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Subject: Clothing and Textiles × Author: Kholiya, Ruchi × End date: 2009 × Start date: 2003 ×
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    ThesisItemOpen Access
    Scouring of woollen fabric using enzymes
    (CCSHAU, 2006) Kholiya, Ruchi; Khambra, Krishna
    Wool is one of our most versatile fibre. It is such a complex blend of properties that modern science still cannot duplicate it or create a synthetic clone. Scouring through enzymes is a new concept in scouring of natural fibres with an enzyme-based formulation for efficient removal of natural impurities from wool without any fatal damage to the fibre. But recipe optimization, type and suitability of enzymes for different substrates still remain as potential domain for research. So the present study was undertaken under the objectives: to optimize the conditions for enzyme treatment of woollen fabric and to study the physical properties of the treated fabric. Two enzymes namely cellulase (palkosoft super 720) and protease (palkowool LPL) were used for enzyme treatment on pure grey woollen fabric, with different concentrations, time periods, pH and temperatures. Some of the basic fabric properties i.e. weight per unit area, tensile strength, and change in colour were measured for optimization of process conditions for enzymatic scouring. It was observed that with the increase in concentration and duration of enzyme treatment there was increase in weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. In case of pH and temperature there was less loss at higher pH and temperature. The optimum conditions for cellulase enzyme treatment were selected as 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes time at pH 7 and temperature 60oC whereas the optimum conditions selected for protease enzyme treatment were 0.5gpl concentration of enzyme for 30 minutes at pH 8 and temperature 70oC. The selection of conditions was carried out by the objective assessment of colour change, weight per unit area loss and tensile strength loss. Further physical properties of the optimized samples were measured by following standard procedure. The enzymatic scouring with cellulase and protease enzymes results in significant increase in fabric count, crease recovery angle, pilling resistance, abrasion resistance and colour change whereas non significant increase were found in bulk property after enzymatic treatment. Significant decreases were observed in weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp direction elongation of protease enzyme treated woollen fabric. After enzymatic treatment with both enzymes there were significant decrease in weft direction elongation, bending length, flexural rigidity, shrinkage and porosity. Non-significant decreases were observed in case of weight per unit area, tensile strength and warp wise elongation when woollen fabric was treated with cellulase enzymes. There was a non-significant decrease in thickness and drape coefficient after enzymatic scouring with both enzymes. So it is recommended that use of enzymes for the purpose of woollen scouring is more beneficial and eco friendly than conventional scouring of woollen fabric.