (Malvaviscus arboreus) flowers and henna (Lawsonia inermis) leaves
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Date
2005-07
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
The knowledge and use of colour on textiles is one of the most important processes of fabric development and utilization. Earlier colours were derived from natural sources only. The most fascinating aspect of natural dyes is their glow and charming variability. It is considered that natural dyes yield luster, rich colour, aromatic smell, soft and light shades, soothing to human eyes and have good source of experimentation quality on natural fibres as well as on synthetic fibres. The present study was done on the process development for printing on mulberry and tasar silk fabrics with Henna (Lawsonia inermis) leaves and Wax mallow (Malvaviscus arboreus) flowers. The study showed that these sources can produce different shades of brown, black, pink and orange colour prints. A series of experiments were conducted to optimize the different variables viz., amount of dye concentrate and concentration of mordants for printing on mulberry and tasar silk fabrics. Acidic medium was selected for Wax mallow flowers and aqueous medium for Henna leaves. Amount of dye concentrate used in printing paste was optimized and it was 3 ml for mulberry silk fabric and 5 ml for tasar silk fabric. In case of Henna leaves, best colour prints on mulberry silk fabric was obtained by using 3.0 per cent ferrous sulphate, 1.5 per cent copper sulphate, 1.0 per cent stannous chloride, 5.0 per cent alum, 5 ml harda and 1 ml pomegranate rind, whereas 3.0 per cent ferrous sulphate, 2.0 per cent copper sulphate, 1.0 per cent stannous chloride, 5.0 per cent alum, 3 ml harda and 5 ml pomegranate rind gave best print on tasar silk fabric. In case of Wax mallow flower it was found that 3.0 per cent ferrous sulphate, 3.0 per cent copper sulphate, 3.0 per cent stannous chloride, 5.0 per cent alum, 1 ml harda and pomegranate rind gave best print on mulberry silk whereas 3.0 per cent ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride, 1.0 per cent copper sulphate 15.0 per cent alum, 1ml harda and pomegranate rind gave best print on tasar silk fabric.
It was observed that the colour fastness to light, washing, perspiration and crocking of both the dyes was found to be improved with the use of mordants. Mulberry and tasar silk products were developed using screen printing technique. These products were short kurta, cushion cover and bag. Motifs from Aipan designs were adopted to print the products. Cost of all articles was calculated. It was found to be affected by different variables i.e. cost of fabric, ingredients, electricity consumed and labour cost. Cost of products using tasar silk fabric was higher than mulberry silk because tasar silk fabric was more expensive than mulberry silk fabric. The cost of printing paste was found to be increased when ingredients of higher cost were used in printing paste. Cost of products was also affected by electricity and time consumed in preparation of products. Natural fabric printed with natural dyes in soft and subdued shades with folk designs creates a fashion statement. Thus it can be exploited commercially to create opportunities for rural employment.
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