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University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad
The University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad was established on October 1, 1986.
The University has 5 Colleges, 27 Research Stations, 6 Agriculture Extension Education Centers, 6 Krishi Vigyan Kendras and ATIC. The University has its jurisdiction over 7 districts namely Bagalkot, Belgaum, Bijapur, Dharwad, Gadag, Haveri, and Uttar Kannada in northern Karnataka. Greater diversity exists in soil types, climate, topography cropping and farming situations. The jurisdiction includes dry-farming to heavy rainfall and irrigated area. Important crops of the region include sorghum, cotton, rice, pulses, chilli, sugarcane, groundnut, sunflower, wheat, safflower etc. The region is also known for many horticultural crops.
Considerable progress has been registered in the field of education, research and extension from this University.
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ThesisItem Open Access Quality Assessment of Digital Printed Cotton and Viscose Fabrics(University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad, 2015-08) Uppinal, Spoorti V.; Mahale, GeetaThe present study on “Quality assessment of digital printed cotton and viscose fabrics” was carried out during 2012-2015 with the objectives to study the potentiality of CAD applications on design outputs, to assess the quality characteristics and image quality of digital printed cotton and viscose fabrics and finally estimate the cost of digital printing on both fabrics. Two self structured questionnaires were formulated where the first was administered to the thirty textile experts to select the twenty images from the hundred images of the four categories of designs viz., Embroidery, Painting, Tie-dye and Woven images. The second questionnaire was administered to thirty textile experts to assess the image quality of the digital print on both fabrics by visual analysis method. Twenty selected images were scanned and details of image files were recorded for further printing process. Five different solid pantone colours were selected to assess physical and colourfastness properties. The results were analyzed applying suitable statistical tests. Results revealed that printing process enhanced the cloth count of both fabric samples. Irrespective of fibre content, type of printed colours maximum shrinkage observed in weft direction than warp. However, warp way GSM was maximum than weft way. The removal of pretreatment paste during printing processes influenced the stiffness of the both samples. Control fabric samples had lower crease recovery angle than the print colours. The results of colourfastness property revealed that higher number of washes affects the colour strength of the printed samples. The maximum loss in colour strength was observed in wet rubbing, alkali media perspiration and damp sublimation. Almost all viscose printed samples gave excellent ratings to colourfastness properties. In subjective evaluation highest preference given to lotus motif of both Kantha and Phulkari embroideries, Mughal and Madhubani paintings, pleating and spot dyeing, block and small checks weave. The cost of digital printed cotton fabric per square was Rs 141.4/- and viscose Rs 131.54/-.ThesisItem Open Access EFFECT OF SOFTENERS ON DECCANI WOOL BLANKET(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2015-06) MANJULATHA, C.; MAHALE, GEETAThe present investigation titled “Effect of softeners on Deccani wool blanket” was conducted at University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, Karnataka, during the year 2013 2015 with an objective to study the prevailing practices of wool processing in Northern Karnataka, to optimize a protocol for softener finishing of Deccani wool Blanket, to assess the quality parameters of processed Deccani wool Blanket and to estimate the cost of softener finished Deccani wool Blanket. A self structured schedule was administered for randomly selected 150 shepherds belonging to Medleri village, Ranebennur taluk, Haveri District, to collect the general information of the shepherds and to know the prevailing practices of wool processing. Pure Deccani woollen blanket woven by Medleri weavers was collected for the softening treatment. Based on ionic nature of the softener, three softeners i.e., cationic, non ionic and silicon were selected for the treatment. In order to optimize the pH, concentration, time, temperature for different softeners three replications with 81 combinations was carried out. The treatment procedure was optimized based on the highest value of tensile strength and GSM of the treated blanket sample. The Deccani wool blanket treated with optimized parameters were further assessed for its quality parameters and subjective evaluation of the samples was done by the textile experts. The