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Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar
Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University popularly known as HAU, is one of Asia's biggest agricultural universities, located at Hisar in the Indian state of Haryana. It is named after India's seventh Prime Minister, Chaudhary Charan Singh. It is a leader in agricultural research in India and contributed significantly to Green Revolution and White Revolution in India in the 1960s and 70s. It has a very large campus and has several research centres throughout the state. It won the Indian Council of Agricultural Research's Award for the Best Institute in 1997. HAU was initially a campus of Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana. After the formation of Haryana in 1966, it became an autonomous institution on February 2, 1970 through a Presidential Ordinance, later ratified as Haryana and Punjab Agricultural Universities Act, 1970, passed by the Lok Sabha on March 29, 1970. A. L. Fletcher, the first Vice-Chancellor of the university, was instrumental in its initial growth.
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ThesisItem Open Access Impact of media on fashion adoption behavior among college girls(CCSHAU, 2012) Madan, Priyanka; Yadav, NirmalThe present study was conducted on Impact of media on fashion adoption behavior among college girls. For carrying out the present investigation, questionnaire was developed and finalized by experts. A total of 120 girl’s (60 each from Hisar and Gurgaon cities of Haryana state) pursuing graduate and post graduate level from different colleges between the age group of 18-26 years were selected randomly. The girls of different cities were of different opinion. Girls from Hisar city were motivated by Hindi movies as source of information for fashion adoption, while for Gurgaon girls was Women’s magazine. Overall influence of media on fashion adoption among college girls were seen by Hindi movies as it got the 1st rank followed by pamphlet, woman magazine, T.V. serials. Advertisements which are on front pages of any magazines/newspaper etc. got the 1st rank followed by inclusion of celebrity prop up the fashion item. College going girls buy the fashion product which offer better quality in low price. Girls buy those fashion dresses which have good colour combination, durability, comfortable features. They purchased the garments when need arises followed by marriage in the family. Fixed price shops were highly preferred followed by super markets. Greater percentage of respondents considered cotton suits, denim jeans, hosiery tops as most preferred fabric/dress materials and feel comfortable, looking cool and attractive. Respondents preferred ready-made garments in casual, formal and party wear followed by tailor-made, self-made/ home-made and boutique –made. Girls were fascinated to take common fashion accessories with their clothing like ear-rings, belly, watches and handbags. Most of them adopted fashion after the adoption of few people. Overall impact of media on fashion adoption behavior was: clothing selection having 1st rank with 76.98%; followed by fashion adoption having 2nd rank with 66.66% and purchasing behavior having 3rd rank with 65.72%. The present investigation will be beneficial for planning marketing strategies. Media has great impact on the buying behavior of students which can help the producers in marketing their fashion products through effective media.ThesisItem Open Access Development of innovative quilt cover designs(CCSHAU, 2012) Nameeta; Rose, Neelam M.The present study was conducted to develop innovative quilt cover designs. To attain the specific objectives, 30 respondents were selected from I.C College of Home Science, CCS HAU, Hisar for selection of created designs and placements. For assessment of developed quilt covers and to explore existing usage and purchase practices, 30 consumers were purposively selected from I.C. College of Home Sciences and campus of HAU, Hisar. To know the existing practices followed for quilt covers regarding the types of quilt covers available in the market, types of quilt covers used, problems faced by the respondents with the readymade quilt covers, place of purchase, mode of procurement an interview schedule was prepared. Preferences of respondents were sought for fabric, colour of fabric, place, size, side for opening and fasteners, surface decoration techniques, colour of decoration etc. using self- structured preferential choice index. Ten designs for each four top preferred surface decoration technique i.e. appliqué work, patch work, fabric painting and stencil printing were created in CorelDRAW. From the total of forty designs, eight designs two for each preferred technique were selected for placement of designs. Eight selected designs with most preferred placement were used for development of quilt covers. A design catalogue comprising of created designs and their placements was prepared for documentation. Green coloured cotton fabric with light intensity and under side opening alongwith half of length with zipper was preferred for the development of quilt covers. Design 2, 10 for appliqué work, design 4, 7 for patch work, design 2, 7 for fabric painting and design 1, 10 for stencil printing were eight top preferred designs. Preferences of respondents for placements of selected designs were design 2 and 10 of appliqué work in placement I for front and placement III for back side respectively, design 4 and 7 of patchwork in placement II and I for front and placement II for back side respectively, design 2 and 7 of fabric painting in placement II for both front and back side respectively and design 1 and 10 of stencil printing in placement III and I for front side and placement III and I for back side respectively. The consumers have high opinion about the developed