Loading...
Theses
Browse
2 results
Search Results
ThesisItem Open Access Development of Aroma Textiles using Essential Oils(CCSHAU, 2015) Poonam Kumari; Rose, Neelam M.The research was planned to study the effect of four essential oils on cotton fabrics applied through four treatment methods i.e. direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination. To achieve the objectives proposed in research plan, out of thirteen, four essential oils i.e. geranium, lime, palamarosa and peppermint were selected on the basis of preferences for aroma and therapeutic effects by 25 respondents for application on the selected woven and knitted cotton fabrics. Different treatment variables i.e. padding bath components, material to liquor ratio, treatment time, drying temperature and time, curing temperature and time were optimized on the basis of bending length, flexural rigidity and crease recovery. In microencapsulation and combination method, in addition to performance properties, presence of microcapsules and aroma durability to washing were also assessed. After application of essential oils using optimized conditions on both the fabrics, Scanning Electron Microscopic (SEM) analysis and aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity of aroma to washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying was done. Effect of aroma treatment on change in fabric properties regarding fabric count/stitch density, thickness, weight, bending length, flexural rigidity, crease recovery, bursting strength, air permeability, tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation were examined. Effect of aroma treatment on texture and whiteness was also investigated. Different variables of microencapsulation method for preparation of microcapsule gel i.e. ratio of oil: gum: gelatin 1:2:4 for lime, palmarosa and peppermint oil, 1:4:4 for geranium oil, at 50°C temperature, initial pH 4.5 and final pH 9.0 for geranium, lime and plamarosa oil, 4.0 and 10.0 for peppermint oil were optimized. Proportion of padding bath components were optimized as 50:3:15 microcapsule gel: softener: binder for microencapsulation, 6 percent citric acid for direct method, resin cross-linking agent i.e. BTCA 12 to13 g/l for woven and knitted fabric with proportion of 2 to 4 g/l sodium hypophosphite for resin cross-linking method. At MLR 1:20 with 30 minutes of treatment time, both the fabrics treated with all the four essential oils exhibited better performance properties. The drying temperature (80° and 90°C), duration (2, 3 and 4 minutes), curing temperature (110°C) and curing duration (30 and 60 seconds) were selected for treated fabric on the basis of improvement in the performance properties. Maximum aroma durability in terms of retention and intensity was observed in combination method followed by microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and direct method after washing, abrasion, ironing and sun-drying of aroma treated woven and knitted fabrics. Fabric count (woven), weight and thickness increased in both the fabrics treated with all the essential oils by all the treatment methods. Bending length and flexural rigidity were also found to be increased but at an acceptable level. Stitch density increased in knitted fabric treated with all the essential oils by microencapsulation and combination method whereas decreased in direct and resin cross-linking method. Crease recovery of all the treated fabrics decreased when aroma treatment was given by microencapsulation and direct method and increased in resin cross-linking and combination method. Air permeability and tearing strength of the woven and knitted fabric decreased however, tensile strength and elongation decreased in woven and bursting strength decreased in knitted fabric with all the essential oils by all the treatment method but to an acceptable level. Texture of both the fabrics was not affected much. There was not much difference in whiteness of both the fabrics treated with geranium and peppermint oil but samples treated by lime and palmarosa oil give some difference in whiteness as indicated by whiteness index values. It was concluded that all the four essential oils can be effectively used without affecting the comfort and performance of the treated fabric to give aroma treatment by direct, microencapsulation, resin cross-linking and combination method as per aroma durability requirement of end product.ThesisItem Open Access Adaptation and Application of Henna Motifs for Fabric Painting(CCSHAU, 2015) Diksha Rani; Rose, Neelam MIndia‘the land of culture and heritage’ is blessed with numerous arts and crafts and each one is famous for its uniqueness of motifs, designs, processing etc. Henna is one of the traditional artwork of India which reflects its culture and rich heritage through intricate designs. It is used for temporary body decoration and can be served as a great source of inspiration and ideas for creating new designs in the fashion world. Thus the present study was conducted to adapt and apply henna motifs on sari using fabric painting. The 186 traditional henna motifs were collected from secondary sources like books, journals, magazine and internet etc. and screened for their suitability to saris and fabric painting. The identified motifs were sketched manually and scanned from books, magazines etc. which were then created and refined in CorelDRAW X5 and Adobe Photoshop to get the required intricacy and fineness. The created motifs were categorized in four categories viz. floral and foliage, kunj/paisley, animal, bird and insect and human motifs and shown to the thirty experts to sought their preferences for selection of five top preferred motifs from each category. A total of fifty designs were developed in CorelDRAW X5 software using selected twenty motifs and got evaluated by a panel of thirty experts for selection of five top preferred designs for placement on saris. The base colour and fabric for saris were selected as per preferences of experts. Fifteen developed design placements were again shown to the experts and one best design placement of each selected five designs was selected for development of colour ways. Three colour ways for each selected five design placements were prepared and colour way that secured Ist rank was selected for development of saris through fabric painting using nozzle technique of henna application. The cost of each saris was determined by adding the cost of fabric, painting material, and labour involved in tracing, painting and finishing. The fabrics painted saris were assessed for consumers’ acceptability on different parameters. Organdie fabric in light yellow colour was most preferred for saris. Out of ninety six motifs, twenty motifs selected for design development were motif number 6, 10, 16, 17 and 22 in floral and foliage category, motif number 2, 8, 14, 18 and 23 in kunj/paisley category, motif number 9, 10, 15, 18 and 21 in animal, bird and insect category and motif number 10, 13, 15, 16 and 17 in human motifs category. The five top preferred designs were design number 4, 24, 31, 48 and 50. Preferences of experts for placement of selected five designs were placement III of design number 4, 31, 48 and 50 and placement I of design number 24. Most preferred colour ways for fabric painting as per experts’ choice were colour way III of design number 4 and 50, colour way II of design number 24 and colour way III of design number 31 and 48. Five saris were developed through fabric painting using nozzle technique of henna application as per preferred placements and colour ways of selected five designs. All the fabric painted saris were found very appealing and accepted by consumers on all the parameters of assessment. The cost of the saris was rated appropriate by all the consumers. Thus, traditional henna motifs adapted for development of designs for saris has broaden the design base for textile products and cater to the demands of high-end consumers through diversity of designs and unique technique of fabric painting..