cost of softener finished Deccani wool blanket was calculated. The data was analysed using frequencies, percentages, one way ANOVA and regression. Results revealed that performance properties of softener treated samples were improved and the highest was attained by silicon treated sample. The extensibility and TIV of the treated sample was increased while tensile strength and air permeability was decreased. Textile experts opined that the handle, appearance of the Deccani wool blanket was improved after softening treatment. The softening treatment was found to be economical and can be recommended to the shepherds.ThesisItem Open Access DESIGNING ADAPTIVE CLOTHING STYLES FOR VISUALLY IMPAIRED CHILDREN(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2014-11) LEELA N. WALMIKI; Dr. (Mrs.) JYOTI V. VASTRADThe study on ‘Designing adaptive clothing styles for visually impaired children’ was carried out during 2012-2014 at Dharwad, Belgum and Uttar Kannada Districts with the objectives: to study the clothing selection and laundering practices among blind adolescents, to identify the explicit recognition processes in identification of clothes, to assess the clothing problems of the blind adolescents, to design adaptive clothing with self-help features and to study the suitability and comfortability of the adaptive styles. The study comprised of two parts viz., survey method and experimental procedures. The primary data on clothing purchases and laundry practices was collected through survey method by interviewing 50 each visually impaired adolescent girl and boys using self structured interview schedules. In experimental procedure 5 adaptive clothing were designed for visually impaired adolescent girls for studying suitability and comfortability of the newly designed garment. The survey results revealed that, the visually impaired boys and girls were ‘always’ assisted by parents, teachers while purchasing clothes, boys ‘always’ purchased readymade garments and girls preferred tailor made garments. The visually impaired adolescents ‘always’ faced problem in selecting colour of the clothes followed by pattern. Colour identification, matching of upper and lower garments was the major problem reported by visually impaired adolescents. Majority of the girls always washed garments by themselves than the boys. Majority of the respondents opined that, Braille labels were highly suitable and functional followed by buttons, appliqué/patch work and bead work in identification of garment colour, style right/wrong and front/back of the garment. Among the garments, divided skirt and blouse, Kameez - salwar, and top wraparound skirt and leggings were found to be ‘highly acceptable’ adaptive garments.ThesisItem Open Access BLEND ANALYSIS OF TROUSER MATERIALS(University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, 2014-08) PARVEENKAUSAR M. L.; Dr. SADHANA D. KULLOLIThe present research on “Blend analysis of trouser materials” was carried out during the year 2012-14, with the objectives; to find out the varied trouser materials available in the market, to study the consumer preference for trouser materials, to analyze the blend proportion and to assess the performance characteristics of trouser materials. The study comprised of two parts viz., survey method and experimental procedure. Thirty each exclusive men trouser material shop owners and men respondents were interviewed using self structures questionnaire, to gather information about availability of trouser materials and to know the preference for type of trouser material, brand, blends, colour, frequency of purchase and the factors considered while purchasing trouser materials. In experimental procedure; most popular and preferred four blended trouser materials viz., polyviscose of 55:45 & 75:25 and terrywool of 55:45 & 75:25 were selected for the study and were subjected to 5, 10 and 15 washings. Further, the control and washed samples were assessed chemically for blend analysis using m- cresol, H2SO4 (70%), NaOH (5%) and sodium hypochlorite (4-6%); and tested for mechanical and physical properties (geometric, performance, durable and comfort properties). The data was analyzed with frequency, percentages, Z- test, two way ANOVA and t-test. The results revealed that, the polyviscose and terrywool blended trouser materials with varied blend proportions were available in majority of the shops while, majority of the respondents always preferred polyviscose and terrywool blended trouser materials. It was found that, there existed non-significant differences between washings and among the geometrical, performance, durable and comfort properties and significant difference was observed in abrasion resistance (cycles) before and after washings in all the samples.ThesisItem Open Access Designer's Khadi Kurtis for Young Adults(UAS, Dharwad, 2012) Karabhari Rekha Bhaskar; Sadhana D. KulloliThe study