VALUE ADDITION TO DECCAN PLATEAU WOOL FOR DEVELOPING HANDLOOM FABRICS
Loading...
Files
Date
2014
Authors
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
ACHARYA N.G. RANGA AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY, RAJENDRANAGAR, HYDERABAD
Abstract
The deccani sheep breed is a source for coarse wool-cum-meat. Gongali/ kambali is a traditional multi-purpose blanket with coarse deccani fibres. On an account of declining institutional and government purchases, the market for the kambali has collapsed. Thus, innovative approaches towards the use of deccani wool fibre will improve value added products that have potential market, which not only helps to provide livelihood security to the rural people but also improves export from the country as well address the burning issues like increasing demand, restoration of endangered sheep breed of the Deccan plateau, employment generation in rural and semi urban areas and will open new avenues in the field of research. Keeping in view the above advantages, coarser deccani wool fibres can be softened with enzymes in order to attain pliable, smooth and good handle fabrics, thereby improving its processing and utilization. Enzymes being natural products are completely bio-degradable and require low activation energy to soften the fibres for further usage with enhanced fibre properties. Therefore the present study was undertaken to assess the performance characteristics of the enzymes treated (Papain and Pepsin with 1 per cent concentration) deccani wool fibres. After enzymatic treatment the deccani wool fibres were hand spun into yarn and along with cotton yarn, plain and twill weave fabrics were developed. Developed fabrics were subjected to various laboratory tests to evaluate the geometrical, handle, comfort and mechanical properties with the standard BIS and ASTM procedures.
The tested results of the study were compiled, tabulated and statistically analyzed using mean values, percentage and weighted mean score for objective and subjective evaluations. End results were statistically analyzed for its correlation between different parameters by using two way ANOVA (factorial CRD) test.
Yarn count and fabric count was increased due to the treatment. After the treatment, handle and aesthetic properties of the fabric has resulted in positive changes. The fabric weight, stiffness and thickness were decreased with enzyme treatment. The drape coefficient of the fabric was decreased which implied that the drape of the fabric was increased. Considerable changes were noticed in the comfort properties.
The mechanical properties of the fabric were decreased with an increase in enzyme concentrations. The tensile strength was reduced for the enzymes treated
samples. The pilling was decreased enhancing the aesthetics and abrasion resistance was improved after softening treatment.
Among two enzymes, Papain showed improved textile properties then Pepsin in all treated samples of plain and twill weave fabrics, in which 50:50/50:50 sample showed good results for both the weaves.
From subjective evaluation of treated fabrics received high ranking than the untreated fabrics, thus improving its aesthetics. Enzyme-I 50:50/50:50 twill fabrics were found to have better performance characteristics than enzyme-II treatment fabrics. The cost of the wet processing was economically viable for adoption at the commercial level.
On the whole enzyme treatment to deccani wool improves several important fabric properties such as surface smoothness; handle properties; mechanical properties necessary for enhancing their suitability to textiles.
Description
Keywords
VALUE ADDITION, DECCAN PLATEAU, WOOL, DEVELOPING, HANDLOOM, FABRICS