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  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Study on performance appraisal of shawl units in Ludhiana
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Omika; Gandotra, Vandana
    The present investigation was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was formulated to collect the required information from the powerloom shawl weaving units regarding the infrastructure of the units. Data were collected with the help of pre structured interview schedule from 60 randomly selected powerloom shawl weaving units. The results of the study revealed that majority of units had made fixed capital investment of `40 lakhs to 60 lakhs and working capital investment between `20 lakhs to 40 lakhs to establish the unit. Majority of units had installed capacity of 10 to 30 power looms and 60 percent possessed semi computerized looms to prepare shawls. Majority of units used acrylic fiber as raw material for preparing shawls and they purchased the yarn from local market. Most of units had employed total number of 40 to 80 workers. All the units produced plain shawls and majority of units had annual production of plain shawls between `60,000-90,000. Majority of units were selling their products in the local market. Twenty five percent units had minimum annual sale up to `50 lakhs. Majority of respondents faced the problems related to shortage of skilled labour (weighted mean score 2.83), high price of raw material (weighted mean score 3.68), low profit margins (weighted mean score 6.50), lack of proper infrastructure (weighted mean score 4.50), lack of power supply (weighted mean score 1.83) and maintenance of looms (weighted mean score 1.16)
  • ThesisItemRestricted
    Online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2016) Ishneet Kaur; Grewal, Sumeet
    The present investigation was undertaken to study the online buying behaviour of college going students in Ludhiana city for apparel products. The present study was conducted in three different colleges of Ludhiana city. A sample size of 180 respondents comprising of thirty boys and thirty girls from each college were purposively selected. A Questionnaire was used for collecting data regarding their socio economic profile, online shopping experience and satisfaction from online buying. The results of the investigation were interpreted using percentages, mean scores, Z-tests and chi-square. Based on the results of the collected data, the most preferred apparel product for online shopping was footwear by the male and female respondents. Significant difference was observed for male and female respondents regarding amount of money spend on single purchase and brand preference. Male respondents tend to spend more amount of money for online buying than female respondents. Majority of female respondents visit retail stores before final purchase. Majority of female respondents discuss with their friends and family after receiving the product as compared to male respondents. The most preferred online shopping site by male and female respondents is flipkart.com and the most preferred feature of online shopping site is privacy and security. Significant association was found between annual household income and annual online buying, brand preference. There was significant association between age of the respondents and mode of payment and main barriers which affect frequent buying. Majority of male had high level of satisfaction. The female respondents had both high and medium level of satisfaction from online shopping.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Arpana; Mahajan, Surabhi
    The present investigation was undertaken to study the development of silk kurtis with tie and dye technique using natural dyes. Five natural dyes and two mordants were purposively selected. The study was conducted on the college going girls in three different colleges of Punjab Agricultural University. An interview schedule was used for collecting data from ninety respondents regarding their preferences for kurti styles, necklines, sleeves and length. The results were interpreted using simple percentages and average weighted mean scores. The results of the collected data revealed that most preferred kurti styles were Anarkali, A-line, Center cut, C-shaped hem, Straight and Paneled. Boat, crew and round shape were preferred necklines and majority of the respondents showed inclination for sleeveless kurtis which were below knees in length. Twenty five silk samples were produced with combinations of selected natural dyes and mordants using different tie and dye techniques according to optimum dyeing conditions referred from secondary sources. Out of these samples, fifteen were shortlisted by the Advisory Committee. These were taken in fill tool of Corel Draw to develop eighteen designs using the most preferred kurti style features. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges who shortlisted six designs which were constructed on 34" dress form standard measurements. The constructed kurtis were evaluated by a sub sample of forty-five respondents on the basis of overall appearance on a five point scale and were ranked excellent or very good. Hundred percent respondents liked the idea of natural dyed kurtis using tie and dye and majority of them considered the estimated price of the kurtis adequate and were ready to buy them.