on Designer’s khadi kurtis for young adults was carried out during 2010-12 at Hubli-Dharwad corporation area with the objectives to find out the different styles of kurtis available in the market; to explore the possibilities of designing, product development and value addition of khadi kurtis for young adults and to know the acceptance and cost of production of designed khadi kurtis. The methodology involved survey and experimental procedures. Both traditional and professional college young adults were interviewed to collect the information on the different type of readymade garments, fibre content, styles of kurtis, value addition and kurti brands preferred by the young adults. On the basis of survey results, 50 styles of kurtis were designed for young adults by forecasting, mood board preparation, illustration, swatch and colour board, out of which 10 styles were selected for further construction (5 each for khadi cotton and khadi silk). Exhibition and fashion show was organized to know the acceptance for the khadi kurtis by young adults and textile experts. Both young adults and textile experts opined as excellent with respect to the concept of sweat pads and overall appearance of designer’s khadi kurtis. However, roll-up sleeve kurti and pleated yoke kurti were most accepted and preferred among khadi cotton kurti and shirring kurti among khadi silk kurtis. Most of the respondents opined all khadi silk kurtis as expensive and khadi cotton kurtis to be reasonable and affordable by all type of consumers. This study is further helpful in designing khadi kurtis for different age groups, region, religion, season, gender and special groups applying combination of elements and principles of design.ThesisItem Open Access Efficiency of Sizing Materials on Cottons(UAS, Dharwad, 2012) Achom Keinabati Devi; Shilaja D. NaikThe present study entitled “Efficiency of sizing materials on cottons” was carried out in 2010-12 at Dharwad with the objectives, to study the effect of sized and hand washing on physical parameters. The study consisted of survey and experimental procedure. On the basis of the survey results, two sizing materials one each from arrowroot and revive were selected for the present study. Cotton muslin suitable for sari having 70 ends x 60 picks per inch with 34.80 GSM was selected and starched separately with 10% concentration of each arrowroot and revive with 1:1 and 1:2 dilution levels and were assessed for various physical parameters. Further samples were hand washed to assess its impact on these physical parameters, visual appearance and tactile properties. There was increase in physical parameters when sized with both arrowroot and revive. The stiffness was greater at 1:1 dilution than 1:2 because of higher concentration of sizing solution that deposited mechanically on the fabric surface. The chromatic and geometric attributes improved when sized at 1:1 than 1:2 dilution. But there was no change in luster, cloudy appearance and visibility yarn directionality at 1:2 dilution because of low viscosity and starch strength. The fabric texture became rough, hard and crisp on sizing at 1:1 dilution level than 1:2. Greater patchy effect was observed with arrowroot than revive because of larger starch particles and viscosity. Improvements in physical parameters attained temporarily on sizing were lost some extent after first hand washing due to gradual softness and pliability imparted on partial desizing. The sized clothes can be used after one wash, a means to ‘cutting cost’ starching the clothes. The fabric expressed better stiffening properties at 1:1 dilution of arrowroot than revive 1:1 dilution and 1:2 dilutions.ThesisItem Open Access Extraction and Spinnabiity of Mesta (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Fibre(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) R. Dhanalaxmi Devi; Jyoti V. VastradThe present investigation entitled “Extraction and Spinnaiblity of Mesta (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Fibre” was carried out during 2009-2011. Mesta variety AS73 CP 560 grown in Institute of Organic Farming, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad was selected for the study. Fibres were extracted from stalks harvested at two different stages of plant growth using urea treatment and different steeping methods. Scoured, bleached and dyed mesta fibres were assessed for quality viz., length, fineness, strength and elongation, colour strength and colourfastness. Spinnability of the fibres in different blend proportions with cotton was studied and the yarn parameters were assessed. Results revealed that stalks harvested at physiological maturity stage processed by urea treatment and vertical-horizontal steeping produced higher fibre yields. Longitudinal structure of mesta fibres is striated, with nodes that are more clear and developed at physiological maturity stage. Cross