quilt covers in relation to surface decoration techniques, designing features, design innovation etc. The cost of the innovative quilt cover rated appropriate by the majority of the respondents.ThesisItem Open Access Microencapsulation of essential oil on cotton(CCSHAU, 2012) Bhatt, Latika; Saroj S. Jeet SinghThe study was conducted to standardize the process of microencapsulation and padding, to impart aesthetic and functional finish on cotton fabric. Microencapsulation is a technique to prepare microcapsules, small particles that contain an active agent or core- material surrounded by coating or shell of limited permeability and can be used to impart durable functional and aesthetic finish to textiles using essential oil as core material. Lemongrass oil was selected as the core material and complex coacervation technique was used for encapsulation. Ratios of gum, oil and gelatin, temperature and pH were standardized for the process of microencapsulation. The proportion of ingredients for padding bath i.e. microcapsule gel, binder and softener were also standardized along with MLR, curing time and temperature. Cotton fabric was padded with microcapsule gel using the optimized process and the washing durability and physical properties were tested. It was summarized that 2:1:4 ratio of gum, oil and gelatin , at a temperature of 50 with initial and final pH 4.5 and 9.5 respectively was optimized for microencapsulation process. The proportion of binder, softener and microcapsule gel was optimized at 15:1:50 with MLR 1:20 cured at at 80°C for 60 seconds. The samples retained aroma till 30 wash cycles and as the number of wash cycles increased the intensity of aroma decreased. The fabric count, fabric weight and fabric thickness of treated fabric increased hence flexural rigidity increased. Microencapsulation did not have any adverse effect on tensile strength and elongation.. Bending length of microencapsulated fabric increased but to an acceptable level. Microencapsulated fabrics will not only provide health benefits to the common masses but will also benefit the agriculture sector as it will ensure increased cultivation of aromatic plants and enhanced rate of essential oil extraction. Aroma finish will add value to cotton so the cultivation, production and export of cotton will also boost.ThesisItem Open Access Adaption of traditional motifs of Gujarat to digital embroidery(CCSHAU, 2015) Sapra, Kiran; Rose, Neelam M.Designing textile is an ancient craft in India which is one of the most demanding fields as it is full of scope of creativity. There is a great need to revive the traditional records of textiles by giving captivity grandeur to the Indian textile pieces by introducing innovative designs. Exploring new design elements from our rich cultural heritage is a step in this direction. Keeping in mind these points, the present study was conducted to adapt traditional Gujarat motifs on bed covers through digital embroidery technique. Traditional motifs of Kutch region of Gujarat were collected from secondary sources and classified into four categories i.e. geometrical, floral and foliage, animal and bird and boarder motifs. The collected motifs were shown to the experts to sought their preferences. Four top preferred motifs from each category were selected and thirty three designs were developed in CorelDRAW software using selected sixteen motifs. Five top preferred designs were selected for placements of designs on bed covers. The base colour and fabric for bed covers were selected as per preferences of experts. Twenty five developed design placements were again shown to the experts and one best design placement of each design was selected for development of colour ways. Three colour ways of selected five design placements were prepared and colour way that secured I st rank was selected for each design placement for development of bed covers through digital embroidery technique. The cost of each bed cover was determined by adding the cost of fabric, design punching, embroidery and finishing charges. The digital embroidered bed covers were evaluated for consumers acceptability on different parameters. Medium weight cotton fabric in beige colour with medium intensity was most preferred for bed covers. Sixteen motifs selected for design development out of eighty four motifs were motif no. 1, 7, 8 and 12 in geometrical category, motif no. 1, 11, 12 and 16 in floral and foliage category, motif no. 6, 10, 11 and 20 in animal and bird category and motif no. 8, 10, 15 and16 in boarder category. Design no. 7, 9, 11, 25 and 30 were five top preferred designs. Preferences of respondents for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design no.7, 9 and 30, placement I of design no. 11 and placement II of design no. 25. Colour ways preferred most by the respondents for embroidery were colour way III of design no. 7 and 11, colour way II of design no. 9 and colour way I of design no. 25 and 30. Five bed covers were developed through digital embroidery as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected designs. All the developed bed covers were found very appealing and accepted by consumers for suitability of digital embroidery technique in design development. The cost of the bed covers rated appropriate by half of respondents. Thus, traditional Gujarat motifs adapted for designing the bed covers using digital embroidery has broaden the design base for textile products.ThesisItem Open Access Adaptation of traditional painting motifs for Aari work(CCSHAU, 2015) Sodhi, Suman; Arya, NishaThe present study on ‘Adaptation of Traditional Painting Motifs for Aari Work’ was conducted to strengthen creativity by exploring the possibility of fusion of traditional painting motifs and Aari work with different fabric embellishment techniques. The concept behind the theme was to create new range of textile designs by maintaining