Eco Friendly Processing of Eri Silk To Promote Value Chain
Loading...
Files
Date
2007
Authors
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
ACHARYA N.G. RANGA AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY, RAJENDRANAGAR, HYDERABAD
Abstract
India is the only country in the world which produces all the four varieties of
silk namely Mulberry, Tussar, Eri and Muga and ranks second largest producer of both
mulberry and non mulberry silks next to china. Many communities in Assam,
especially the bodos consider eri silk a part of their age old culture and civilization. The
popularity of eri pupae as a tasty and nutritious food item also ensured that silk was
relegated to the position of a by-product in eri culture.
Now, there is a vast scope for development of Ericulture. Non traditional states
like Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamilnadu, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Punjab and Utter
Pradesh considering the potentiality of eri silk, ericulture had been initiated in Andhra
Pradesh in recent years due to the suitability of its climate. The Sericulture wing of
department of industries, government of Andhra Pradesh had established eri silk farms
in Devarakonda of Nalgonda, Peapally in Kurnool, and Shadnagar in Mahboobnagar
districts to extend the technical support to eri growers. The tribals were trained in eri
silk worm rearing and production is initiated. The spinning of the eri cocoons was also
initiated by the government of Andhra Pradesh.
Both fibroin and sericin are protein in nature; the treatment necessary to remove
sericin from fibroins tends to hydrolyse both proteins. To address this problem,
enzymatic treatment was suggested to remove sericin in place of conventional soap-soda
treatment. Proteases improved the degumming efficiency. Soft feel and maximum weight
reduction were possible without affecting the fiber strength and hairiness. Concentration
level of 3% enzyme and 3% soda was selected for degumming of eri silk. In this
particular concentration levels increased whiteness of the yarns from yellow.
This poor man’s industry requires due attention for technological up gradation
to improve production and productivity. Recent trends in the world market of silk
revealed that eri silk had tremendous potential as it was gifted with unique properties of
protecting human body from some aliments as well as its use as fashionable dress and
furnishing materials besides providing comfort of warmth. To suit the norms of the
present national and international market, dyeing eri silk with natural dyes contributes to
its value chain. Taking into consideration the above facts, the present study was
undertaken to extract dye from Allamanda grandiflora and Madhuca latifolia dye
sources and use it for dyeing of eri silk yarns and asses their colour fastness properties.
Much research in this field had not taken place so far, due to the limited
availability of fibre in north eastern states. As the fibre production is increased, it has
become necessary to develop processes that helps in improving its value chain. Hence
the present study was taken up with an objective of developing eco friendly finishing and
dyeing process for eri silk with natural dyes to promote its value chain.
Description
Keywords
Eco Friendly, Processing, Eri, Silk, Promote, Value, Chain