section depicted the existence of a number of fibrils. Presence of lignin in the physiological matured stalks was noticed. Fibres extracted by vertical-horizontal steeping had less amount of waxes and gums as indicated by the cross sectional structure. There was a successive reduction of fibre quality on wet processing treatments. The physical characteristics of 80:20 cotton/mesta blended yarn were better than the 100 per cent organic cotton and 60:40 cotton/mesta blended yarns. Moreover, mesta fibres have added strength to cotton yarn and simultaneously decreased the elongation making the blend suitable for knits, curtains & draperies and other household textiles including table & kitchen linen. Addition of mesta fibres has also reduced the cost of production of pure cotton yarns. Expediting the usage of such minor fibres not only saves natural fibres for multiple applications but also ensures the availability of eco-friendly goods at nominal prices.ThesisItem Unknown Two Faced Outfits for School Going Girls(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) S. Mariyappanavar; Shailaja D.NaikClothing is an integral inseparable part of mankind that meets the basic necessity along with food and shelter and even denotes wealth, power, position and mode of adornment. Clothing has become a preferred means of individual expression and economic concerns, and it is within this context the researcher planned the concept of developing ‘Two faced outfits’ could be worn two ways. There is no true “inside out” to a reversible outfit, since either way it gives a fashionable appearance. Two faced outfits are been designed for the school going girls who are pretty fashion conscious, demand for new dresses during special occasions. Hence, the present study is taken up to design two faced outfits for school going girls and appraise the acceptance and calculate the cost of production of these designer’s outfits. The methodology consisted of survey and experimental procedures. Keeping in mind the colour preference by the school going girls mood, swatch, colour and illustration board were prepared prior to product development. Three sets of skirt – top on the basis of standard measurements developed were godet skirt – halter top, circular skirt – sling top and wrap around skirt – strap top. The cost of production was calculated and the acceptance for the outfits was assessed by four categories of respondents. The result revealed that irrespective of the categories of the respondents’, the most accepted designer’s two faced outfit was wrap around skirt – strap top, followed by circular skirt – sling top finally the godet skirt – halter top. These outfits provide greater scope for mix and match and pair off outfits that are remarkably cost effective. This study further throw light on designing reversible winter clothes for kids, special clothes for physically challenged, expectant and lactating mothers as well senior citizens; a trust area for apparel industry and a challenge for commercial production.ThesisItem Open Access Variegated Printing Media on Knitwear(UAS, Dharwad, 2011) Spoorti Uppinal; Shailaja D.NaikThe research was conducted during 2009-2011 with the objective to study the impact of laundering on physical parameters of five knit samples each printed with different media. The study consisted of survey and experimental procedure. Interview schedule was administered on thirty each working, nonworking mothers to elicit information on clothing preference, clothing purchasing practice and laundry practices; and readymade shop owners regarding fibre content, branded knitwear and embellishment techniques commonly adopted to knitwear viz., discharge, flock, foil, pigment and plastisol were chosen and subjected for fifteen hand washes by kneading and squeezing. After every fifth wash the samples were assessed for fabric count, thickness, weight, shrinkage and colour of wales and courses per inch, thickness (mm), weight (GSM) but reduction in colour strength of both printed and unprinted areas of all knit samples compared to their corresponding control values after fifth wash. All the knit samples attained dimensional stability before fifth wash. Flock print exhibited very poor colour strength (K/S) values, followed by pigment and plastisol. The percentage of slenderness of print area reflected poor strength, durability, quality and standard of the print media, print style and printing method. It is evident that flock printed knit sample was found to be very poor, since the flock was completely washed off and disappeared by fifteenth wash leaving a part of thickening agent which was held mechanically. Home laundering did affect the physical parameters of both unprinted and printed area of knit samples, as the composition of all the five print media was not similar. Hence, the level of impact of home laundering on physical parameters varied greatly.