KALAMKARI ON POLYESTER AND POLYESTER—COTTON BLENDS
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Date
1996
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Professor Jayashankar Telangana State Agricultural University
Abstract
Kalamkari is an ancient textile art of painting.It is a kind of mordant dyeing which is exclusively done on cotton Kora cloth. Eventhough still popular, it has limited use due to all cotton fabrics. An attempt was thus made in this study to try it on a polyester—cotton blend and polyester, a synthetic fabric which has dominated the textile scene in India. It was comprehended that this study would provide scope for application of Kalamkari on polyester and polyester~cotton blend and help to improve the natural dye stuff which are ecofriendly. The objectives of the study were to select Suitable method for kalamkari to assess the colour fastness of painted fabrics; to estimate cost of painted fabrics; to study the consumer acceptability and to compare the appearanCe of kalamkari produced on polyester and polyester cotton blend. A survey was conducted to select commonpolyester-cotton blend preferred by consumers 67:33 per cent polyester—cotton blend was selected. Mordants alum, stannous chloride and chrome were found to be suitable in preliminary testing and hence selected for the study. Experiments were conducted to find out suitable mordanting technique for kalamkari on polyester-cotton blend and polyester. Red colour was extracted from Suruduchekka and yellow from myrobalan flower. Premordanting and simultaneous mordanting methods'were selected for red and
yellow colours respectively. Colour fastness tests to washing, light, perspiration, crocking and pressing were conducted. Consumer’s preferences with regard to the aesthetic appeal were selected by subjective evaluation. The results of colour fastness tests revealedthat red colour with all three mordants was excellent to washing on cotton and polyester—cotton. Yellow colour showed fair to good wash fastness on cotton, polyester cotton and polyester with the three mordants used. The light fastness of these colours were found to be not promissing. Only fair light fastness was shown by all fabrics tested. However, polyester-cotton and polyester fabrics painted with chrome mordant were found to be better in fastness. These painted fabrics were found to have good fastness to perspiration in both acidic and alakline conditions. The crock fastness of these colours was poor due to the method of application of the dye i.e., painting and not dyeing. However these fabrics showed excellent fastness to dry and wet pressing. Use of alum as mordant was found to be muchcheaper besides its good colour fastness properties when compared to other two mordants used. Chrome was considered to be a reasonable mordant. Stannous chloride as a mordant on these fabrics had limited use due to high cost and also poor fastness properties. From the subjective evaluation, it was found thatpreference. of the respondents for the three fabrics dyed in red colour using the mordant alum, cotton Was rated high followed by polyester cotton and polyester. Order of preference for fabrics dyed in yellow colour was also cotton, polyester—cotton and polyester. From the above findings, it can be concluded thatKalamkari technique can be successfully employed on polyester—Cotton with two mordants i.e., alum and potassium dichromate. A study can be taken up to improve the colour on polyester through after treatments.
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D4980