ADOPTION OF MANGALGIRI WOVEN DESIGNS TO KAMEEZ SETS

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Date
2001
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Professor Jayashankar Telangana State Agricultural University
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HandloomindustryisthebackboneOfruraleconomy. Thehandloom sectorisknown forits heritage and thetradition ofexcellentcraftsmanship. Thehandloomindustryhasnotonlysurvivedbutalsogrownoverthedecades due tO its inherent strength like openness to innovation and immense possibility Of designing fabrics. The people in India always yearned for beauty,colourfulnessandattractivenessinclothing. Thisleadtothecreation Ofmanydyeing, printingand weavingtechniques, which formed the most exquisite,part Of the tradition. Due to diversi fi ed talents, interests and inspirations, each State has its special identity for its unique crafts. For centuries, Andhra Pradesh has acquired popularity in the production of cotton sarees. Mangalgiri ofAndhra Pradesh is famous for producing a . varietyofzariborderedpurecottonsareeswithdistinctivedesigns woven into VIII them. The Mangalgiri bordersgive much freedom fordesigningtosuitthe kameezsets. ThepresentstudywastakenuptoadopttheMangalgiriwoven designstokameezsets. A survey was conducted in Mangalgiri in Andhra Pradesh to know aboutthevariousmotifsand designsusedinthebordersofMangalgirisaree. The available literature indicate that woven patterns of Mangalgiri saree designshavenotadoptedtokameezsets,eventhoughitisa potentialitemin dressdesigning. An attemptwas made bytheinvestigatorto adopt iton kameezsets. With the advice ofthe experts in weaving, three border designs of Mangalgirisareeswereselected and designedtosuitthe kameezsets. Three kameezsetswerewovenatMangalgiri,usingtheselecteddesignwithNizam, halfdiamondandwavyinthreedifferentcoloursnamelygreen,navyblueand maroon with 605x 805count cotton yarns. As the design was intricate, Jacquardtechniquewasusedtoweavethekameezsets. ‘A consumer evaluation was done by a panel of 30 judges, which consistedofthestaffandPostGraduatestudentsofCollegeofHomeScience, Hyderabad. Theresultsoftheevaluationshowedthatthedesigned kameez sets got very good acceptance. Judges opined that these items could be commercialised. The results were statistically analysed using analysis Of IX variance—onewayclassificationtoobtaintherelativeacceptabilityranking. Thekameezset— III wasthe mostwidelyaccepted and kameezset— I was leastaccepted. Alltheconsumersexpressedthatthedesignswerenovel and exquisite. The findingsofthe study revealed,thatthese kameezsetswith wovendesignsofMangalgiricouldbepopularisedonacommercialbasis.
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Citation
D6439
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