KALAMKARI ON JUTE BLENDS
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Date
1999
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Professor Jayashankar Telangana State Agricultural University
Abstract
Jutefibreisknownasgoldenfibreanditislignocellulosicbastfibre,obtained from stalks of corohorus. Jute fibre has certain desirable propertieslikehightensilestrength,gooddyeabilityetc. Indiaisoneofthe most importantjutegrowing countries intheworld. At present, India is passing through great crisis due to the heavy competition from Jute substitutes. Sodiversificationofjute productsforend usesisverymuch necessaryforthebetterfutureofthejuteindustryinIndia. Thepresentstudywasmainlyundertakentodiversify juteproductsthrough-blendingwithviscose, tostudythefeasibilityofusing Kalamkari WorkonjuteviscoseblendedfabricsandbycomparingwithKalamkariwork oncentpercentcottonfabric. Thestudywasmainlydividedinto5parts. 1. Blendingofjutewithviscoseintwoblendproportionssuchas60:40 and40:60. 2. Weavingoftheblendedyarn. 3. MakingKalamkarionblendedsamples. 4. Subjectiveevaluation. 5. CostcalculationofKalmakarisamples.
Jute was procured from Varalaxmi Jute Mills, Rajam, SrikakulamDistrict, Andhra Pradesh and viscose from Siri fibres, Hyderabad. Thefibres wereblendedatInstituteofJuteTechnologyCalcuttawiththeratioof 60:40, 40:60 to compare the suitability of Kalamkari technique on the blends. Weaving ofthe blended yarns was done at Weavers Service Centre,Hyderabadusingplainweave. ThewovenfabricwasenrichedwithKalamkaritechniquetoassessit’sendusefordraperies. KalamkariisawellknownartofIndiaexclusively done at Pedana, a place near Machilipatnam, famous for its Kalamkari Work. Thefollowingprocedures havebeencarried out onthefabricsto makeKalamkarionthefabricssuchasbleachingofthefabric,applicationof myrobalan, applyingcolourswithnaturaldyes,washing boiling, bleaching, starching,applyingalumandbleachingwithsoap. While printingdesigns, bright and basiccolour like red, blackandyellowwere used. The design selectedwas a typical Kalamkari pattern whichresemblesthePersianart. Accordinglycolours anddesignswere selectedtoreflectthetraditionalart. Thesubjectiveevaluationwasdoneby30judgesdrawnfromthestaff 'and post graduate students of College ofHome Science, Hyderabad, to assess the visual characteristics such as texture, thickness, overall appearance, order ofpreference based on the suitability and cost were obtained from the subjective evaluation sheet. Suitable statistical procedureswereemployedtoanalysethedata. Analysis of variance was employedtoanalysethesignificant difference among the blend samples. Tofindouttheorderofpreference,fivepointweightagescorewasusedby assigning weightage five to the first preference and one to the last preference in a decreasing order. Costofproduction ofeach metre of blendedfabricwasestimated. Theresultsofthesubjectiveevaluation revealedthatsample‘B’with40percentjute:60percentviscosewasratedwithmaximumscoresforall the characteristics under the study and was preferred best by the consumers due tothe aestheticappearance, suitability and reasonable cost. Sample”A”wasratedsecondbytheconsumers. Sample‘A’with60percentjute:40percent viscosewhichwasmoreroughandcoarseand thecostofthissampleisrelativelyminimumwhencomparedtosample“”8 Based on the scores received in the subjective evaluation andstatistical analysis, sample40:60jute/viscose blendwas preferred bythe judges due to it’s general appearance, colour absorption and aesthetic appearance. Henceitwasconsideredasthe“optimum blend”amongthe tworatiosstudied.
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D5791