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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × Author: Gayatri × End date: 2024 × Start date: 2020 × Type: Thesis × Thesis Type: Ph.D ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand and construction of designed khadi kurties
    (G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar - 263145 (Uttarakhand), 2021-07) Gayatri; Goel, Alka
    Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric. Thus, it’s known for its unique texture and comfortable feel. It is general observation that readymade khadi garments are unfashionable. Therefore, these are not preferred by young population for their own clothing. Moreover fitting of khadi garments is also not approved due to unavailability of size charts. Present study was carried out to develop size chart and design khadi kurties. In this study, three surveys were conducted, first one to collect information related to respondent’s awareness about khadi, buying practices and preferences for readymade kurties, second survey was to collect anthropometric measurements and third survey was to know consumers preference for readymade khadi kurties. Sample size for I and III survey was 100 and that of III survey was 1000. Respondents (21-31years) were selected from two geographical region viz., GBPUA&T, Pantnagar (1000 m. Above MSL) and DSB Campus, Kumaun University (1000-2500 m. Above MSL), Nainital of Uttarakhand. Anthropometric measurements were taken as per ISO 8559:1989 (En) standard. Size chart were developed based on anthropometric measurements and were compared with national and international brands. Second part of research was designing of kurties in which 32 kurties (16 A-line & 16 flared) were designed using different constructional features using Jindex CAD software. Designed kurties were evaluated by panel of judges and out of which 5 kurties each were selected based on average WMS. Block and machine embroidered motifs arrangements were done separately on selected kurties. Total 60 designs arrangements were developed which included 30 designs each for block and machine embroidery motif. Out of this, total 20 designs were selected for development on fabric. Out of 20 designs 5 designs each were of A-line kurti with block printing and machine embroidered and 5 designs each were of flared kurties with block printing and machine embroidery. Constructed designs were evaluated by target consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Obtained data was subjected to statistical analysis. Result of first survey indicates that respondents were aware about khadi but were not using it because lack of fit and trendy/ appealing designs. Size chart was developed by conducting an anthropometric survey as per ISO 8559: 1989 (en) of 1000 females (21-31 years) from two geographical regions of Uttarakhand i.e., hill (1000-2500 m. altitude) and foot hill or plain (below 1000 m. altitude) by equal stratified sampling technique. It was observed that all collected measurements were normally distributed in the second survey. Vertical and horizontal measurements showed positive correlation with height and weight. Variation in the maximum body measurements (cm) of females (21-31 years) of both regions was found to be highly significant means there is variation in body measurements of females living in two different geographical regions. Then, based on percentile approach, the size chart for females (21-31 years) of Uttarakhand was developed with the five size codes ‘S’, ‘M’, ‘L’, ‘XL’, and ‘XXL’. Taking the most preferred constructional feature of kurties obtained from III survey, designing and constructional of kurti was done. Designed and constructed kurties were well accepted and appreciated by target group and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels. Cost estimation was also accepted by the consumers and Shri Gandhi Ashram’s personnels.