A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON PROFILE OF URBAN AND RURAL BASED HANDLOOM WEAVING UNITS OF RAJASTHAN
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Date
2004
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MPUAT, Udaipur
Abstract
Handloom literally refers to a traditional weaving method. Symbolically it stands for much more. It represents a philosophy, a way of life. The philosophy is the simple faith of the Indian folk artisan, the handloom weaver, the man behind the loom. His work stands in evidence of the creative skills of hands and their ability to do whole job. It stands for revitalisation of traditional creative energies that can be infused into our modern civilisation. Though the methods employed in making handloom fabrics are simple, the result is extra ordinary. The human effort results in the creation of products which are both aesthetically delightful and extremely durable. The handloom industry is the largest unorganised sector and constitutes an integral part of the rural life of the country. Despite of strong competition from mill made textiles, handloom fabrics are still in demand primarily because of the popular patronage of the weavers.
The Government has taken several measures to develop the industry for achieving the objectives of providing steady and sustained employment to handloom weavers, ensuring lucrative income and increased production of cloth. Inspite of considerable efforts made to rehabilitate it, the handloom weaving units continue to be in the grip of problems. Hence the present research work on a comparative study on the urban and the rural based handloom weaving units of Rajasthan was undertaken to find out the general characteristic function, structure, mode of production, production output, marketing pattern, income generated, profit earned, role of women, time devotion pattern and problems faced by the handloom weaving units.
The present study was conducted in Rajasthan by selecting one district and one village from each division of Rajasthan. Thus a total of 6 districts and 6 villages were selected on the basis of the highest number of handloom weaving units in the division, district, block and village. As per the objective of the study, samples were selected from the urban as well as the rural areas. Urban area sample was drawn randomly by the units located at district head quarters. A total of 15 handloom weaving units were selected from each district head quarter. The total number of samples from the urban area was 90 (15x6) units. Similarly the selection of the rural handloom weaving units was also done randomly. 15 units from each selected village was taken, making a sample of 90 rural units. The total number of samples for present study was comprised of 180 handloom weaving units. A pretested structured interview schedule was used for the data collection. The most involved person of the unit was interviewed.
The findings of the study showed that 44-47 per cent respondents were from 41-50 years of age. Only 15 per cent of the urban and 10 per cent of the rural unit heads were females while the rest were males. Nearly 25 per cent rural and 30 per cent urban members were illiterate. Higher education was totally absent in the urban as well as the rural areas. For nearly 88-98 per cent it was the sole source of livelihood and for about 90 per cent it was a traditional family occupation. Very few of the respondents received training. Only 44.44 per cent were the member of co-operative societies. Out of a total of 180 units only 25 units were independent while 80 units were functioning through the middle men and 75 units through co-operatives. All the respondents had residence cum work place. 75 per cent of the urban as well as the rural units owned only one loom each and 19.46 per cent two loom each. Fly shuttle and throw shuttle pit looms (125) fly shuttle frame loom (124) and durrie looms (45) were found in Nagour and Bikaner district. Nearly 40 low width fly shuttle pit looms and five durrie loom were found idle. Majority of Kota unit looms had dobby and zacquard attachments. Out of a total of 180 units only 12 units were found hiring labour on part time basis. All the units were working with their own family members.
The results of the study showed that nearly an equal number of units were cotton (83), woollen (75) while only 22 units were producing other textile items. Among the woollen handloom items shawls (74) tweed (72) and blanket (14 units) were woven. Sarees (34), Khes (40), plain fabric (46) furnishing fabric (19), handloom durries (6), and napkins and towels (5) were the cotton handloom items woven. Cotton durrie (16) and Jatt patti (14) were the other textile items woven.
Regarding the sources of procurement of raw material it was found that the units working through middle men or co-operative societies were taking raw material other than sizing material from them while all the independent units purchased raw material from local as well as interstate yarn mandies. Weaving of fabric was the only production out put of the majority of the units while one third of independent and two third of units operating through middle men, also spun yarn i.e. cotton, wool, goat, camel hair, and polyester fibre. It provides them additional income. Regarding the production process it was found that weaving and dry finishing activity were done by almost all the units. Similarly sizing was also done by all cotton and woollen handloom units. Sizing material used were ararot, maida, rice, bazara and wild onion. Few units from Bikaner and Barmer and all Kota units were using pegwarping and brush/street sizing methods. Yarn count used for cotton ranged from 5s/5d to 120 count, for wool it was 5T to 22T or 22s and for cotton durries 6 ply twisted yarn in warp and 10 ply untwisted yarn in weft direction was used. A half of the units were weaving manufacturer's design while one quarter were making their own design. Only Kota sarees and pattu shawl were designed through extra weft with simple geometrical, floral motifs. Plain, rib, basket, twill and its variations were mainly used for cotton and woollen textile items, while discontinuous plain i.e. dovetail weave was used for other textile items.
Marketing of manufactured items was done by only independent units at their own units. Price fixing was done on the basis of raw materials and labour charges and profit expected ranged from 10-20 per cent. Nearly similar labour charges were paid by the middle men and co-operative societies. Income of respondents through weaving ranged from 1500 - 8000 per month. Majority of units working through co-operatives and middle men earned Rs. 1500 - 4000 per month.
To find out the gender difference in role performance of the weavers age and activity status of household population was studied and it was found that 55.18 were female workers and only 44.81 per cent were male workers. Results of work participation rate shows that it reaches up to 97.5 per cent for 36-55 years of age. The overall work participation rate was 53.20 per cent.
Findings regarding the time spending pattern show that women spent maximum time (5.15 hour) on preweaving while men spent nearly equal amount of time on weaving. Post loom process was done by males and females.
Spinning, Skein making, loossening and winding, prim and creel filling, dry and edge finishing were female dominated tasks while preparing warp, sizing, winding of warp, reed filling drawing in were done jointly.
The salient findings indicated that independent weavers faced problems of finance and marketing while the units working through co-operative societies or middle men faced problem of inadequate and untimely supply of raw material, freedom to select the design and low income returns.
On the basis of the findings of the study the need arises to train and motivate the weavers to switch on to the finer weaves and quality fabric in order to raise the quality of life by earning more. Further to educate the weaver is the need of the time
Description
A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON PROFILE OF URBAN AND RURAL BASED HANDLOOM WEAVING UNITS OF RAJASTHAN
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Citation
Babel and Gupta, 2004