  • ThesisItemRestricted
    Standardization of conditions for extraction of fibre from corn stover
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Garima Singh; Devinder Kaur
    Agriculture and textile have had a long standing relationship from ancient times. Maize is emerging as third most important crop after rice and wheat in India. Nowadays this crop is widely used for research purposes in textile to get fibre from its leftover stover. The present study deals with the various treatments given to the corn stover which includes retting of the corn stover, treatment of sodium hydroxide and xylanase enzyme. In this study the effect on physical and mechanical properties were observed and SEM of the corn stover fibre was also observed. The fibre retted for 15 days was having yield, i.e. 350 g/kg and was having good quality fibre as comparative to fibre retted for 10 and 20 days. It can be concluded that the corn stover retted for 15 days and the treatment given with 15.0gpl sodium hydroxide at 90°C for time duration of 90 min with pH7, can be recommended to treat corn stover fibre as it improves its physical properties, i.e. length (12.60 cm), crimp (0.32 %) and moisture content (0.31%) and mechanical properties, i.e. bundle strength (7.13 g/tex) and elongation (5.45%) which was maximum as comparative to the other treatment conditions. It was found that the optimized conditions for the application of xylanase enzyme on corn stover fibre were found 0.2 percent at 50°C for 30 min and pH7 which shows the best results on the physical properties, i.e. length (11.50 cm), crimp (0.53 %) and mechanical properties, i.e. bundle strength (8.11 g/tex) and elongation (6.33%) as comparative to the other treatment conditions. The SEM analysis of fibre shows that the fibre treated with sodium hydroxide was having diameter of 100 µm which was reduced after enzymatic treatment to 30 µm.
  • ThesisItemRestricted
    Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sharma, Anjali; Bains, Sandeep
    The present study entitled “Development of cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs” was carried out in Ludhiana city. Both the cotton fabric and pigment dyes were purchased from the local market of Ludhiana district. An attempt was aimed towards developing new designs for cotton kurtis using Madhubani motifs with pigment dyes utilizing hand painting technique. The researcher documented fifty motifs, sources of natural dyes used by traditional Madhubani painters and also studied the symbolism of Madhubani motifs. Twenty motifs were shortlisted and categorized into animal and bird motif, floral motif, tree of life motif, human motif and sun motif five categories by a panel of ten judges. One motif was selected and adapted from each category of motif for the development of twenty designs using with different colour combinations and placement. The developed designs were shown to a panel of ten judges and were asked to choose one best design for the development of final cotton kurtis. Five cotton kurtis were developed using selected five designs and placements with pigment dyes of red, green, yellow, blue, black, orange and skin colours. The colour fastness grades were evaluated for pigment dyes to various agencies including: washing, light, rubbing and perspiration. Pigment dye black and red shows excellent (5) grades for wash fastness and perspiration. Good (4) rubbing fastness grades and very good (6) light fastness grades were obtained by red and black pigment dyes. An inventory was prepared to record the views of thirty consumers. In this part the consumers preferred the Kurti K1with fish motif the most on the basis of design placement, colour combination and overall appearance. In the case of Kurti K1 the cost price was Rs 1125/- with profit margin 33.3 percent. Majority of the respondents (78.8%) reported that the quoted price was adequate for prepared cotton kurtis. The painting of kurtis can be promoted as an enterprise, where a painter can earn 30-40% profit.
  • ThesisItemRestricted
    Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Sood, Neha; Saini, Harminder Kaur
    The investigation entitled ‘Designing of upper garments for young women using draping technique’ was carried out in Ludhiana city. A market survey was done on 20 apparel stores to study prevailing market trends in different upper garments. An interview schedule was prepared for the purpose of collecting the data from 90 young women between the age group of 18-24 years, selected randomly from three colleges of Ludhiana city. The findings revealed that majority of the respondents were from the second year of graduation, belongs to nuclear family having urban background and had monthly family income ranged between Rs.40,00180,000. Blouson, capes, classic tops, tunics and shrugs were the five most preferred upper garments. Plain cotton fabric without design in black colour for upper garments was most preferred during summer and winter season. Among constructional features, respondents preferred half dart, circular flounce, gathers with elastic, flared peplum, knife pleats, patch pocket, gathered ruffle, pin tucks and straight yoke, respectively. Buttons were most preferred accessory in upper garments. Four designs each, for the five most preferred upper garments were developed through draping technique. Preferences regarding the twenty developed designs of upper garments were taken. Thus, top two ranked designs of five most preferred upper garments were selected for construction. Acceptability of prepared upper garments was evaluated on the basis of drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance. Majority of the respondents found design A2 of tunics, design B3 of classic tops, design C3 of blouson, design D1 of capes and design E4 of shrugs to be very good in drape, design, accessories/surface embellishments and overall appearance.
