Utilization of flax, lyocell and spandex fibers for development of composite yarns and preparation of woven and knit fabrics
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Date
2017-01
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G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar (Uttarakhand)
Abstract
Flax fibers, obtained from Linum usitatissimum, was probably the first plant fiber to be used by man for making of textiles as supported by biblical writings. Flax fibers have inherent strength, UV resistance, good absorbency and wicking properties. Despite having better properties, the use of flax is not much popular. The prime reason is that the spinning of flax is difficult, making its products expensive. This is because its lacks cohesiveness which is a mandatory requirement for spinning. In order to make flax economically spinnable, fibers must be cottonized so that it can be blended with other conventional or unconventional fibers. However, blended linen fabrics lacks the appearance and texture of pure linen fabrics. Furthermore, flax fibers are hard/rigid, lack elasticity and have little resilience. Pure fabrics developed from flax fibers require high maintenance which limited its consumption with elite class of customers. The problems associated with pure linen fabrics was overcome by using composite yarns i.e. cover spun yarns and core spun yarns. Flax fibers, lyocell fibers and spandex filament were used to develop four types of core spun yarns while for cover spun yarns, yarns of selected fibers were used. The developed yarns were tested and used for construction of fabrics using handloom and flat knit machine without the application of sizing and waxing agents. Woven fabrics were manufactured using 2/2 twill weave. Six different woven fabrics were developed from cover spun yarns having same warp with different wefts. Similarly, six fabrics were developed from core spun yarns. Properties of fabrics (developed using cover spun yarns and core spun yarns) were compared inter-se as well as with control fabrics i.e. pure linen and lyocell fabrics. Fabrics developed with cover spun yarns were also compared with fabrics prepared using core spun yarns, despite of having different production techniques. Results showed that woven fabrics developed from composite yarns were thicker with better mechanical, comfort and aesthetic properties than control fabrics i.e. pure linen and lyocell fabrics. Weft knit single jersey fabrics were also developed from composite yarns. Developed fabrics from composite yarns possessed good pilling and abrasion resistance with sufficient air permeability. Clo value and wickability of knit fabrics developed from composite yarns were found high. It was also noted that developed fabrics were easily dyeable with reactive dyes and exhibited very good colourfastness similar to that of control fabrics. Consumer’s acceptability assessment showed that fabrics developed from composite yarns especially stretchable fabrics were preferred over pure fabrics for apparel purposes.
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