OPTIMIZATION OF Tamarindus indica L. DYE FOR SURFACE ENRICHMENT OF SILK FABRIC
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Date
2023
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Abstract
The art of dyeing and printing has played a vital role in adding beauty to textile. Increased awareness regarding environmental issues has vastly encouraged the idea of using eco-dyes and eco-printing for textiles offers numerous benefits, as their preparation and application involved minimal or no harsh chemical reaction that are good for nature and also have positive effects on the wearer’s health. In the field of textiles, the present era can truly be called the era of eco-dyeing and printing. Value addition of the silk fabric through eco-dyeing and printing will lead to more consumer acceptance in the National on International markets thereby, more profitability. Dyeing and printing also add natural value to mulberry silk, making it more attractive and allowing for the creation of diversified products. In light of these benefits, the researcher conducted a study on “Optimization of Tamarindus indica L. Dye for Surface Enrichment of Silk Fabric”, with the following objectives:
• Optimization of dyeing condition of Tamarind seed dye on mulberry silk fabric
• Surface enrichment of dyed fabric using eco-printing method
• Analysis of properties of dyed and printed fabrics
To carry out the study, mulberry silk fabric with two different mordants (Alum and Aloe vera) was selected. Seeds of tamarind (Tamarindus indica L.) were selected after pre-testing as a natural dye source. For the study, selected natural dye and mulberry silk fabrics were collected from the local market of Jorhat district, and mordants were collected from the campus of the Assam Agricultural University, Jorhat. Identification of samples was done by assigning names to each a C (Control sample), CT (Without mordanted), CTA1 (Alum mordanted), CTA2 (Aloe vera mordanted), DMEA1 (Dyed fabric with Manjistha Eco-print using Alum as mordant), and DMEA2 (Dyed fabric with Marigold Eco-print using Alum as mordant).
Different dyeing conditions such as extraction medium, extraction time, dye material concentration, dyeing time, mordant concentration, mordanting time and mordanting methods such as (pre, simultaneous and post) were optimized. A pre-treatment method such as degumming was carried out for mulberry silk fabric. The optimum dye extracting time was 60 minutes. The extraction was used to dye mulberry silk fabric and the optimum conditions were 1% dye at 60°C for 60 minutes. The surface
of the dyed silk fabric was enriched using eco-printing techniques. Pre-testing was done followed by four techniques i.e., Bundle dye technique, Plain background technique, Tannin target iron blanket technique and Plain target dye blanket technique. Among them, the Plain target dye blanket technique was selected for the study as it shows a better printing effect than others.
SEM analysis was done to determine the surface morphology of the control and dyed silk fabric and the differences in morphology and elements between them were clearly visible. FTIR analysis was used to identify the functional groups and various bonds that were present in the fabric and visible in different spectra. The crystallinity region of the fabrics was identified using XRD analysis and an alteration in the crystallinity structures of dyed silk fabrics compared to the control was discovered. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) of the control, non-mordanted, and different dyed silk fabrics were evaluated and found that the Ultraviolet protection property was increased in dyed silk fabrics.
The samples were evaluated visually and with the help of Greyscale for determining the colourfastness properties such as Colourfastness to Sunlight, Colourfastness to Washing, Colourfastness to Crocking or Rubbing (Dry and Wet), Colourfastness to Pressing (Dry and Wet), Colourfastness to Perspiration (Acidic and Alkaline), which exhibited fair to good ratings with noticeable stained to negligible stained. It was clear from the present investigation that colourfastness properties of natural mordanted samples showed good fastness properties to sunlight, washing, crocking, and pressing as compared to metallic mordant samples.
The control, dyed and printed silk fabric were undergone for a series of physical experiments. The dyed, mordanted and printed silk fabrics were found to be increased in terms of fabric count (Ne), fabric thickness (mm), weight (GSM), tensile strength (N), moisture regain (%), wicking height (cm) and crease recovery (angle) than control silk fabric. The elongation (%) and stiffness (cm) were found to be decreased in dyed, mordanted and printed silk fabric as compared to the control one. Hence, it could be concluded from the study that natural dye with natural mordant and eco-print obtained an excellent effect on mulberry silk fabric and it can be used for the textile industry and eco-friendly textile manufacturing.