the beauty and originality of traditional paintings as well as Aari work. In this study, two famous traditional Indian paintings that is Madhubani and Warli were selected keeping in mind their suitability to Aari work. Out of total eighty motifs which were collected through secondary sources, thirty motifs were selected by experts’ preferences for development of designs. Two designs for each selected motif of both the paintings were developed using CAD. Six designs i.e. 22a, 21b and 35a from Madhubani painting and 24b.10b and 9a were selected on the basis of experts’ preferences. Twenty four samples were prepared using three fabric embellishment techniques i.e. hand painting with Aari work, hand painting & patch with Aari work and stencil printing with Aari work and controlled sample of pure Aari work for Madhubani and Warli painting designs. The prepared samples were got assessed by the experts and consumers in overall appeal, cost acceptability and suitability of designs and techniques used. It was found that the respondents had very high opinion about the developed designs and techniques. The cost of prepared samples of Madhubani and Warli painting was highly acceptable by the majority of the respondents. The work done in the form of prepared samples was appreciated and preferred for application on wide range of articles. Thus, the motifs explored from Madhubani and Warli paintings were highly acceptable for product development as variety of designs can be created through the use of CAD technology. Fusion of traditional art forms with different techniques will help in making the designing cost effective while simultaneously being time and energy saving.ThesisItem Open Access Designing of trimmings using underutilized textile materials(CCSHAU, 2015) Sarita Devi; Vivek SinghThe present study was undertaken in Hisar district of Haryana state to develop trimmings using underutilized textile materials. Ten shopkeepers were selected for taking their preferences regarding existing trends of trimmings for apparel and thirty consumers visiting these shops were selected purposively for collecting information regarding usage pattern of trimmings. A total of thirty respondents fifteen each boutique owners and tailors, engaged in stitching of women wear with trimmings were selected from Hisar city to collect information regarding existing practices for use of underutilized textile materials .Underutilized textile materials were collected from boutique owners and tailors. Forty designs , twenty of each selected category of trimming were developed using Corel DRAW. These designs along with selected underutilized textile materials, designing techniques and embellishment materials were shown to the experts for their selection. The top eight ranked design of trimmings of each category i.e laces & borders and tassels were developed by the researcher using selected underutilized textile materials with selected designing techniques and surface embellishment materials. Hence, a total of sixteen trimmings i.e. eight laces & borders (four laces & four borders) and eight tassels were developed.The cost of design no. 7 of border was minimum (` 38.75) and of design no. 1 of border was highest (` 103.75). The cost of design no. 5, 17 and design no. 20 of tassels was minimum (` 28.75) and of design no. 10 was maximum (` 49.50). For assessment of the developed trimmings thirty college going girls of CCS.H.A.U, Hisar were asked to give their preferences and opinion regarding developed trimmings on various parameters. All designs of developed borders & laces were highly preferred by consumer except design no. 9 which was preferred design. First rank was given to design no. 4 of border on the basis of average mean score. The majority of consumers rated the cost of developed laces & borders as ‘appropriate’. The design no. 5, 10 & 12 of developed tassels were highly preferred design, while design no. 6, 15, 7 and 20 were preferred design of tassels. On the basis of average mean score design no 10 got 1 st rank and the least preferred design of tassel was design no.17.The majority of consumers rated the cost of developed tassels as ‘appropriate’. The developed trimming produced with underutilized textile materials are innovative have wide range of utility and overall, these are attractive in terms of design , designing technique and embellishment technique as consumers were strongly agreed with all the opinion statements related to innovativeness, utility and overall appearance with WMS ranging between 234-3.00. Thus, present study is an attempt to use underutilized textile materials in a creative way for making attractive trimmings as per market trends.ThesisItem Open Access Effect of sericin treatment on dyeability of cotton fabric using natural dye(CCSHAU, 2014) Bhandari, Babita; Saroj S. Jeet SinghThe present research was planned to study the effect of sericin treatment on dyeability of cotton fabric using a natural dye. To achieve the objectives proposed in the research plan, cotton fabric suitable for apparel use during summer season was selected, desized and scoured. Four easily available dyes i.e. Kachnar bark, Manjistha root, Neem leaves and Safflower flowers were tried for the study. Sericin treated fabrics were dyed with all four dyes using their standardized dyeing procedure which were taken from secondary sources. One natural dye was selected on the basis of effect of sericin treatment on maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness. Different variables i.e. sericin concentration, treatment temperature, treatment time, pH, material to liquor ratio (MLR), treatment stage, combination and concentrations of auxiliaries, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness for standardizing sericin application process. Sericin treated and untreated dyed fabrics were tested for colourfastness properties. L, a*, b* and