VALUE ADDITION TO PIPLI WORK ON SALWAR KAMEEZ
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Date
1999
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Professor Jayashankar Telangana State Agricultural University
Abstract
Indian embroidery is the reflection ofskill, creativity and imagination ofthe Indian Craftsmen. The people in India always yearned for beauty, colourfiilness and attractivenessinclothing.Thisleadtothecreationofmanyweaving,dyeing,printing andembroiderytechniqueswhichformedthemostexquisitepartofthetradition.Dueto diversifiedtalents,interestsandinspirations,hereeachstatehasitsspecialidentityfor itsuniquecrafis.ThestateofOrissaisrenownedforitstextilecrafi calledpipliwork, whichisacombinationofappliquework,mirrorworkandembroidery,puttogetherinto averyattractiveandcolourfulform.Howeverthecraftrestricteditselftothearticlesof differentformsusedforritualsofPuritemple,Thecraftsmenatpresentareinacritical positionduetothe financialcrisisofthetemples. Thepresentstudywastakenupto diversifythiscraftbyapplyingitonsalwarkameezsetswithvalueaddition. AsurveywasconductedinPipliinOrissatoknowaboutthearticlesofpipli work,colours,motifsandtechniquesandtoknowwhetherithadbeenappliedon
salwarkameez ornot. Thesurveyrevealed thedetailsofthe articles, motifsandthe economicsofthework.Itwasfoundthat,thoughthecontemporarypipliworkisdone onmanyarticleslikelampshades,walldecorativesandbedspreads, noattempthas been done to apply it on any women’s apparel, especially on salwar kameez, the versatileandthemostpopularIndiangarment.Anattemptwasmadebytheinvestigator togiveanewdimensiontothedyingcraftandtopopularizeitbyapplyingitonsalwar kameez sets with value additionusing different embellishments. The embellishments wereselectedbyconductingamarketsurveyinHyderabadandSecunderabad Ten salwar kameez designs were selected by a panel often judges. The traditionalmangalgiricottonfabricoftwocoloursnamelybluegreenandpurplewere selectedforthesalwarkameezsets.Thetensetswerestitchedaccordingotheselected designsandthetraditionalpipliworkwasgotdoneonthesesetsbytheartisansatPipli. Valueadditionto thesesetswasdonebyusingembellishmentslikezardosi(twisted metalcoils),beadsandkuna’an(sequin),whichwerethemostpopularmeansofvalue additionatthetimeofthestudy. Alconsumerevaluationwasdonebyapanelof3Ojudges,whichconsistedofthe staffandstudentsofCollegeofHomeScience,Hyderabad.Theresultsoftheevaluation showedthatthedesignedsalwarkameezsetsgotgoodtoverygoodacceptance.Judges opined that they could be readily introduced into the market. The results were Statisticallyanalyzedusinganalysisofvariance—onewayclassificationtoobtainthe relativeacceptabilityranking.ThedesignVIIwasthemostacceptedandthedesignX gotlesseracceptance.DesignIXanddesignIwereonparwithdesignVII.Itcouldbe inferredthatthedesignswiththetypical floralandcreepermotifsweremoreaccepted andtheyhaveanedgeoverthepurelygeometricmotifs.Thestudyrevealedthatthese salwar kameez sets ofpipli work with value addition could be popularized on a commercialbasis.
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D5972