  • ThesisItemRestricted
    Development and application of flame retardant finish on cotton fabric for household use
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Rajni Kumari; Grewal, Sumeet
    The present study was conducted to develop a flame retardant finish for cotton casement and poplin fabrics and to develop textile products for household use, using the finished fabrics. To test the durability of the finish wash fastness was evaluated and to maintain the durability, a laundry procedure was optimised. The flame retardant finish was developed by using the chemical Tetrakis (hydroxymethyl) phophoniun chloride (THPC) along with citric acid as binder and sodium hypophosphite as catalyst. The optimisation of pH, concentration of binder, concentration of catalyst and concentration of THPC was done by testing the effects of the finish at different variables on physical properties- tensile strength, flexural rigidity, thickness, GSM and whiteness index. The flammability was tested using Vertical Flammability tester. The results showed that for casement fabric, pH 7, binder concentration 10%, 0.75% concentration of catalyst and 30% concentration of THPC were considered optimum. On the other hand for the poplin fabric pH 8, binder concentration 8%, 0.75% concentration of catalyst and 40% concentration of THPC were considered optimum. At these conditions tensile strength decreased and flexural rigidity increased but in permissible limits. It was found that the developed finish was semi-durable and would last for 15-20 washing cycles. The optimised laundry procedure suggested that the flame retardant casement and poplin fabrics should be washed with non-ionic detergent with 2gm/L concentration at 25oC temperature to maintain its durability till 15-20 home launderings. The flame retardant fabrics were used for making household textile products such as kitchen apron, mitten, napkins and curtain.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    Development of Rechargeable Thermo Jackets
    (Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, 2017) Chohan, Tanvir Kaur; Mahajan, Surabhi
    The present investigation was carried out for developing the rechargeable thermo jackets using heating gel packs. The principle and working of heating gel packs were reviewed from secondary sources. Ten gel pack manufacturing industries were surveyed for collecting information regarding fabricS used by them for manufacturing gel packs and it was found that PVC fabric and casement were most popularly used. Different combinations of selected fabrics were used to develop three cervical collars (as a technology miniature) and their heat retention was recorded. The collar made up of PVC fabric in outer layer and casement fabric in inner layer showed the maximum heat retention. Six experts including three orthopedicians and three physiotherapists were consulted for collecting information on upper quadrant pains commonly found amongst their patients. The collected data was used for creating two functional designs for thermo jackets. The better design of jacket according to experts was finally developed using suitable fabrics. Ten respondents (five male and five females) who were suffering from upper quadrant pains were selected purposively and an interview schedule was used to collect preliminary information about them. The respondents were given the jackets to use for five days after which impact of developed jacket was studied with the help of an evaluation performa. It was found that maximum of the respondents found jacket to be extremely comfortable. None of them faced any problem in heating and placing gel packs in jacket gloves and majority of them were relieved from their pain after using the jackets. The jacket was considered to be functionally as well as cost effective by majority of the respondents.
  • ThesisItemOpen Access
    DOCUMENTATION OF TRADITIONAL PARANDA AND NAALA IN THE MALWA REGION OF PUNJAB
    (PAU Ludhiana, 2011) Arsh Jyot Kaur; Kanwaljit Kaur, Brar
    The present study was undertaken to document traditional paranda, a hair accessory and naala, a woven tape for lower garment used by the rural women in the Malwa region of Punjab. Three surveys conducted from samples of 180 rural women who had worn parandas or woven naalas and 30 shopkeepers selling these products selected randomly from Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda districts of Malwa region, indicated a sharp decline in the practice of invaluable traditional crafts of paranda and naala in these regions. None of the respondents in a wide range of age (25-95 yrs) was found to be weaving naalas during these days. Besides, only 48.89 per cent respondents were wearing parandas. Arbi gatth and jalebi were named after the knots used in tassels; sheeshe wala, jhumki zari, gatta ghungroo and moti parandas were named after the embellishments used in tassels. Paranda making techniques were known to only 4.45 per cent respondents. The craft of dori making for paranda was mainly practised by female artisans who were paid only `25-50 per dozen doris, while male artisans were paid `150 for preparing tassels of 40 doris in Patiala city, a hub of cultural handicrafts. Regular naalas for salwars were made by using both loom and finger weaving techniques. Fancy naalas for ghagras were made by loom weaving technique only. Cotton, tussar or acrylic fibres were used for both type of naalas. Warping was done on peerhi, nails or adda and loom weaving was done by using adda or manja. No equipment was used for finger weaving. Round and square harrarh were most popular amongst others such as double square, jalebi, gol gand, karela and spring harrarh. Motifs like dabbiyaan and murabbebandi in loom woven naalas, and gutt, burfi, and machhi motif in finger woven naalas were made by all the respondents. The shopkeepers were selling both remix and machine made (tape and battiyaan wale) naalas in Ludhiana, Patiala and Bathinda city. One remix naala took 36 times lesser work hours for finishing it in comparison to hand woven naala. Changes in lifestyle, fashion trends, lack of time and women education were identified as the major factors responsible for not making parandas these days. Diversification of the crafts, publication of design books, preservation of the craft in museum, publicising the crafts through exhibitions and other media, inclusion of these crafts in the school curriculum, organisation of cultural fairs and competitions, development of clusters of textile handicrafts, special awards for young artisans, organization of trainings and strengthening of handicraft boards may help in reviving these crafts of Punjab for the posterity.