K/S values of dyed fabrics were also compared. Effect of sericin treatment on change in physical properties regarding fabric count, thickness, weight, flexural rigidity, tensile strength, elongation, crease recovery, wettabiliy and air permeability were examined. Effect of sericin treatment and dyeing on ultraviolet protection property of cotton fabric was also investigated. Out of tried dyes manjistha was found to have maximum dye absorption after sericin treatment. Different variables i.e. 0.50 % sericin, 4 % crosslinking agent (citric acid), 1% catalyst (sodium hypophosphite), 45 minutes treatment time, 50°C treatment temperature, M:L ratio 1:30, pH 8, drying temperature 70°C, drying time 4 minutes, curing temperature 160°C and curing time 2 minutes were selected for sericin treatment on the basis of maximum percent dye absorption and wash fastness. It was found that the dye absorption of the treated fabric increased from 19.5 to 31.7 percent using optimized variables. Sericin treated dyed fabric also exhibited better colourfastness ratings as compared to untreated dyed fabric. Fabric treated with sericin was redder, yellower and brighter indicated by lower L* value and higher a*, b* and C* values. Fabric count, weight and thickness did not show any significant change however tensile strength, bending length, crease recovery and wettability increased by 8.5 3.1, 9.3 and 49.02 percent. Moreover, elongation and air permeability decreased by 8.3 and 10.35 percent upon sericin treatment. Ultraviolet protection factor of sericin treated cotton fabric increased to 22.39 from 14.25 of scoured cotton fabric. Manjistha dyed fabric exhibited very good UPF (32.6) whereas sericin treated dyed fabric offered excellent ultraviolet protection (48.4). Thus sericin treatment can be given to cotton fabric using natural dyes to improve dye uptake without affecting the hue and physical properties of the dyed fabric.ThesisItem Open Access Designing of protective accessories for adolescents(CCSHAU, 2014) Pinki kumari; Punia, ParveenFor protection of adolescent girls from skin allergies, sun burns on the uncovered body parts from harsh conditions present investigation on ‘Designing of protective accessories for adolescents’ was planned. To meet its objectives it was conducted in three phase. In phase-I i.e exploratory phase, ten shops were explored and Adolescent girls were interviewed. Full length gloves covering fingers (GCFf) of cotton hosiery material for summer season were available in majority of the shops. Cap, hat and scarf were available for covering of head; and head, face and neck. About 50% of the adolescents purchased and used full length gloves and majority of them used dupatta for head, face and neck covering in summer season as it was easily available at home without any additional cost. The problems encountered were: ‘less variety’ and ‘opening and slipping of dupatta when it was tied’. On the basis of preferences, identified protective accessories for designing were: full length gloves covering fingers and without covering fingers in cotton hosiery and cotton woven, hat in cotton crochet and cotton woven, cap in denim, capron in cotton woven, scarf mask in cotton woven, triangle mask in cotton woven and pleated mask in cotton woven In experimental phase, six designs were created for each selected article and one top most design i.e. ten protective accessories were developed to assess their suitability and acceptability. In the assessment phase, the development cost of both types of full length gloves without covering fingers made in cotton woven material were found appropriate. On the basis of utility parameters, full length gloves covering fingers (GCFf) made in combination of cotton woven and cotton hosiery, full length gloves covering fingers (GCFf) made in cotton hosiery, full length gloves without covering fingers (GWFf) made in cotton woven, full length gloves without coverings fingers (GWFf) made in cotton hosiery were found highly suitable. Hat in cotton crochet, cap in denim and capron, scarf mask, triagle mask, pleated mask all in cotton woven were assessed to be highly useful. The girls assessed that ‘designing technique and embellishment materials used to develop protective accessories made the articles unique, placement of designs and the color combination of enrichment material was attractive and suited to the developed accessories.ThesisItem Open Access Revival of Phulkari Embroidery for contemporary use(CCSHAU, 2013) Saini, Neelam; Khambra, KrishnaThe study was conducted for Revival of Phulkari EmbroideryDesignsfor contemporary useon kurti. Motifs of Phulkari embroidery were collected from Hisar and Patiala markets and categorized according to their categories i.e. geometrical, floral and animal. Maximum no. of motifs were used for contemporary use were geometrical, floral and animal, but human figure were less used. From collected motifs forty five motifs were selected. These were collected from secondary sources. Out of forty five motifs only fifteen were selected to developstylized designs for kurtis, each were converted into two designs. Then total thirty designs were developed with the help of Coral Draw. Five top ranked designs were selected. Three placements of each designs were developed. Then top five ranked placements of each selected designs was worked in Phulkari embroidery for making kurtis. Finally five kurtiswere developed. The opinion of experts was sought the most favourable about the developed designs, placements, size, shape, colour combination. Fifteen days training on Phulkari embroidery was imparted to the rural women of two villages of Hisar district and knowledge acquisition was studied regarding technique used which was found very effective as there was significant gain in knowledge on various aspects of Phulkari embroidery at 5 per cent and 1 per cent level of significance.